Jag XF Sportbrake
Discussion
Currently looking at estates around £5k and like the look of these, can find some just in budget but they are all just over 100k miles most with full history.
Im looking at the 2.2d as I have read some horror stories on the 3.0 even though I see a lot of them with high mileage on.
Anything to look out for with them?
https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202509206...
Im looking at the 2.2d as I have read some horror stories on the 3.0 even though I see a lot of them with high mileage on.
Anything to look out for with them?
https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202509206...
2.2 is the better engine of the lot. 3.0 is the next best, 2.0 has got a bad rep.
Did 25k in a 2012 one. Was great, Loved the space and over a long drive felt great getting out. I loved the look of it too.
Grab that bargain!
I get the feeling most like to bad mouth Jag & Land rovers these days. I've been in a JLR for 5 years now, Remember when something fails it will be a costly part to put in. It's an expensive car to start with so a part will cost more than the part in a Ford focus.
JLR parts and dealers are crap though, but with this price of a car it's not like you will be using them though.
Did 25k in a 2012 one. Was great, Loved the space and over a long drive felt great getting out. I loved the look of it too.
Grab that bargain!
I get the feeling most like to bad mouth Jag & Land rovers these days. I've been in a JLR for 5 years now, Remember when something fails it will be a costly part to put in. It's an expensive car to start with so a part will cost more than the part in a Ford focus.
JLR parts and dealers are crap though, but with this price of a car it's not like you will be using them though.
I have a 2014 saloon (2.2D). I've covered about 80k miles in it - now at just over 140k.
Engine/gearbox mine has been great but I mainly do long journeys so haven't suffered DPF issues.
Biggest pain are the door locks/window actuators. Central locking motors can/do fail (I believe they are a Volvo part) so make sure all the doors actually lock and unlock. Not too difficult to replace and cheap - if you DIY takes a couple of hours.
Also window regulators like to snap the cable - check they operate smoothly. Again couple of hours work and quite cheap to buy a cable but a hassle none the less.
Overall I like it - tech is dated but given mine is probably worth £2.5k - £3k now I've decided to keep running it until it fails as it is still quiet comfortable etc.
Engine/gearbox mine has been great but I mainly do long journeys so haven't suffered DPF issues.
Biggest pain are the door locks/window actuators. Central locking motors can/do fail (I believe they are a Volvo part) so make sure all the doors actually lock and unlock. Not too difficult to replace and cheap - if you DIY takes a couple of hours.
Also window regulators like to snap the cable - check they operate smoothly. Again couple of hours work and quite cheap to buy a cable but a hassle none the less.
Overall I like it - tech is dated but given mine is probably worth £2.5k - £3k now I've decided to keep running it until it fails as it is still quiet comfortable etc.
Decent cars for what is little £ nowadays.
I used to work for a Jag specialist so have been exposed to many over the years.
As a previous poster suggests - door locks should be seen as a consumable, not expensive both in terms of part cost or labour to fit.
All the usual mechanical wear & tear items can be sourced from a motor factor, ebay, autodoc etc.
Check tailgate lamp functions on the estate as it's not unknown that the wiring can chaff where it meets the body.
I'd look for a Premium Lux or Portfolio trim level - much better overall spec but specifically better seats with more adjustment and memory function over the Luxury or R-Sport.
Worth popping some new Xenon headlamp bulbs in also, they were not very good when new and now at over 10yrs old are particularly poor.
I used to work for a Jag specialist so have been exposed to many over the years.
As a previous poster suggests - door locks should be seen as a consumable, not expensive both in terms of part cost or labour to fit.
All the usual mechanical wear & tear items can be sourced from a motor factor, ebay, autodoc etc.
Check tailgate lamp functions on the estate as it's not unknown that the wiring can chaff where it meets the body.
I'd look for a Premium Lux or Portfolio trim level - much better overall spec but specifically better seats with more adjustment and memory function over the Luxury or R-Sport.
Worth popping some new Xenon headlamp bulbs in also, they were not very good when new and now at over 10yrs old are particularly poor.
Belle427 said:
Currently looking at estates around £5k and like the look of these, can find some just in budget but they are all just over 100k miles most with full history.
Im looking at the 2.2d as I have read some horror stories on the 3.0 even though I see a lot of them with high mileage on.
Anything to look out for with them?
https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202509206...
The internet loves a horror story! Im looking at the 2.2d as I have read some horror stories on the 3.0 even though I see a lot of them with high mileage on.
Anything to look out for with them?
https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202509206...

My girlfriend bought a 120k 3L, ran it for 12 months, and sold it (to buy one of the later model 2L diesels that everyone tells you to avoid ...

They're old, executive cars, made with slightly dodgy QA standards. Personally I don't see how having one engine over another is going to drastically alter your risk profile. If you can't work on it yourself then any XF has the potential to throw a chunky bill at you at any moment. However, just because it can ... doesn't mean that it will. Unfortunately the internet is not full of people saying "Another day driving to work without my car breaking down", and so the negative stories do get amplified out of proportion. So you're more likely to be regaling us with a negative story than if you'd bought the equivalent 5 Series or A6 ... but that doesn't mean that it's odds-on likely to happen.
In my opinion, the 4 cylinder feels pretty gutless (I've only driven the 2L in the later model) and I much preferred the drive of the 3L. So that'd swing me over any slight changes in the % chances of having a problem.
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