Fascia board install issue
Discussion
Hi,
Posted this on another forum for DIY'er but seeking input quickly lol.
I have currently got wood facia board that is grooved with a ply soffit in. I had a go capping my downstairs garage to learn all the requirements to cap/add soffit trim etc and that went ok, I just screwed the soffit on the lip of existing fascia and threw the capping over to support it.
I'm doing the roof now and the Original windows were replaced a while back that had different original frames and now they literally have zero gap available to put the fascia capping over the existing fascia wood board.
Key challenge is I've ordered all the fascia capping board, and before you say anything, I tested with a small bit of facia it on another upstairs window but that one for some reason was just about fine to get the fascia on the existing lip.
I don't want to get this existing plywood soffit out, it's laid along the brick line and im seeing this as causing more aggro with the brickwork.
Gone over this a few times and there is a 20MM between existing soffit line and the bottom of fascia, when the new Soffit is on that is 9MM, that leaves 10/11MM.
Fascia is 9mm thick, that would be to 11mm on front of fascia.
So to me this leaves 11mm to work with and remove to give room to the window frame if I'm correct.
Has anyone had a similar issue?
1. Cut just enough fascia board off the existing lip all the way along the 10M front/back with a jigsaw?
2. Use router to do the same?
Or is this whole plan doomed OR am I overthinking it.
Posted this on another forum for DIY'er but seeking input quickly lol.
I have currently got wood facia board that is grooved with a ply soffit in. I had a go capping my downstairs garage to learn all the requirements to cap/add soffit trim etc and that went ok, I just screwed the soffit on the lip of existing fascia and threw the capping over to support it.
I'm doing the roof now and the Original windows were replaced a while back that had different original frames and now they literally have zero gap available to put the fascia capping over the existing fascia wood board.
Key challenge is I've ordered all the fascia capping board, and before you say anything, I tested with a small bit of facia it on another upstairs window but that one for some reason was just about fine to get the fascia on the existing lip.
I don't want to get this existing plywood soffit out, it's laid along the brick line and im seeing this as causing more aggro with the brickwork.
Gone over this a few times and there is a 20MM between existing soffit line and the bottom of fascia, when the new Soffit is on that is 9MM, that leaves 10/11MM.
Fascia is 9mm thick, that would be to 11mm on front of fascia.
So to me this leaves 11mm to work with and remove to give room to the window frame if I'm correct.
Has anyone had a similar issue?
1. Cut just enough fascia board off the existing lip all the way along the 10M front/back with a jigsaw?
2. Use router to do the same?
Or is this whole plan doomed OR am I overthinking it.
Edited by fourstardan on Tuesday 19th August 09:14
I have had to cut all the way along the fascia. Made it straight with a makeshift guide (old bit of fascia cut off).
Good it's taken some time, based on only having a scaffold tower and ladder.
Hardest bit about this job is knowing what order to do things two steps ahead, e.g. I needed to take off the guttering to do the line so couldn't do soffits first, then test windows worked with soffit etc.
Good it's taken some time, based on only having a scaffold tower and ladder.
Hardest bit about this job is knowing what order to do things two steps ahead, e.g. I needed to take off the guttering to do the line so couldn't do soffits first, then test windows worked with soffit etc.
Just finished doing the front soffits/fascia/gutters.....on the ladder.
I'm awfully knackered but it was a bit addictive as you can see you can see the end of the job and it's easy to move the ladder about.
I've learnt a lot about learning what you need to do two steps ahead of the task your doing, you can see the end of the job and it's easy to move the ladder...I certainly won't need to do much gym work this week.
Working up on the ladder I bought a corner wall stand off to do the corner sections (godsend) and had a normal standoff with the ladder when I bought it. Tool access helped by clipping the drill on the standoff....tool bag round the ars cheeks....
Soffits seemed to consume the most time, cutting in the trim and then the corner sections.
5m of 9mm Fascia wasn't too bad to manuevere on, it held itself with two polypins put in, also I rested one end luckily on a middle window.
Only thing I've not done is eaves protectors....I think I'll maybe see about doing this next year.
I'm awfully knackered but it was a bit addictive as you can see you can see the end of the job and it's easy to move the ladder about.
I've learnt a lot about learning what you need to do two steps ahead of the task your doing, you can see the end of the job and it's easy to move the ladder...I certainly won't need to do much gym work this week.
Working up on the ladder I bought a corner wall stand off to do the corner sections (godsend) and had a normal standoff with the ladder when I bought it. Tool access helped by clipping the drill on the standoff....tool bag round the ars cheeks....
Soffits seemed to consume the most time, cutting in the trim and then the corner sections.
5m of 9mm Fascia wasn't too bad to manuevere on, it held itself with two polypins put in, also I rested one end luckily on a middle window.
