Garage Door Motor Failure

[bobthemonkey]

I have a pair of up and over Cardale DC650T garage door openers that are around 5 years old.

One has suddenly stopped responding to the wireless handset. I’ve reset it, wiping all settings but can’t seem to programme the handsets (which work fine on the other door). I’ve managed to use the buttons on the actual drive unit to set the thresholds in the initial programming mode but once out of programming mode, it doesn’t do anything!

Shorting the contacts to simulate an external control box doesn’t do anything either.

I assume one of the chips on the logic board has a fault as the actual motor runs. Spares don’t seem to be available, so short of pulling out the board, buying a multimeter, looking for shorts and hoping my very rusty soldering skills still hold up, what do people recommend as a replacement?

[AW10]

Any chance there’s an issue with the photocells or whatever they use as a safety device?

And can you swap any bits between the two to help fault find?

I fully appreciate I’m not answering your question as posted!

[bobthemonkey]

Thanks for the suggestion but it’s pretty much a single PCB, a motor and a power supply, so not much to swap about.

As for safety devices, those terminals are conspicuously empty on both units, expect for a resistor bridging the gap…

[Actual]

Many motorised garage doors are rebadged versions of another make and often from Germany so find all and any identifying markings and google like crazy.

When a previous garage door started playing up it was the brushes on the motor and a light tap with a hammer on the motor casing got it going. From the sound of it this doesn't seem to be your problem.

[Dog Biscuit]

Does it have a safety rubber bottom seal with an adjacent wireless sensor?

These are favourite failure modes

[AW10]

Long shot but perhaps worth a try… I recall the installer of my doors telling me of a batch of controllers where the screws on the terminal blocks had not been tightened down so jumpers didn’t always make a good contact. Some didn’t work when first installed whereas some took a while to go wrong. As a result they added a step to their install process - check/tighten every terminal block screw as part of commissioning.

[bobthemonkey]

AW10 said:

Long shot but perhaps worth a try I recall the installer of my doors telling me of a batch of controllers where the screws on the terminal blocks had not been tightened down so jumpers didn t always make a good contact. Some didn t work when first installed whereas some took a while to go wrong. As a result they added a step to their install process - check/tighten every terminal block screw as part of commissioning.

Terminal screws were all nice tight, but dumped some contact cleaner in there to be sure; and all came back to life! Thanks for the point in the right direction.