Pax wardrobe levelling and build in when walls and floor out
Discussion
I am currently trying to fit a corner pax wardrobe. Having got the frames up, I realise both my walls and floor are seriously out of true (1930s place so kinda to be expected!)
Now trying to work out how to level it up. It’s a corner unit so somewhat a 3D problem. Was planning to put a frame under although only got about 6cm spare before I hit the ceiling!
Wondering if anyone had a methodology to follow to get it reasonably level and true?
Now trying to work out how to level it up. It’s a corner unit so somewhat a 3D problem. Was planning to put a frame under although only got about 6cm spare before I hit the ceiling!
Wondering if anyone had a methodology to follow to get it reasonably level and true?
I'm doing the same right now as it happens.
B&Q have stud timber super cheap, so I have this like a ladder under each wardrobe, they're 38mm thick. Window packers to level them, then fix them with angle brackets as screwing through them will bend the wood unless you go crazy with the packers.
Then I've gunned low expansion foam in the gaps to give support across the whole timber, though normal foam will be fine too. Level it front and back as well.
B&Q have stud timber super cheap, so I have this like a ladder under each wardrobe, they're 38mm thick. Window packers to level them, then fix them with angle brackets as screwing through them will bend the wood unless you go crazy with the packers.
Then I've gunned low expansion foam in the gaps to give support across the whole timber, though normal foam will be fine too. Level it front and back as well.
Pheo said:
I am currently trying to fit a corner pax wardrobe. Having got the frames up, I realise both my walls and floor are seriously out of true (1930s place so kinda to be expected!)
Now trying to work out how to level it up. It s a corner unit so somewhat a 3D problem. Was planning to put a frame under although only got about 6cm spare before I hit the ceiling!
Wondering if anyone had a methodology to follow to get it reasonably level and true?
Cutting a sheet of 18mm board to mirror the footprint of the cupboard and then setting that level on the floor is the first step (bare in mind that if you follow step 2 then its dimensions need to take that element into account). That gets the unit vertical and if lucky much of the level in board gets hidden by the carpet/flooring. Now trying to work out how to level it up. It s a corner unit so somewhat a 3D problem. Was planning to put a frame under although only got about 6cm spare before I hit the ceiling!
Wondering if anyone had a methodology to follow to get it reasonably level and true?
The second step is dealing with the wonky walls. If the unit can go in flush and the gaps really aren't that bad then a bit of foam and then flexible filler can work but if the walls are completely on the piss the. You need to consider a timber filet. Set the unit off the corner to leave a sufficient gap either side for timber filets to be cut and fitted.
This is a pax system I put across the back wall of the study. Both walls were on he piss so timbers were scribed and screwed to the wall. The base, as it was ground floor was levelled using a self levelling compound base.
I may soon have to build one of these corner units in. my son's room. Space will be tight, can they be built vertically as opposed to laid on the floor and then tipped up?
Even if the walls and floor are true, the skirting will produce a gap between the unit and the wall, which I will have to decide to live with, or fill.
Even if the walls and floor are true, the skirting will produce a gap between the unit and the wall, which I will have to decide to live with, or fill.
The Gauge said:
I may soon have to build one of these corner units in. my son's room. Space will be tight, can they be built vertically as opposed to laid on the floor and then tipped up?
Even if the walls and floor are true, the skirting will produce a gap between the unit and the wall, which I will have to decide to live with, or fill.
Yes, start with a side panel, then add the two base plinths and base before attaching the second side panel. With the cam lock screws tightened the sides will sway, but fine. You then add the top panel. Once one unit is assembled you can clamp the next side panel to that for extra support when assembling Even if the walls and floor are true, the skirting will produce a gap between the unit and the wall, which I will have to decide to live with, or fill.
Ok so job is now done so updating the thread for the record with some tips:
Step 1 buy a house with a level floor 😂
I didn’t have room to build up a base without risking the doors fouling the ceiling (didn’t want to presume the ceiling will be level because it won’t be! Lath and plaster..). One unit was out 1.5cm over a meter side to side.