Only thing I've not done is eaves protectors....I think I'll maybe see about doing this next year.
fourstardan said:
Just finished doing the front soffits/fascia/gutters.....on the ladder.
I'm awfully knackered but it was a bit addictive as you can see you can see the end of the job and it's easy to move the ladder about.
I've learnt a lot about learning what you need to do two steps ahead of the task your doing, you can see the end of the job and it's easy to move the ladder...I certainly won't need to do much gym work this week.
Working up on the ladder I bought a corner wall stand off to do the corner sections (godsend) and had a normal standoff with the ladder when I bought it. Tool access helped by clipping the drill on the standoff....tool bag round the ars cheeks....
Soffits seemed to consume the most time, cutting in the trim and then the corner sections.
5m of 9mm Fascia wasn't too bad to manuevere on, it held itself with two polypins put in, also I rested one end luckily on a middle window.
Only thing I've not done is eaves protectors....I think I'll maybe see about doing this next year.
Did you over board or rip everything offI'm awfully knackered but it was a bit addictive as you can see you can see the end of the job and it's easy to move the ladder about.
I've learnt a lot about learning what you need to do two steps ahead of the task your doing, you can see the end of the job and it's easy to move the ladder...I certainly won't need to do much gym work this week.
Working up on the ladder I bought a corner wall stand off to do the corner sections (godsend) and had a normal standoff with the ladder when I bought it. Tool access helped by clipping the drill on the standoff....tool bag round the ars cheeks....
Soffits seemed to consume the most time, cutting in the trim and then the corner sections.
5m of 9mm Fascia wasn't too bad to manuevere on, it held itself with two polypins put in, also I rested one end luckily on a middle window.
Only thing I've not done is eaves protectors....I think I'll maybe see about doing this next year.
Well done , doing fascia off ladders is not easy, ground floor is ok but second floor i rustle up some form of scaffold. It takes a lot longer but saves having to pay/ deal with scaffolders and then waiting 2 months for them to remove it ( and damage something in the process )..
Luckily our house is only 2 story on 1 side so a couple of towers and 2 hired youngmans did the trick.
Luckily our house is only 2 story on 1 side so a couple of towers and 2 hired youngmans did the trick.
Chumley.mouse said:
Well done , doing fascia off ladders is not easy, ground floor is ok but second floor i rustle up some form of scaffold. It takes a lot longer but saves having to pay/ deal with scaffolders and then waiting 2 months for them to remove it ( and damage something in the process )..
Luckily our house is only 2 story on 1 side so a couple of towers and 2 hired youngmans did the trick.
Loving that scaffold. Luckily our house is only 2 story on 1 side so a couple of towers and 2 hired youngmans did the trick.
Must admit, the scaff I've got is worth it, the ladder being there all the time alone makes it worthwhile.
I can't see it being less structurally sound than your make up there on one side as they had 700MM odd wide to get a section running 6 meter up.
It was the addition of knowing I can get the job done and see light at the end of the tunnel that made me do the front on the ladder.
I'm nearly done now, just need to sort one apex side of the house and then see how much I've got left to do the side of my garage (long saga I posted about elsewhere where the neighbour has built right up against my wall).
Funny though as he's got the same cowboys back today putting a wooden shed felted roof on TOP of a conservatory polytop roof. Absolute nuts...
Ok, so dodgy side that had bowed has just been done, wasn't a massive visible problem.
Only concern is how it shrinks/bows over the years, but that'll be someone else's problem I hope if we've moved lol.
Dark arts/Bodges include;
1. Sealant to secure the box ends gable fascia, sure this will be fine and worst case I can always do a pin one day if not. I thought it looked a bit strange having a nail in different order on the existing wood noggins to the others.
2. Sealant where I've missed a few mm of gap on the cuts, the soudal stuff is really a good match for Rosewood, it's high up and not in large quantity so not expecting any UV damage
3. Went for some reason through the fascia slightly on a pin, I sealed this section as it was on the gutter section so hidden.
4. Hard to explain this one, but my roof section (Mansard? ) for the first gable fascia I'd cut off I didn't realise what I needed to do was cut out a section and slide in around the around the straight fascia section where gutting goes to hide it. I'll have to find a way to tidy up the gable cut off as it's visible, maybe a bit of flat Box trim will work here
Other issue is a lovely polypin that has bent nearly in. Need to remove this seamlessness and ring shanked are a frigging nightmare. Hole punch and a tack puller ordered to tackle this bit.
Biggest nightmare was the scaffolders had to scaffold right unto the box end so after about 1082 different methods to get the fascia on I managed to get it on.
Overall have I saved money? Yes I think so, I've done this over a few months at my pace around the weather and learnt a new skill along the way. Total cost comes in at about 2.5k ish where I was getting quotes to do this at 5/7k lol. Biggest cost has been the scaffolding/tower and I've bought some new toys for the job that'll last.
Only concern is how it shrinks/bows over the years, but that'll be someone else's problem I hope if we've moved lol.
Dark arts/Bodges include;
1. Sealant to secure the box ends gable fascia, sure this will be fine and worst case I can always do a pin one day if not. I thought it looked a bit strange having a nail in different order on the existing wood noggins to the others.
2. Sealant where I've missed a few mm of gap on the cuts, the soudal stuff is really a good match for Rosewood, it's high up and not in large quantity so not expecting any UV damage
3. Went for some reason through the fascia slightly on a pin, I sealed this section as it was on the gutter section so hidden.
4. Hard to explain this one, but my roof section (Mansard? ) for the first gable fascia I'd cut off I didn't realise what I needed to do was cut out a section and slide in around the around the straight fascia section where gutting goes to hide it. I'll have to find a way to tidy up the gable cut off as it's visible, maybe a bit of flat Box trim will work here
Other issue is a lovely polypin that has bent nearly in. Need to remove this seamlessness and ring shanked are a frigging nightmare. Hole punch and a tack puller ordered to tackle this bit.
Biggest nightmare was the scaffolders had to scaffold right unto the box end so after about 1082 different methods to get the fascia on I managed to get it on.
Overall have I saved money? Yes I think so, I've done this over a few months at my pace around the weather and learnt a new skill along the way. Total cost comes in at about 2.5k ish where I was getting quotes to do this at 5/7k lol. Biggest cost has been the scaffolding/tower and I've bought some new toys for the job that'll last.
Sounds like you have done very well, most people wont go up a ladder never mind tackle a job like that.
Like you say ,you have learnt new skills which then you can transfer to other jobs/projects in the future
I find the worst part about doing any job is relying on others , in your case scaffolders , the more you can do yourself the less hassle thongs are.
When using the ring shanked polypins I always pilot hole them ( big ones and little ones). So they hammer in a lot easier and also go in straight. Theres nothing worst than trying to get one back out knot or it going in wonky .
As long as no water can get behind the capping then you wont have any problems,
That looks like a healthy saving too. ….. if you had paid for it to be done, yes it would have been done a lot quicker but would it have been done better ? If your happy with what you have done then the answer is no.
Again well done.
Like you say ,you have learnt new skills which then you can transfer to other jobs/projects in the future
I find the worst part about doing any job is relying on others , in your case scaffolders , the more you can do yourself the less hassle thongs are.
When using the ring shanked polypins I always pilot hole them ( big ones and little ones). So they hammer in a lot easier and also go in straight. Theres nothing worst than trying to get one back out knot or it going in wonky .
As long as no water can get behind the capping then you wont have any problems,
That looks like a healthy saving too. ….. if you had paid for it to be done, yes it would have been done a lot quicker but would it have been done better ? If your happy with what you have done then the answer is no.
Again well done.
Chumley.mouse said:
Sounds like you have done very well, most people wont go up a ladder never mind tackle a job like that.
Like you say ,you have learnt new skills which then you can transfer to other jobs/projects in the future
I find the worst part about doing any job is relying on others , in your case scaffolders , the more you can do yourself the less hassle thongs are.
When using the ring shanked polypins I always pilot hole them ( big ones and little ones). So they hammer in a lot easier and also go in straight. Theres nothing worst than trying to get one back out knot or it going in wonky .
As long as no water can get behind the capping then you wont have any problems,
That looks like a healthy saving too. .. if you had paid for it to be done, yes it would have been done a lot quicker but would it have been done better ? If your happy with what you have done then the answer is no.
Again well done.
Scaffs came and removed last week, I had a tile on the garage cracked before but noticed another one cracked as well near a support section, luckily we had some tiles kicking about from the build 20 years ago in the garden so they got replaced. I'm sure a local "tradesman" would had charged 100 quid for that on a punt job!Like you say ,you have learnt new skills which then you can transfer to other jobs/projects in the future
I find the worst part about doing any job is relying on others , in your case scaffolders , the more you can do yourself the less hassle thongs are.
When using the ring shanked polypins I always pilot hole them ( big ones and little ones). So they hammer in a lot easier and also go in straight. Theres nothing worst than trying to get one back out knot or it going in wonky .
As long as no water can get behind the capping then you wont have any problems,
That looks like a healthy saving too. .. if you had paid for it to be done, yes it would have been done a lot quicker but would it have been done better ? If your happy with what you have done then the answer is no.
Again well done.
I have been noticing a few problems on my work, hard to explain but I didn't run guttering that flows down to the roofline via the tiles down long enough so it was leaking over the verge slightly, easily fixable.
Another thing is I've screwed the soffits in under the gable/barge ends and notice them when directly underneath, I've bought some caps so will see if that sorts this bit, it's only noticeable by me as I know it's there but will finish a job off.
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