Electricians... does this exist?
Discussion
We're looking to fit a Hisense Canvas TV (like a Samsung frame) on the wall...
At the moment we have a double switch where the tv will get mounted, however once the plug is in it will make the tv sit prouder than we would like.
Ideally we would hard wire the tv into a switched fused spur, but I cannot find a double one to switch with the double socket...
Something like a cooker fused spur, but being 45A wouldn't be suitable?
At the moment we have a double switch where the tv will get mounted, however once the plug is in it will make the tv sit prouder than we would like.
Ideally we would hard wire the tv into a switched fused spur, but I cannot find a double one to switch with the double socket...
Something like a cooker fused spur, but being 45A wouldn't be suitable?
The Frame is handy as it runs power and data through a thin optical cable which you run to the control box.
For your TV could you run some trunking in the wall behind the TV for the cables thereby avoiding sockets behind the TV?
Back to your original question, why do you need a double spur of there's only one TV plug? I'm not an electrician so no comment on the practicalities of doing that.
For your TV could you run some trunking in the wall behind the TV for the cables thereby avoiding sockets behind the TV?
Back to your original question, why do you need a double spur of there's only one TV plug? I'm not an electrician so no comment on the practicalities of doing that.
Yes, a 2 gang euro module plate it’s a DP switch, fuse, flex outlet and blank, or a grid system with the same. Although if it’s in plasterboard I’d just be fitting a slightly bigger dual box, regular FCU and a blank plate.
https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/BG8EMR4.html
If the system doesn’t do a flex outlet, a drilled plastic blank with a ty rap behind will be good enough in this application.
When I ‘hard wire’ TV’s like this, I put a flex connector in line so it’s easier to fit.
https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/BG8EMR4.html
If the system doesn’t do a flex outlet, a drilled plastic blank with a ty rap behind will be good enough in this application.
When I ‘hard wire’ TV’s like this, I put a flex connector in line so it’s easier to fit.
https://www.electrical4less.co.uk/product-category...
Syncbox might work for you, but you'll need a deep stud wall to be able to fit it I'd imagine. I've never used it, but have seen it recommended on here before.
Syncbox might work for you, but you'll need a deep stud wall to be able to fit it I'd imagine. I've never used it, but have seen it recommended on here before.
Nothingtoseehere said:
The Frame is handy as it runs power and data through a thin optical cable which you run to the control box.
For your TV could you run some trunking in the wall behind the TV for the cables thereby avoiding sockets behind the TV?
Back to your original question, why do you need a double spur of there's only one TV plug? I'm not an electrician so no comment on the practicalities of doing that.
We dont want the frame as we want to avoid that cable, hence the Hisense.... For your TV could you run some trunking in the wall behind the TV for the cables thereby avoiding sockets behind the TV?
Back to your original question, why do you need a double spur of there's only one TV plug? I'm not an electrician so no comment on the practicalities of doing that.
its a solid wall so dont want to be digging into that at all if it can be avoided....
Was just hoping to switch the socket over to something we can flush fit the tv over.
I think you need to talk to an electrician first as you are proposing to hard-wire something not intended to be hard wired, removing a critical safety protection in the plug and putting it somewhere else.
I think the proposed changes would be notifiable and subject to an inspection so better to ask first than do it and seek permission later.
I think the proposed changes would be notifiable and subject to an inspection so better to ask first than do it and seek permission later.
First world problems of slim fit TV installs
.
We ended up having to get the electricans to move the entire plug sockets that were originally behind the TV to an separate location to allow a Frame TV to be installed flush.
I think your only real options are either run the cables behind the plaster, or cut into the wall to make a bespoke space to house all the needed cables.
As someone else has mentioned call up a local electrician, I'm pretty sure most are now use to dealing with this 'problem'. Hardwiring it into a main really doesn't sound like a good idea.....safety aside what are you going to do if you want to change TVs?

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We ended up having to get the electricans to move the entire plug sockets that were originally behind the TV to an separate location to allow a Frame TV to be installed flush.
I think your only real options are either run the cables behind the plaster, or cut into the wall to make a bespoke space to house all the needed cables.
As someone else has mentioned call up a local electrician, I'm pretty sure most are now use to dealing with this 'problem'. Hardwiring it into a main really doesn't sound like a good idea.....safety aside what are you going to do if you want to change TVs?