So I took the largest corner unit (1m long) and decided that would be the datum / “straight” unit. I then set this until I was happy with it. I shimmed up the bottom using 11mm OSB and 6mm ply at one end due to it being 1.5cm out as mentioned. I then used window packets of varying thicknesses along the kick board length just to ensure it anyone stands on it it doesn’t immediately give way. Not strictly needed as all the weight is through the side panels but to prevent damage.
I then dry fitted the corner return units to get the right place to cut the skirting, and did that. Always fun getting the original 1930s stuff off with its clout nails, on lime backing plaster, but this time I got lucky and it did no damage to wall nor skirting (I hid the off cut behind the corner unit in the 10cm you need to leave, so that if I ever want to reinstate it’ll be easier!
I then attached the side “corner extension” unit to that one. They come with metal plates and some pre-drilled locators so after fitting it had pulled the units together. I shimmed the front of the corner return unit because of the drop off horizontally of the other unit.
Then just fit the next unit along. At this point I then took those two units and anchored them to the wall with 10mm Rawlplug bolt fixings. These are man enough to allow me to use them to pull the units up straight, and then I used fillets of ply and packets as needed on the fronts. I made sure to shim the end panels the most given they’re taking the weight. Due to needing to leave a gap on the return corner I didn’t attach this to the wall but it’s well restrained by the existence of the other two, so not a concern in terms of tipping risk.
Once this was done it was all standard install of the other bits. Which takes ages but is easy. I think ideal would be to install a base and level that but as mentioned I didn’t really have the spare height. Overall not too bad though. Took the best part of a Sunday.
Walls are wavy (1930s hand plastered!) so I will get cutmy to make me up some custom end panels in MDF, and then I will scribe them to the walls. This will also neaten up the finish, and as I’ve gone for the grey interior (which looks boss), it’ll mean it’s less overbearing in the room.
Step 1 buy a house with a level floor 😂
I didn’t have room to build up a base without risking the doors fouling the ceiling (didn’t want to presume the ceiling will be level because it won’t be! Lath and plaster..). One unit was out 1.5cm over a meter side to side.
So I took the largest corner unit (1m long) and decided that would be the datum / “straight” unit. I then set this until I was happy with it. I shimmed up the bottom using 11mm OSB and 6mm ply at one end due to it being 1.5cm out as mentioned. I then used window packets of varying thicknesses along the kick board length just to ensure it anyone stands on it it doesn’t immediately give way. Not strictly needed as all the weight is through the side panels but to prevent damage.
I then dry fitted the corner return units to get the right place to cut the skirting, and did that. Always fun getting the original 1930s stuff off with its clout nails, on lime backing plaster, but this time I got lucky and it did no damage to wall nor skirting (I hid the off cut behind the corner unit in the 10cm you need to leave, so that if I ever want to reinstate it’ll be easier!
I then attached the side “corner extension” unit to that one. They come with metal plates and some pre-drilled locators so after fitting it had pulled the units together. I shimmed the front of the corner return unit because of the drop off horizontally of the other unit.
Then just fit the next unit along. At this point I then took those two units and anchored them to the wall with 10mm Rawlplug bolt fixings. These are man enough to allow me to use them to pull the units up straight, and then I used fillets of ply and packets as needed on the fronts. I made sure to shim the end panels the most given they’re taking the weight. Due to needing to leave a gap on the return corner I didn’t attach this to the wall but it’s well restrained by the existence of the other two, so not a concern in terms of tipping risk.
Once this was done it was all standard install of the other bits. Which takes ages but is easy. I think ideal would be to install a base and level that but as mentioned I didn’t really have the spare height. Overall not too bad though. Took the best part of a Sunday.
Walls are wavy (1930s hand plastered!) so I will get cutmy to make me up some custom end panels in MDF, and then I will scribe them to the walls. This will also neaten up the finish, and as I’ve gone for the grey interior (which looks boss), it’ll mean it’s less overbearing in the room.
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