i'm looking to buy a E46 320CI SE. What to look out for?
Discussion
i'm looking to buy a manual E46 320CI SE as my second car (21yo, I've got insurance quotes for £700, 330CIs are too expensive).
What tips do you guys have - what should I look out for?
Whats better - the pre facelift or facelift?
Should I expect to set aside a few hundred pounds a year for repairs?
Thanks
What tips do you guys have - what should I look out for?
Whats better - the pre facelift or facelift?
Should I expect to set aside a few hundred pounds a year for repairs?
Thanks
https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202509106... - what do you think of this car?
Would a 325i be insurable? Just wondering as the other running costs are the same for 320, 325 and 330 as they have the same engine, just in different sizes.
I don't think the facelift was much different, but I'd definitely look out for a Sport model for the M-Sport seats.
They are prone to rust especially on the wheel-arches. Front is less of a problem as the wings are bolted on.
Oil leaks from the cam-cover and oil filter housing are common as the gaskets get brittle over time.
Cooling systems often need a refresh as radiators bow at the bottom and expansion tanks crack.
You are likely to need a few hundred a year for repairs. I bought an E46 325ti in December 2014 on just 80K miles and in 2015 it needed a cooling system refresh that cost over £400, then a new high pressure PAS hose in 2016 that cost over £300 - both jobs done by a good BMW Indy.
But the upside is you are unlikely to suffer depreciation and a 6 cylinder RWD car is a pretty rare thing!
I don't think the facelift was much different, but I'd definitely look out for a Sport model for the M-Sport seats.
They are prone to rust especially on the wheel-arches. Front is less of a problem as the wings are bolted on.
Oil leaks from the cam-cover and oil filter housing are common as the gaskets get brittle over time.
Cooling systems often need a refresh as radiators bow at the bottom and expansion tanks crack.
You are likely to need a few hundred a year for repairs. I bought an E46 325ti in December 2014 on just 80K miles and in 2015 it needed a cooling system refresh that cost over £400, then a new high pressure PAS hose in 2016 that cost over £300 - both jobs done by a good BMW Indy.
But the upside is you are unlikely to suffer depreciation and a 6 cylinder RWD car is a pretty rare thing!
nsx-type-r said:
Also - is there anything in particular I should look out for on higher mileage examples (120k)?
The engine has a timing chain. Look/listen carefully for any chain rattle or engine misfire. Replacement somewhere over 100,000 miles isn't at all unusual although it's quite complicated, and hence a costly, job. Quite possibly £1,000 and up.Unless there's service history showing a gearbox oil change I'd be doing that for peace of mind. Possibly diff as well.
nsx-type-r said:
Thank you Mr Tidy.
Insurance on a 325i is possible, 330is are too expensive to buy.
Is a 325i more likely to go wrong?
That's good news, as buyers of the bigger engined ones tend to tick more boxes on the options list! Insurance on a 325i is possible, 330is are too expensive to buy.
Is a 325i more likely to go wrong?
Running costs and reliability are the same for all of them as they have the same engine, just in different sizes.
From what I have read it's M3s that frequently suffer from boot floor cracking, although I believe it can afflict 330Cis. Possibly because they are more likely to be driven harder?
ETA I haven't read of any timing chain issues on the M54 engine, and a chain is one of the benefits of BMWs - none of those expensive belt replacements to budget for.
You're unlikely to find one that has had fresh transmission fluid in its' history as according to BMW the Gearbox was "sealed for life". I've had it refreshed on my higher mileage BMWs anyway. Same is true for the differential, and IIRC they don't have a drain plug so if you want to refresh the fluid it needs to be siphoned out.
Edited by Mr Tidy on Sunday 12th October 19:46
Panamax said:
The engine has a timing chain. Look/listen carefully for any chain rattle or engine misfire. Replacement somewhere over 100,000 miles isn't at all unusual although it's quite complicated, and hence a costly, job. Quite possibly £1,000 and up.
Unless there's service history showing a gearbox oil change I'd be doing that for peace of mind. Possibly diff as well.
