Fisher fury, impulse buy 2.0
Discussion
I'm sure quite a few of you have seen my other fury thread over the last couple of years.
Other thread
if youve been folling that thread you will no i have a Honda S2000 F20 and gearbox sat at work i was planning to fit to the Lampredi powered car.
on Saturday i spend my day nipping to Kent, to pick up another unfinished rolling chassis and body.
its a much later car with the lemans bonnet arguably not quite as pretty. but crucially has more space under it.
being a later live axle chassis it has some nicer bits on, its got more strengthening, and the solid adjustable control arms instead of the escort ones my car uses.
also its already setup for a biasing pedal box.
today ive pulled the crossflow, be the fasted engine out in history probably took longer to get the gantry out the yard.
its on a 711 1600 from a mk2 escort if any one wants it let me know it spins that's everything i know about it.
I'm super excited to get on with it. and ill be getting into it in the next month or so. as there is going to be quite abit of cutting and shoehorning to get the S2K box in the tunnel.
there is a type 9 to f20 bell housing available but i don't think even the v6 type 9s are going to be up to 250+ bhp and 9k+ rpm . it would need to be a Quaife dog box or maybe there's some Caterham ones that could work?
maybe some of PH's infante wisdom could confirm my thoughts as the gearbox is the sticking point.
Zephyr Speedshop said:
there is a type 9 to f20 bell housing available but i don't think even the v6 type 9s are going to be up to 250+ bhp and 9k+ rpm . it would need to be a Quaife dog box or maybe there's some Caterham ones that could work?
maybe some of PH's infante wisdom could confirm my thoughts as the gearbox is the sticking point.
Ford Capri V6 (Essex): 174 lb ft @ 3000rpm
The main issue for gearboxes is torque, so I'd have thought one that can handle the Essex should be happy behind an F20.
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&... has a post from anonymous-user which looks informative (who was probably Max Torque)
samoht said:
Zephyr Speedshop said:
there is a type 9 to f20 bell housing available but i don't think even the v6 type 9s are going to be up to 250+ bhp and 9k+ rpm . it would need to be a Quaife dog box or maybe there's some Caterham ones that could work?
maybe some of PH's infante wisdom could confirm my thoughts as the gearbox is the sticking point.
Ford Capri V6 (Essex): 174 lb ft @ 3000rpm
The main issue for gearboxes is torque, so I'd have thought one that can handle the Essex should be happy behind an F20.
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&... has a post from anonymous-user which looks informative (who was probably Max Torque)
The Supra W58 box that I am rebuilding for my Fury has much better ratio spacing than the W55 that I currently have in the 7, the gap between 2nd & 3rd is not ideal with 2nd and as a result 1st being a bit too low.
As for space for the Honda box, I have offset the Honda K20 and W58 box a bit to the left in the Fury to provide a bit better weight distribution and also maintain driver side footwell space
Edited by suthol on Thursday 11th September 01:07
samoht said:
Zephyr Speedshop said:
there is a type 9 to f20 bell housing available but i don't think even the v6 type 9s are going to be up to 250+ bhp and 9k+ rpm . it would need to be a Quaife dog box or maybe there's some Caterham ones that could work?
maybe some of PH's infante wisdom could confirm my thoughts as the gearbox is the sticking point.
Ford Capri V6 (Essex): 174 lb ft @ 3000rpm
The main issue for gearboxes is torque, so I'd have thought one that can handle the Essex should be happy behind an F20.
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&... has a post from anonymous-user which looks informative (who was probably Max Torque)
the post is interesting though as id not considered a trans cooler. thanks for that.
' High power = heat, so on a low torque engine you can still put a lot of power through a gearbox, assuming that you remove the heat. (heat = oil degredation (and reduced film thickness) = accelerated tooth and bearing wear). Fitting an oil cooling system (elec pump + cooler) to a transmission will enable it to take a huge power increase without failure.'
suthol said:
It would be interesting to see how the ratios stack up for a the F20 box as opposed to the V6 box.
The Supra W58 box that I am rebuilding for my Fury has much better ratio spacing than the W55 that I currently have in the 7, the gap between 2nd & 3rd is not ideal with 2nd and as a result 1st being a bit too low.
As for space for the Honda box, I have offset the Honda K20 and W58 box a bit to the left in the Fury to provide a bit better weight distribution and also maintain driver side footwell space
this is my exact plan, in fact the chassis is already setup like this to a degree. my plan is the same as yours to push it into the pas foot well, help with balance as 80% of the time om flying solo, and on track the only time ill push ill be solo. The Supra W58 box that I am rebuilding for my Fury has much better ratio spacing than the W55 that I currently have in the 7, the gap between 2nd & 3rd is not ideal with 2nd and as a result 1st being a bit too low.
As for space for the Honda box, I have offset the Honda K20 and W58 box a bit to the left in the Fury to provide a bit better weight distribution and also maintain driver side footwell space
Edited by suthol on Thursday 11th September 01:07
also i have very wide size 12 feet so space in the pedal box is crucial for me. the other car is not set up well for me but i need my converse or race shoes on to be able to drive it. (look like a right bellend at the pub in my race shoes
)this is why i want to use the s2k box, the ratios should be good for the f20, mine is an ap2. interestingly. the same 4.1 fd ratio gives me very simaler speeds at the limiter in each gear as the other car but with the benerfit of 6th.
