Camera for exhibition photos
Discussion
Having just been to the Motorcycle Show at the NEC, I'm looking for a new camera (probably secondhand) for taking pictures in less-than-ideal lighting.
Although it looks OK to the naked eye, it is really dark when you try to take photos. I bumped up the ISO, but then it gets visibly grainy.
A better lens (something like an 18-50mm with as big an aperture as possible) will obviously help, but will the camera it is bolted on to make much of a difference?
Although it looks OK to the naked eye, it is really dark when you try to take photos. I bumped up the ISO, but then it gets visibly grainy.
A better lens (something like an 18-50mm with as big an aperture as possible) will obviously help, but will the camera it is bolted on to make much of a difference?
boyse7en said:
A Sony A290 with a 18-50 F4.5 lens. Set to shutter priority at 1/100th. ISO is set at 800, as if i go higher than that its gets too grainy to use.
Trouble is, you're using a 15 year old camera with a slow lens. Things have moved on expenentially in camera sensors since 2010 - so if you're serious about getting decent images, then you're def going to have to upgrade to the body as well as the lens.boyse7en said:
A Sony A290 with a 18-50 F4.5 lens. Set to shutter priority at 1/100th. ISO is set at 800, as if i go higher than that its gets too grainy to use.
Seems so: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sony_Alpha_290You could use a faster lens, eg f2.8, and drop the shutter speed a bit, or ideally update the camera as it's 15 years old and things have moved on. They'll be able to take ISO 2,000 or 4,000 without undue problems. I always use aperture priority so I can set the aperture I want and just keep an eye on the shutter speed it gives.
Another option is to use flash but photographing shiny things in low light isn't likely to get nice results.
Bear in mind that a wide aperture lets more light in, but at the expense of the depth of field you may want. I just looked through my photos from the classic car show a couple of weeks ago and for stands lit just by the hall lighting, I was shooting at f5.6 or f8, 1/10s, and 3200 ISO (hand held, stabilised lens). For people pics I'd change those settings to get a faster shutter speed.
I think the light in the NEC is not too bad at all these days. To my mind 3200 ISO is not that fast, a little noise reduction if need be and they are as grain free as I need for anything. I use a Canon R5, which is certainly not the best high ISO performer out there, but anything a bit more modern and possibly full frame would probably be an improvement for you. There are real bargains to be had these days on used DSLRs as people switch to mirrorless.
I think the light in the NEC is not too bad at all these days. To my mind 3200 ISO is not that fast, a little noise reduction if need be and they are as grain free as I need for anything. I use a Canon R5, which is certainly not the best high ISO performer out there, but anything a bit more modern and possibly full frame would probably be an improvement for you. There are real bargains to be had these days on used DSLRs as people switch to mirrorless.
GetCarter said:
boyse7en said:
A Sony A290 with a 18-50 F4.5 lens. Set to shutter priority at 1/100th. ISO is set at 800, as if i go higher than that its gets too grainy to use.
Trouble is, you're using a 15 year old camera with a slow lens. Things have moved on expenentially in camera sensors since 2010 - so if you're serious about getting decent images, then you're def going to have to upgrade to the body as well as the lens.boyse7en said:
GetCarter said:
boyse7en said:
A Sony A290 with a 18-50 F4.5 lens. Set to shutter priority at 1/100th. ISO is set at 800, as if i go higher than that its gets too grainy to use.
Trouble is, you're using a 15 year old camera with a slow lens. Things have moved on expenentially in camera sensors since 2010 - so if you're serious about getting decent images, then you're def going to have to upgrade to the body as well as the lens.
eltawater said:
Post up an example of what you think is a problem in your view and what you would like it to end up looking like.
What are you doing in post processing to compensate for the darkness and noise?
What are you doing in post processing to compensate for the darkness and noise?
That's as shot. 1/100th, F4.5, ISO400
If I zoom in a bit you can see the graining...
At the moment I put the RAW file into Photoshop and tweak the Light settings (Exposure, Shadows, highlights etc), and then add as much Manual Noise Reduction as I can get away with
boyse7en said:
That's as shot. 1/100th, F4.5, ISO400
If I zoom in a bit you can see the graining...
At the moment I put the RAW file into Photoshop and tweak the Light settings (Exposure, Shadows, highlights etc), and then add as much Manual Noise Reduction as I can get away with
Have you tried running the RAW file first through something like DXO PureRaw?
I use it a lot now before loading into Lightroom, it can work wonders on noisy dark images over manually denoise functions.
Give the free trial a go to see if it helps, sadly it doesn't work on the image formats posted here so I can't show what it would produce from your samples.
I use it a lot now before loading into Lightroom, it can work wonders on noisy dark images over manually denoise functions.
Give the free trial a go to see if it helps, sadly it doesn't work on the image formats posted here so I can't show what it would produce from your samples.
Yep, you're miles away from needing RAW and all that jazz - at a guess you're four stops underexposed, so get your exposure right to start with. I think your metering system has been fooled by the spotlights. You're already on the limit of aperture and ISO and not much to go on shutter speed, so new camera it is.
The forum hereby authorises you to spend money on a new camera
The forum hereby authorises you to spend money on a new camera
Simpo Two said:
Yep, you're miles away from needing RAW and all that jazz - at a guess you're four stops underexposed, so get your exposure right to start with. I think your metering system has been fooled by the spotlights. You're already on the limit of aperture and ISO and not much to go on shutter speed, so new camera it is.
The forum hereby authorises you to spend money on a new camera
Yeah, I know it is underexposed, that's what I'm trying to sort out. The forum hereby authorises you to spend money on a new camera
Slower shutter speed introduces blur or shake.
Faster ISO brings in more grain
Lens is currently at max aperture.
So I want to get an 18-50 or 55mm lens with aperture wider than F4.5, and a camera that can handle higher ISO rates better. The question is what camera?
Budget isn't huge so it will be secondhand. Is there a particular brand that is better for noise or are they all of a similar standard? Are there any particular brands or models with features that would help.
If camera model is not that important, I'll just go and find a secondhand lens at teh spec I'm after and fit it to whatever body it fits to, whether Canon, Sony, etc.
It all depends on your budget. As a starter for ten, a quick look at Wex s/h section shows me a used EOS 6D Mk2, with a 24-70 f4 (full frame equivalent to your 18-55) would be about a grand. There will be lower and higher cost choices.
I've been a Canon user since 1988 so that's all I know, but any brand would have something similar and despite what people say there are not huge differences between them. Try to get the newest camera you can, and handle it first if at all possible so you know you feel comfortable using it.
I've been a Canon user since 1988 so that's all I know, but any brand would have something similar and despite what people say there are not huge differences between them. Try to get the newest camera you can, and handle it first if at all possible so you know you feel comfortable using it.
It might be underexposed because you're using shutter speed priority and the ISO is fixed. As it can't go faster than f4.5, it has no option but to be underexposed. For a lens in the 18-50mm range you can handhold 1/60th or slower if you practice. You could get a faster lens, but as someone said, you'll lose DOF which might be important to you, and fast lenses cost more. In summary, you you could do a bit better, with f2.8 and 1/60th, but not really better enough.
So, onwards. You're asking what camera and lens but what's the budget?
ETA Tog keeps beating me! Kit-wise I'm only qualified to assist with Nikon.
So, onwards. You're asking what camera and lens but what's the budget?
ETA Tog keeps beating me! Kit-wise I'm only qualified to assist with Nikon.
Budget would be up to £700, and I'm fine with secondhand gear.
I'm currently reading p about the virtues of Micro 4/3 format cameras, as they might be a better bet than a full frame one that i have to carry around all day at exhibitions due to weight and portability. It seems to be a divisive issue amongst photographers!
I'm currently reading p about the virtues of Micro 4/3 format cameras, as they might be a better bet than a full frame one that i have to carry around all day at exhibitions due to weight and portability. It seems to be a divisive issue amongst photographers!
boyse7en said:
Budget would be up to £700, and I'm fine with secondhand gear.
I'm currently reading p about the virtues of Micro 4/3 format cameras, as they might be a better bet than a full frame one that i have to carry around all day at exhibitions due to weight and portability. It seems to be a divisive issue amongst photographers!
Well, I would steer you to the middle ground and a crop sensor, eg Nikon DX (1.5x) or Canon (1.6x).I'm currently reading p about the virtues of Micro 4/3 format cameras, as they might be a better bet than a full frame one that i have to carry around all day at exhibitions due to weight and portability. It seems to be a divisive issue amongst photographers!
The lens I use most is the Nikon 17-55mm f2.8. It was £1,000+ when new but now s/h at more sensible prices.
In fact only £169: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/177487542832
And amazingly here's a D500 body to go with it at only £549. Excellent in low light, and my current camera: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/205847996397
£718. My work is done :-)
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