Ignore this. No problems with M54 timing chains. Rust is the E46 killer.Unless there's service history showing a gearbox oil change I'd be doing that for peace of mind. Possibly diff as well.
deeen said:
Having owned a 330 I'd say rust, cooling system and cracked alloys!
Not sure about cracked springs on these, maybe that was more E36? And a BMW mechanic told me the boot floor issue was more on cars with an lsd, so 320 / 325 should be fine.
Have definitely seen cracked rear springs on E46s, but also on a wide variety of other cars. It's a cheap/easy fix, so i wouldn't consider it a major factor in choosing one.Not sure about cracked springs on these, maybe that was more E36? And a BMW mechanic told me the boot floor issue was more on cars with an lsd, so 320 / 325 should be fine.
In suspension terms, the fact they're now 20+ years old likely means they're all due for a refresh of the bushings etc.
320Ci's have the M54 2.2 engine that absolutely gallops through oil. A litre every 500 miles is common. The 325Ci is a vastly better car, noticeably more power, the same fuel economy and they aren't an oil drinker.
Oil leaks - cam cover gasket and oil filter housing. The latter is quite a straightforward job (2-3 hours) and you should have the CCV capsule and pipes replaced at the same time - that's another common problem but it's vastly easier with the filter housing removed - literally 20 minutes extra. Conversely, if you need to replace the CCV system, do the oil filter housing gasket at the same time because if it's not been replaced, you will be doing it at some point.
Gearboxes are okay but you can get power on/off clunk through the driveline which is wear in the CV joints. 320i's use the four cylinder skinny driveshafts which aren't really up to it. Rusty front arches and rear arches. Chocolate cooling system - the base of the radiator can be seen to be bowing out at the base. Non genuine header tanks can be iffy. Water pumps have a bad rep but they rarely fail in reality. In 30 years I've yet to see an M54 pump shed its impeller. I'm still replacing the odd 2001 original due to bearing failure but the plastic impellers are fine.
The boot floor crack is rare as well - it's luck of the draw and was mainly older 323i/328i stuff.
Window regulators, window switches, heater blower resistor, LF20 power steering pump (the shaft snaps off inside the pump) etc. It won't all fail at once but they can be quite niggly in old age.
They're not a bad thing but they're old, old cars now and unless you buy one with a stack of invoices and a proper history you could be buying a lot of deferred repairs.
Don't get too hung up on the Sport/M Sport version, a standard 325Ci is fine and imho they drive better than later stuff. You're probably looking at £4000 for a really nice one. From there you're into diligent maintenance to keep it nice.
Oil leaks - cam cover gasket and oil filter housing. The latter is quite a straightforward job (2-3 hours) and you should have the CCV capsule and pipes replaced at the same time - that's another common problem but it's vastly easier with the filter housing removed - literally 20 minutes extra. Conversely, if you need to replace the CCV system, do the oil filter housing gasket at the same time because if it's not been replaced, you will be doing it at some point.
Gearboxes are okay but you can get power on/off clunk through the driveline which is wear in the CV joints. 320i's use the four cylinder skinny driveshafts which aren't really up to it. Rusty front arches and rear arches. Chocolate cooling system - the base of the radiator can be seen to be bowing out at the base. Non genuine header tanks can be iffy. Water pumps have a bad rep but they rarely fail in reality. In 30 years I've yet to see an M54 pump shed its impeller. I'm still replacing the odd 2001 original due to bearing failure but the plastic impellers are fine.
The boot floor crack is rare as well - it's luck of the draw and was mainly older 323i/328i stuff.
Window regulators, window switches, heater blower resistor, LF20 power steering pump (the shaft snaps off inside the pump) etc. It won't all fail at once but they can be quite niggly in old age.
They're not a bad thing but they're old, old cars now and unless you buy one with a stack of invoices and a proper history you could be buying a lot of deferred repairs.
Don't get too hung up on the Sport/M Sport version, a standard 325Ci is fine and imho they drive better than later stuff. You're probably looking at £4000 for a really nice one. From there you're into diligent maintenance to keep it nice.
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