what vintage chrono - and where to look?
Discussion
i have mentioned on the rolex thread that i have thought about buying a nice watch but then never do. the want never goes way, and i am thinking sod it just give in.
for as long as this dithering has been going on [15+ yrs] the top of the want list has been a pristine vintage 2 dial carrera in black. i am aware of the price increase my dithering has exposed me to on this....

but much like early 911 price increases in the same period that is perhaps a 'me' issue. i am ok with the spend but also wary that what i want is very much coveted and i am wary of how to ensure i don't buy a bitsa or worse, and that i don't pay over the odds for something that isn't really that rare but has been marketed as though it is.
other heuers like the carrera, monza etc. don't do it for me. i am open to other brands, just wondering what is out there as even the de ville below was unknown to me before this week.
so i would like a recognised / respected maker, ideally 2 dial chrono with an unfussy dial, no chunky bezel and clean lug design, i won't wear a bracelet, it would be changed out for a strap.
it seems to be there was a brief window either where this style was introduced and before the defining watches of their ilk [i.e. pre carrera vs carrera] or simply overshadowed by more popular models [i.e. speedy vs de ville]
i would be ok with a re-issue but would prefer original. i tried a modern top time recently and didn't like it at all, too shiny. the max bill chrono should be the kind of thing i should like, but i don't. i keep looking back to the older stuff yet in as good a condition as possible.
the omega de ville caught my eye this week, in blue but white also looks good to me.

others that i am aware of include the breitling top time

and at the upper end of possible budget, le coultre, etc.
i might be swayed by a 3 dial also. like this lecoultre which is very much my kind of thing. colour is welcome if it works, but then this is rare. gold i am on the fence over, some look good some don't

TL:DR - i'm looking for inspiration, what might you suggest, and who/where is best to look to buy? [i am aware of chrono24 as it is keyword searches on their site that has been my main source of inspiration so far].
for as long as this dithering has been going on [15+ yrs] the top of the want list has been a pristine vintage 2 dial carrera in black. i am aware of the price increase my dithering has exposed me to on this....

but much like early 911 price increases in the same period that is perhaps a 'me' issue. i am ok with the spend but also wary that what i want is very much coveted and i am wary of how to ensure i don't buy a bitsa or worse, and that i don't pay over the odds for something that isn't really that rare but has been marketed as though it is.
other heuers like the carrera, monza etc. don't do it for me. i am open to other brands, just wondering what is out there as even the de ville below was unknown to me before this week.
so i would like a recognised / respected maker, ideally 2 dial chrono with an unfussy dial, no chunky bezel and clean lug design, i won't wear a bracelet, it would be changed out for a strap.
it seems to be there was a brief window either where this style was introduced and before the defining watches of their ilk [i.e. pre carrera vs carrera] or simply overshadowed by more popular models [i.e. speedy vs de ville]
i would be ok with a re-issue but would prefer original. i tried a modern top time recently and didn't like it at all, too shiny. the max bill chrono should be the kind of thing i should like, but i don't. i keep looking back to the older stuff yet in as good a condition as possible.
the omega de ville caught my eye this week, in blue but white also looks good to me.

others that i am aware of include the breitling top time

and at the upper end of possible budget, le coultre, etc.
i might be swayed by a 3 dial also. like this lecoultre which is very much my kind of thing. colour is welcome if it works, but then this is rare. gold i am on the fence over, some look good some don't
TL:DR - i'm looking for inspiration, what might you suggest, and who/where is best to look to buy? [i am aware of chrono24 as it is keyword searches on their site that has been my main source of inspiration so far].
I've had good service from Dom Hackett as have others on this forum.
2 ends of ther price spectrum:
https://www.hackettwatches.com/watch/2021-vintage-...
https://www.hackettwatches.com/watch/2015-chronogr...
2 ends of ther price spectrum:
https://www.hackettwatches.com/watch/2021-vintage-...
https://www.hackettwatches.com/watch/2015-chronogr...
Dicky Knee said:
This (though not this exact one).A long while ago I was wanting a Carrera too...but I was shown a Class El Primero for the same/similar money...and technically (if that matters) it's a much better watch.
I have this on a brown leather strap, and love it. Have done for 20yrs


the following might give insight into why i have never followed through previously.... very much me telling you i'm autistic without telling you i'm autistic kind of thing.
panda dials do not seem to be my thing. compared side by side i prefer a single colour. i prefer the max bill to the junghans shown.
the zenith i appreciate is a fine watch but the dial is doing nothing for me. i can't point to anything particular.
similarly the patek, but that is easier to describe, it's the period font. strikes me [even if incorrectly] of 30s/40s which isn't my era.
but then i do like the heuer 'big eyes' which dates to the 40s. i joined a website the other day purely to be able to see the price of the 'average' one they had for sale. was 10k, which i simply can't see value in.

the camaro i think i need to see in person. not sure about the cushion case, but then i recall seeing one of these in a shop window as a kid and thinking they looked fantastic.