.webp)
So OP, are you saying you simply have the issue of the plug socket being behind the TV, so the plug will push the TV forward?
If that were me, I'd remove the double gang socket, put wagos on the wires, cut the plug off the TV lead, and connect it to the wagos. You are left with a bare patress box with the wagos in it, but , its hidden behind the TV so.....
If that were me, I'd remove the double gang socket, put wagos on the wires, cut the plug off the TV lead, and connect it to the wagos. You are left with a bare patress box with the wagos in it, but , its hidden behind the TV so.....
Just remember to place the TV as high up on the wall as possible.
That position ensures that you won't see the clearest and best image.
Many TVs, especially LED/LCD/QLED, offer the best picture quality when viewed straight-on. Mounting a TV too high forces you to view it from an off-angle, which can degrade the image.
People spend a small fortune on anew TV and then ruin the experience.
The centre of any TV should be at the height of the viewer's eye line.
But, does anyone listen to my genius? Of course not.
They'll be sticking them to the ceiling next!

That position ensures that you won't see the clearest and best image.
Many TVs, especially LED/LCD/QLED, offer the best picture quality when viewed straight-on. Mounting a TV too high forces you to view it from an off-angle, which can degrade the image.
People spend a small fortune on anew TV and then ruin the experience.
The centre of any TV should be at the height of the viewer's eye line.
But, does anyone listen to my genius? Of course not.
They'll be sticking them to the ceiling next!

Griffith4ever said:
So OP, are you saying you simply have the issue of the plug socket being behind the TV, so the plug will push the TV forward?
From the manual it's a fig-8 inlet that goes sideways into a recessed port on the back, so the issue would seem to be that having a normal mains socket on the wall behind the screen will push the screen 4cm or so away from the wall, and the OP wants the screen as flush to the wall as possible.I'd think the best solution is either to channel out the wall or build a shallow false wall in front of it, and have a normal socket concealed somewhere below or to the side.
Griffith4ever said:
So OP, are you saying you simply have the issue of the plug socket being behind the TV, so the plug will push the TV forward?
If that were me, I'd remove the double gang socket, put wagos on the wires, cut the plug off the TV lead, and connect it to the wagos. You are left with a bare patress box with the wagos in it, but , its hidden behind the TV so.....
Yeh don't do this If that were me, I'd remove the double gang socket, put wagos on the wires, cut the plug off the TV lead, and connect it to the wagos. You are left with a bare patress box with the wagos in it, but , its hidden behind the TV so.....
Griffith4ever said:
If that were me, I'd remove the double gang socket, put wagos on the wires, cut the plug off the TV lead, and connect it to the wagos. You are left with a bare patress box with the wagos in it, but , its hidden behind the TV so.....
Do not do this, this is just plain dangerous!Sporky said:
Doesn't that leave the cable unused, and with no local cut-off?
It will be protected by the 32A breaker in the fuse box and if there is a fault in the TV the cable to the TV which isn't rated for 32A will light up like a candle and probably burn the OP's house down.The original suggestion is the dumbest, most dangerous thing I have read in quite a while.
Convert the socket to a dual backbox - will require the hole to be widened a little.
https://www.screwfix.com/p/appleby-1-1-gang-galvan...
then fit a normal fused spur with a 3a fuse and blanking plate in the other position.
https://www.screwfix.com/p/appleby-1-1-gang-galvan...
then fit a normal fused spur with a 3a fuse and blanking plate in the other position.
Griffith4ever said:
So OP, are you saying you simply have the issue of the plug socket being behind the TV, so the plug will push the TV forward?
If that were me, I'd remove the double gang socket, put wagos on the wires, cut the plug off the TV lead, and connect it to the wagos. You are left with a bare patress box with the wagos in it, but , its hidden behind the TV so.....
Jesus christ...If that were me, I'd remove the double gang socket, put wagos on the wires, cut the plug off the TV lead, and connect it to the wagos. You are left with a bare patress box with the wagos in it, but , its hidden behind the TV so.....
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