Net Ratios AP1/AP2
1st- 3.634/3.785
2nd- 2.372/2.470
3rd- 1.718/1.789
4th- 1.347/1.402
5th- 1.126/1.139
6th- .941/ .922
B'stard Child said:
Excellent been waiting for a link to this thread in the old thread 
shalmaneser said:
excited to see how this goes!
Cambs_Stuart said:
This looks like the beginnings of another great thread. Really enjoyed reading about the other Fury!
thanks guys, going to do abit more fettling this afternoon i think. need to get the f20 stripped down ready to test. and get the tunnel sides and pas floor off the chassis.
looks like its been tiger sealed so migh be a job
Zephyr Speedshop said:
Yazza54 said:
Aren't you tempted to put a classic bonnet on like your blue fury? I always thought the lemans was fugly
I am, like yourself I prefer the classic bonnet. However the lemans bonnet is taller. Which will help accommodate the honda lump. 
https://raceenginedesign.co.uk/honda-s2000-f20c-dr...
TGCOTF-dewey said:
Zephyr Speedshop said:
Yazza54 said:
Aren't you tempted to put a classic bonnet on like your blue fury? I always thought the lemans was fugly
I am, like yourself I prefer the classic bonnet. However the lemans bonnet is taller. Which will help accommodate the honda lump. https://raceenginedesign.co.uk/honda-s2000-f20c-dr...
, there is a budget, unless i won the euro millions last night. to be fair the dry sump dosnt net very much because the gear box is just as low. as the sump
ok so were a week into this, and i made some ground up today.
the stupid time scale I've set myself is i want every thing dry fitted and made in the next couple of months so i can get the chassis powder coated .and back home before Christmas. then the build can really start
first task was to clean the filthy, engine.
first round of degreaser and jetwash .
waiting for the oven cleaner to do its magic.
much better,
got the engine torn down i did try it with the inlet manifold on but was having non of it. if i had a helper i could have put it in from the top. but it actually worked really well dropping the frame over it. as i could see what needed to be cut.
then i got the death wheel out
fit isn't the word is use but it is in there. im actually pretty impressed i need to do some better maths on the ground clearance, but i think its actually pretty good. well similar to the other car. and the engine is about the hight of the bonnet. at the back the front will probably touch though.
the prop angles are pretty good to. this is the angle of the rear end.
thats as the engine as it sits. so that is pretty good as is. i think om over thinking this any way as the 'factory' engine mounts for the crossflow put it at a slight angle to the rear end left to right. my logic is the closer i can get it the better.
as you can see the chassis kicks off to the pass side. so i think i might push my output flange to the pas side more although thats more prop deflection the UJs will be nearer the same angles. o i might just be over thinking it as its constantly moving up down and left right with suspension travel .
my plan is to cut this tube out as well so that i can push the engine back more i think i can get another 50mm at least.
good job i dont often have a passenger
this thing is going to be off its chops !!!
the stupid time scale I've set myself is i want every thing dry fitted and made in the next couple of months so i can get the chassis powder coated .and back home before Christmas. then the build can really start
first task was to clean the filthy, engine.
first round of degreaser and jetwash .
waiting for the oven cleaner to do its magic.
much better,
got the engine torn down i did try it with the inlet manifold on but was having non of it. if i had a helper i could have put it in from the top. but it actually worked really well dropping the frame over it. as i could see what needed to be cut.
then i got the death wheel out
fit isn't the word is use
but it is in there. im actually pretty impressed i need to do some better maths on the ground clearance, but i think its actually pretty good. well similar to the other car. and the engine is about the hight of the bonnet. at the back the front will probably touch though. the prop angles are pretty good to. this is the angle of the rear end.
thats as the engine as it sits. so that is pretty good as is. i think om over thinking this any way as the 'factory' engine mounts for the crossflow put it at a slight angle to the rear end left to right. my logic is the closer i can get it the better.
as you can see the chassis kicks off to the pass side. so i think i might push my output flange to the pas side more although thats more prop deflection the UJs will be nearer the same angles. o i might just be over thinking it as its constantly moving up down and left right with suspension travel .
my plan is to cut this tube out as well so that i can push the engine back more i think i can get another 50mm at least.
good job i dont often have a passenger
this thing is going to be off its chops !!!
As mentioned on the other thread I messaged about this but wanted to do a deal with it minus the engine and gearbox but don't think they were interested in that.
I'd have put a 1.5 mx5 engine and gearbox in as I thought 130bhp or 150bhp with a remap would be sufficient especailly as the mx5 can nudge 50mpg and is twice the weight. Dimensions for the ND gearbox are hard to find. I know the NA/B box fits these but the NC doesn't.
The old school bonnet looks nicer but would keep whatever fits easier. Lemans is better than vents and random bulges.
Anyway bought a Spire GTR project with a ZZR1100 engine this week and will start that on December but progress will be slow.
I'd have put a 1.5 mx5 engine and gearbox in as I thought 130bhp or 150bhp with a remap would be sufficient especailly as the mx5 can nudge 50mpg and is twice the weight. Dimensions for the ND gearbox are hard to find. I know the NA/B box fits these but the NC doesn't.
The old school bonnet looks nicer but would keep whatever fits easier. Lemans is better than vents and random bulges.
Anyway bought a Spire GTR project with a ZZR1100 engine this week and will start that on December but progress will be slow.
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