is there at least a name for this style of watch, or is it more era? i would have thought driver's watches, but those again seem to have a cut in date where a bezel was added and that just ruins it for me.
panda dials do not seem to be my thing. compared side by side i prefer a single colour. i prefer the max bill to the junghans shown.
the zenith i appreciate is a fine watch but the dial is doing nothing for me. i can't point to anything particular.
similarly the patek, but that is easier to describe, it's the period font. strikes me [even if incorrectly] of 30s/40s which isn't my era.
but then i do like the heuer 'big eyes' which dates to the 40s. i joined a website the other day purely to be able to see the price of the 'average' one they had for sale. was 10k, which i simply can't see value in.

the camaro i think i need to see in person. not sure about the cushion case, but then i recall seeing one of these in a shop window as a kid and thinking they looked fantastic.
is there at least a name for this style of watch, or is it more era? i would have thought driver's watches, but those again seem to have a cut in date where a bezel was added and that just ruins it for me.
Edited by shirt on Monday 20th October 16:55
If you don't mind cheap (in comparison to what you've been looking at) , you could pick up a vintage russian 2 dial chronograph, which fits your bill for a few hundred pounds. I picked this Poljot Buran up on ebay for £126 last week.
The 3133 movement is based on the Swiss Valjeux 3300 from the 70's. Very accurate, great flyback chronograph function and 20mm lugs gives great flexibility with strap choice. I've ordered a 20mm vintage dark brown Nato to put this on. Will post more pics once it arrives.
Understand if you wouldn't like to slum it, but I think it would suit your brief to a tee and has a nice bit of history attached to it. The only criticism I would have is that its only 38mm, which can be quite small for me on some watches, but it's quite a tall watch, and the crown/pushers are quite chunky, so doesn't look too bad.
Hi shirt! Long time no hear, hope all is well.
I'm afraid I have a bit of a chronograph fetish so your question is right up my street.
The El Primero mentioned above is a great shout, given its history and status - it's an IYKYK type of watch. If the budget is the same as an early Heuer Carrera, you'll get a lot of watch for the money. There's lot of choice and unless you're going for something truly iconic like an early A384 (I have the modern revival version), I think of them as great value. If the silver dial above is not to your taste, how about an open face for around 2 grand:
https://www.chrono24.co.uk/zenith/-zenith-03024040...
https://www.chrono24.co.uk/zenith/-xxt-03126040210...
Or perhaps something more conventional and based on the original from 1969 like this:
https://www.chrono24.co.uk/zenith/-zenith-03215040...
Too many dial combinations and styles to list. If the Zenith appeals, you will have many happy hours trawling Chrono24...
You can't go wrong with a Hesalite Speedy. If an early moonwatch seems a bit pricey, the last but one Racing model is (relatively speaking) ridiculously good value. Here's a 2010 with the modern co-axial movement for less than 2 grand:
https://www.chrono24.co.uk/omega/speedmaster-racin...
Again, lots of dial variations. Maybe one of the earlier Schumi specials might appeal (although the movement is not the party piece)?
And finally, I'm a Sinn fan. No BS, engineering led, reliable off the shelf movements. I have the 203 Arktis with the ice blue dial, but generally speaking any Sinn chrono is a banger. There are 225 Sinn chronos listed on Chrono24 - I would happily wear any one of them!
https://www.chrono24.co.uk/search/index.htm?dosear...
Happy hunting!
I'm afraid I have a bit of a chronograph fetish so your question is right up my street.
The El Primero mentioned above is a great shout, given its history and status - it's an IYKYK type of watch. If the budget is the same as an early Heuer Carrera, you'll get a lot of watch for the money. There's lot of choice and unless you're going for something truly iconic like an early A384 (I have the modern revival version), I think of them as great value. If the silver dial above is not to your taste, how about an open face for around 2 grand:
https://www.chrono24.co.uk/zenith/-zenith-03024040...
https://www.chrono24.co.uk/zenith/-xxt-03126040210...
Or perhaps something more conventional and based on the original from 1969 like this:
https://www.chrono24.co.uk/zenith/-zenith-03215040...
Too many dial combinations and styles to list. If the Zenith appeals, you will have many happy hours trawling Chrono24...
You can't go wrong with a Hesalite Speedy. If an early moonwatch seems a bit pricey, the last but one Racing model is (relatively speaking) ridiculously good value. Here's a 2010 with the modern co-axial movement for less than 2 grand:
https://www.chrono24.co.uk/omega/speedmaster-racin...
Again, lots of dial variations. Maybe one of the earlier Schumi specials might appeal (although the movement is not the party piece)?
And finally, I'm a Sinn fan. No BS, engineering led, reliable off the shelf movements. I have the 203 Arktis with the ice blue dial, but generally speaking any Sinn chrono is a banger. There are 225 Sinn chronos listed on Chrono24 - I would happily wear any one of them!
https://www.chrono24.co.uk/search/index.htm?dosear...
Happy hunting!
Dicky Knee said:
I've had good service from Dom Hackett as have others on this forum.
2 ends of ther price spectrum:
https://www.hackettwatches.com/watch/2021-vintage-...
https://www.hackettwatches.com/watch/2015-chronogr...
These are nice, but the Striking 10th Zenith El Primero with two straps is a steal...2 ends of ther price spectrum:
https://www.hackettwatches.com/watch/2021-vintage-...
https://www.hackettwatches.com/watch/2015-chronogr...
https://www.hackettwatches.com/watch/2016-el-prime...
shirt said:
i might be swayed by a 3 dial also. like this lecoultre which is very much my kind of thing. colour is welcome if it works, but then this is rare. gold i am on the fence over, some look good some don't

