1998 Volvo T5 2.3 cylinder putting after head gasket failure
1998 Volvo T5 2.3 cylinder putting after head gasket failure
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Discussion

rezaq

Original Poster:

96 posts

229 months

Hi all,

My classic Volvo had failed its head gasket 10 years or so ago with its previous owner. I purchased the car as a renovation project.

Finally, I pulled the head this month. Cylinder 2 and 3 had suffered with some water ingress and lots of staining.

I spent 4 hours cleaning the cylinders with scotchbrite and engine oil. They are now 95% cleaner, but I have noticed a ridge line on cylinder two where water had been sat.

Can’t keep chucking money at this. I have a new head and hardware to fit.

What are my options? My mechanic said potentially ball hone in in situ taking care to mask up piston etc, and then just build it. States he has seen a lot worse which functioned fine with no compression loss or smoke.

Or, I can use some emery paper with engine oil to clean up as best I can and just sent it.

Vehicle is on 220k, and I have seen it running when I first purchased it, incidentally with no smoke. They’re very robust these old 5 cylinder engines.

Really appreciate your thoughts. She’s not getting strip down/rebuild. I’m happy to build it for my leisure but without spending too much more due to the significant amount of money already invested (wasted).

Cheers

Edited by rezaq on Sunday 24th August 22:25

rezaq

Original Poster:

96 posts

229 months

rezaq said:
Hi all,

My classic Volvo had failed its head gasket 10 years or so ago with its previous owner. I purchased the car as a renovation project.

Finally, I pulled the head this month. Cylinder 2 and 3 had suffered with some water ingress and lots of staining. Pitting is evident on cylinder 2, about 2 inches or so down from the top of the cylinder.

I spent 4 hours cleaning the cylinders with scotchbrite and engine oil. They are now 95% cleaner, but I have noticed a ridge line on cylinder two where water had been sat.

Can’t keep chucking money at this. I have a new head and hardware to fit.

What are my options? My mechanic said potentially ball hone in in situ taking care to mask up piston etc, and then just build it. States he has seen a lot worse which functioned fine with no compression loss or smoke.

Or, I can use some emery paper with engine oil to clean up as best I can and just sent it.

Vehicle is on 220k, and I have seen it running when I first purchased it, incidentally with no smoke. They’re very robust these old 5 cylinder engines.

Really appreciate your thoughts. She’s not getting strip down/rebuild. I’m happy to build it for my leisure but without spending too much more due to the significant amount of money already invested (wasted).

Cheers

Edited by rezaq on Sunday 24th August 22:25

GreenV8S

30,929 posts

300 months

Staining on the bore will sort itself out once the engine is running, or you could try the techniques the mechanic has suggested if it concerns you. The pitting looks like more of a problem - can't imagine that's going to help ring life or sealing ability. But if you aren't willing to strip it down to repair the bore then your options are to put it back together and see what happens, or don't.

E-bmw

11,220 posts

168 months

^^^^ Wot 'e said.

As above, the pitting is going to be your bigger issue.

If you do hone in situ & rebuild I would guess that you will then find all has been in vain.

The engines may be robust, but the laws of physics still apply to the ring/bore interface and I don't think it will work as is.

To me the answer to your conundrum lies in the answer to how much you are invested in the project & how much do you want to get out of it?

If you want a running/driving car that you can use then you need to go further.

If you want to give it a shot, then hone & put it back together but spend nothing else until you have had it together & running for a few hours as it may well all be a waste of time/money.

stevieturbo

17,806 posts

263 months

A simple 3 legged hone will go down further than a ball hone, as the ball hone has part that extends down low simply from how they are made.

Is any such "fix" ideal ? no

But it will still run fine, maybe burn a little oil. But really the right fix would be a full rebore and new pistons.

So a simple cheap "fix" given the circumstances would be well worth a try just to get it running. I've seen engines run well with far far far worse water/bore damage that for the most part ran very well aside from high oil consumption.
But they weren't even smokey

Give it a go

paul_c123

1,063 posts

9 months

The problem will be getting it through emissions for an MoT. For this reason, I'd not be spending any more time/money on this block.

rezaq

Original Poster:

96 posts

229 months

Thanks, all. I’m £6k deep into this car. My mistake, rebuilding all other parts of it before tackling the engine!

I spoke to another mechanic friend, said he’s seen and let out a lot worse that ran well without smoke etc, and with pitting further up the cylinder.

Not sure what to do. Chance my new head, gaskets, injector seals, cam/crank sensors, PCV box etc and fire it up, or break the car…

Pulled the intake hose off to check the turbo, was greeted by oil (some is expected) but too much common shaft play for my liking. So it looks like she will want a new turbo as well….

Edited by rezaq on Monday 25th August 20:55

Belle427

10,779 posts

249 months

Yesterday (07:33)
quotequote all
I would just build it and run it, if you do decide to move it on at least its a running and driving car.

RustyNissanPrairie

288 posts

11 months

Yesterday (07:40)
quotequote all
Can you source another engine? It surely couldn't be any worse condition than the current engine

paul_c123

1,063 posts

9 months

Yesterday (08:49)
quotequote all
There's a lot of sense in getting another secondhand engine, one that has been running recently. Then giving that a top end rebuild, since you already have all the parts to do it. Then put that in. The bottom end of an engine tends to last longer (well, older ones.....maybe not a Puretech or Ecoboost) but at >100k a top end rebuild will help - valve stem seals and just cleaning the carbon off, mainly.