Lighting for car pictures
Author
Discussion

poj

Original Poster:

810 posts

206 months

Monday 29th September
quotequote all
With the darker nights heading rapidly towards us I am looking for advice/suggestions on the following
I need to take pictures of cars that i will be selling on autotrader etc.
Not really able to get the pictures done during the day.
I was thinking about whether there was an option for some cordless LED work lights on tripods.
I have been using a Canon D70 but recently bought a Sony ZV-1 and havent picked up the Canon since.

Any advice would be great.
Thank you.

Mogul

3,038 posts

241 months

Monday 29th September
quotequote all
It's only Monday, but the weekend will soon be upon us!

If you have a tripod and can set a reasonably high ISO and long exposure, you could get by with almost any available light, plus a bit of boost from any old torch, including your phone.

Simpo Two

89,970 posts

283 months

Monday 29th September
quotequote all
I tend to agree. Point light sources in low light will just give you horrible highlights and not show the shape of the car very well.

StevieBee

14,461 posts

273 months

Tuesday 30th September
quotequote all
poj said:
I was thinking about whether there was an option for some cordless LED work lights on tripods.
If you go that route, you'll need to defuse the light or bounce it off something otherwise you'll end up with ugly bright squares of light reflecting off the body work.

The tripod - high-iso solution would be your best bet.

But as you're taking photos for ads to sell cars, surely it would take no longer than a tea-break to grab what you need?

Russet Grange

2,336 posts

44 months

Tuesday 30th September
quotequote all
Not sure why people are saying high iso in addition to using a tripod. Stick your camera on a tripod and you should be able to keep ISO pretty low.

StevieBee

14,461 posts

273 months

Wednesday 1st October
quotequote all
Russet Grange said:
Not sure why people are saying high iso in addition to using a tripod. Stick your camera on a tripod and you should be able to keep ISO pretty low.
That is true to a degree but is dependant upon the amount of light available and where that light is coming from. The risk of low ISO exposure is that you get some of the car nicely exposed but some it underexposed or not exposed at all. This can look very nice in some contexts but probably not what the OP wants. Higher ISO provides a bit more latitude and is simple way to get the shot and denoising in camera or in post is pretty good these days.

OP, another option is HDR. Your camera should have a setting that takes a quick series of photos (between 3 and 6) each at different exposure levels. Using Photoshop, Lightroom or similar you then merge these into one shot with the software taking the best of each to create a perfectly exposed shot.

Fordo

1,565 posts

242 months

Wednesday 1st October
quotequote all

I've lit cars a fair few times for work - mainly in studios

- As others have mentioned, small LED sources wont really help you all that much. Cars as the most difficult things to light, they are shiny, and have multiple surfaces and angles everywhere. Just pointing a small light at it, you'll just see the light reflected in the paintwork. Generally, you want enormous soft light sources, in studios we either bounce powerful lights off white walls, and use giant overhead softboxes, larger than the car. So when you do get the reflections in the paintwork, they are huge even shapes, that dont really look light lights anymore. Really the overhead softbox is to replicate the soft light from a cloudy day, or the soft blue skylight of the real world. So, id suggest:

- Time of day is your friend. This time of year, a cloudy day around midday, is a great time to shoot cars. The entire sky is one big softbox. But bare in mind cars are basically mirrors - so finding a location that'll give you natural reflections in the bodywork, is best. If you park up outside an NCP car park, you'll see their yellow signange in the paintwork.

- Sunny day, position car so it's backlight by the sun, always looks more flattering. Id say avoid midday top down sun, but sun is reasonably low most of the time now. But better light can be had at the beginning and ends of the day. By backlighting the car, it means the side you are shooting from will all be lit by the blue of the sky, which like a cloudy day, is itself, one big softlight, horizon to horizon.

- Need to photograph after dark? - multistory car parks, tend to have rows and rows of florescent tubes. Not ideal, and you will see them reflected in the paintwork. But enough of them and a light coloured grey concrete ceiling too, and they start to become kind of one big lighting source. And when you do get the tubes refelcetd in the bodywork, they dont look too awful as they fit the scene in which the car is in.

As you are selling cars, is there a space you can dedicate to photography of the vehicles? I've seen a few places that have a corner, setup with white walls, and some kind of big overhead softbox with some decent tubes behind.




andrewcliffe

1,384 posts

242 months

Wednesday 1st October
quotequote all
You could use a couple of the Godox AD series of wireless flashes, but you'll need a camera with some manual controls and a wireless trigger. You've then got to have a number of softboxes and other lighting modifiers to be able to adjust the lighting to a desirable setting.

Done well, you could end up with some striking photographs which could become a signature style - I can recognise a car being sold by KGF just from the photograph.


poj

Original Poster:

810 posts

206 months

Wednesday 1st October
quotequote all
Thank you all for the advice. I will have a go with the Sony and get some practice in with altered ISO settings.
Being a bit lazy i'm currently using it in full auto mode with the defocus button pressed but finding the results to be average.

Russet Grange

2,336 posts

44 months

Sunday 5th October
quotequote all
StevieBee said:
Russet Grange said:
Not sure why people are saying high iso in addition to using a tripod. Stick your camera on a tripod and you should be able to keep ISO pretty low.
That is true to a degree but is dependant upon the amount of light available and where that light is coming from. The risk of low ISO exposure is that you get some of the car nicely exposed but some it underexposed or not exposed at all. This can look very nice in some contexts but probably not what the OP wants. Higher ISO provides a bit more latitude and is simple way to get the shot and denoising in camera or in post is pretty good these days.

OP, another option is HDR. Your camera should have a setting that takes a quick series of photos (between 3 and 6) each at different exposure levels. Using Photoshop, Lightroom or similar you then merge these into one shot with the software taking the best of each to create a perfectly exposed shot.
No I don't understand. ISO 10,000 and a 1/25th second exposure allows for the same amount of light to hit the sensor as ISO 100 at a 4s exposure. With everything static and constant light, why would you not go for the lowest ISO?

Obviously this assumes no flash is being used.

StevieBee

14,461 posts

273 months

Monday 6th October
quotequote all
Russet Grange said:
StevieBee said:
Russet Grange said:
Not sure why people are saying high iso in addition to using a tripod. Stick your camera on a tripod and you should be able to keep ISO pretty low.
That is true to a degree but is dependant upon the amount of light available and where that light is coming from. The risk of low ISO exposure is that you get some of the car nicely exposed but some it underexposed or not exposed at all. This can look very nice in some contexts but probably not what the OP wants. Higher ISO provides a bit more latitude and is simple way to get the shot and denoising in camera or in post is pretty good these days.

OP, another option is HDR. Your camera should have a setting that takes a quick series of photos (between 3 and 6) each at different exposure levels. Using Photoshop, Lightroom or similar you then merge these into one shot with the software taking the best of each to create a perfectly exposed shot.
No I don't understand. ISO 10,000 and a 1/25th second exposure allows for the same amount of light to hit the sensor as ISO 100 at a 4s exposure. With everything static and constant light, why would you not go for the lowest ISO?

Obviously this assumes no flash is being used.
Depending on the lighting conditions, a lower ISO and longer shutter speed could work OK. But, you need a fairly even lighting because with a lower ISO setting, the shadows may be too dark so you could end up with areas that are not exposed. A higher ISO eliminates this but of course the trade off is brighter highlights than is ideal but so long as you're not clipping, a higher ISO will give you far more latitude in Lightroom or similar.

At the end of the day, it all comes down to trial and error.





Byker28i

79,293 posts

235 months

Monday 6th October
quotequote all
Part of the fun is experimenting

These were three flashguns, softened with a roll of backing paper held with bamboo stakes driven in, and the flash guns behind.






This was on the brick paving of the close. I had to pus a black binbag over the yellow street light, then two softened flashguns on a stand.


Or find somewhere lit and work with it

geeks

10,713 posts

157 months

Monday 6th October
quotequote all
poj said:
With the darker nights heading rapidly towards us I am looking for advice/suggestions on the following
I need to take pictures of cars that i will be selling on autotrader etc.
Not really able to get the pictures done during the day.
I was thinking about whether there was an option for some cordless LED work lights on tripods.
I have been using a Canon D70 but recently bought a Sony ZV-1 and havent picked up the Canon since.

Any advice would be great.
Thank you.
Nearest multistorey carpark, almost always pretty well lit and will work well to take the pics you need!

Byker28i

79,293 posts

235 months

Monday 6th October
quotequote all
Anywhere with a suitable light source.