Um, I'm happy to be corrected, but that doesn't look good enough to be a Swiss made Le Coultre. I'd guess that it was produced by Le Coultre Mumbai. The Mumbai produced watched watches are almost as highly collectable as Tizer ringpulls and have on a good day they're nearly as valuable.(Meh, I know nothing.)
For vintage Chronos, what better than a vintage website?
https://chronocentric.com/forums/chronotrader/
Like every other internet watch sales site, Chronotrader does get it's fair share of scammers. Last time I browsed most of the posts were from dealers and the pricing wasn't exactly attractive to me. However, the website does do what it says on the
What about a Seiko 6139? Probably the first automatic chronograph to market, went to space, worn by racing drivers and movie stars and comes in a variety of 70s chic styles:
https://www.chrono24.co.uk/magazine/the-legend-of-...
I've bought almost a dozen vintage watches from Japan and they have always been as described. Having said that, if you want one of the yellow dialled ones (Pogue) you need to be very crafty as they are mostly knockoffs or 4 times the price. Or both. All of my vintage watches have been bought functioning but have all benefited from a service (no matter if they say they have been "recently serviced") so factor that into the price. This guy is super fast, reliable and has excellent communication - a 6139 was £165 plus parts and back to me within a week:
https://www.thevintagejapanesewatchcompany.com/
I don't have a decent pic of my 6139 since it's service so here's a slightly grottier one:

https://www.chrono24.co.uk/magazine/the-legend-of-...
I've bought almost a dozen vintage watches from Japan and they have always been as described. Having said that, if you want one of the yellow dialled ones (Pogue) you need to be very crafty as they are mostly knockoffs or 4 times the price. Or both. All of my vintage watches have been bought functioning but have all benefited from a service (no matter if they say they have been "recently serviced") so factor that into the price. This guy is super fast, reliable and has excellent communication - a 6139 was £165 plus parts and back to me within a week:
https://www.thevintagejapanesewatchcompany.com/
I don't have a decent pic of my 6139 since it's service so here's a slightly grottier one:
seefarr said:
What about a Seiko 6139? Probably the first automatic chronograph to market, went to space, worn by racing drivers and movie stars and comes in a variety of 70s chic styles:
https://www.chrono24.co.uk/magazine/the-legend-of-...
I've bought almost a dozen vintage watches from Japan and they have always been as described. Having said that, if you want one of the yellow dialled ones (Pogue) you need to be very crafty as they are mostly knockoffs or 4 times the price. Or both. All of my vintage watches have been bought functioning but have all benefited from a service (no matter if they say they have been "recently serviced") so factor that into the price. This guy is super fast, reliable and has excellent communication - a 6139 was £165 plus parts and back to me within a week:
https://www.thevintagejapanesewatchcompany.com/
I don't have a decent pic of my 6139 since it's service so here's a slightly grottier one:

Andy is excellent. The late 60's onwards mechanical Seiko Chrono's were the best available, spanked the Swiss in the competitions. They produced some lovely designs.https://www.chrono24.co.uk/magazine/the-legend-of-...
I've bought almost a dozen vintage watches from Japan and they have always been as described. Having said that, if you want one of the yellow dialled ones (Pogue) you need to be very crafty as they are mostly knockoffs or 4 times the price. Or both. All of my vintage watches have been bought functioning but have all benefited from a service (no matter if they say they have been "recently serviced") so factor that into the price. This guy is super fast, reliable and has excellent communication - a 6139 was £165 plus parts and back to me within a week:
https://www.thevintagejapanesewatchcompany.com/
I don't have a decent pic of my 6139 since it's service so here's a slightly grottier one:
Not a known brand, but vintage, great condition, unfussy and a bit of a looker:

The bloke did a write up about his watch here : https://1010.watch/heli-reymond-chronograph-valjou... , it's woth a look just for the superb photography.
This very watch is for sale here:
https://omegaforums.net/threads/heli-reymond-chron...

The bloke did a write up about his watch here : https://1010.watch/heli-reymond-chronograph-valjou... , it's woth a look just for the superb photography.
This very watch is for sale here:
https://omegaforums.net/threads/heli-reymond-chron...
You could always for for some of the classics like an old Navitimer (1966) or a Speed master (1970)


Or a nice, late 60's Breitling....


One of my favourite early 70's Seikos....

Or if you are not fussed about the name, there's a whole host of 'lesser' brands out there, most of which have the same movement as most of the high end brands for a fraction of the price...



Or a nice, late 60's Breitling....


One of my favourite early 70's Seikos....

Or if you are not fussed about the name, there's a whole host of 'lesser' brands out there, most of which have the same movement as most of the high end brands for a fraction of the price...

Gassing Station | Watches | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff



