Discussion
I decided to re seal the bath as it's seen better days,
I put the son in the bath last night and I've had a leak....a previously repaired crack in the bath means I need to get the wallet out (somehow) to do our Rectangle 2m x 1.5 m bathroom. A new bath will end up costing me 5-700 quid if I want a decent one with all the trimmings plus tiling work needed, and then the risk I'll be putting it in a space not tiled appropriately around it. Previous tenants tiled I think have tiled over original tiles.
I am going to get some quotes for a tradesman to do it, and I have friends who can provide some guidance on fix/tiling work in the trade who tbh I'd rather they didn't do the work based on size of it. Doing a design on Easy bathrooms its upto 3k without tiles, im sure that bits reduced when looking around but you can see why these costs you see are so high.
Scary bit is first fix and tiling. I think I can do the Suite install, shower plumbing in I might get a mate in to help with that as its off the mains and never want that going tits up if its in the wall.
First fix questions if anyone else has done similar work.
-I like the idea of jacko, is it just overpriced moisture board?
-Do you do the floor with this?
-What's it like when painted over, do you need to skim it as I've seen some but it's got a rib on it?
Tiling
-How easy have you found tiling as a beginner? What mistakes are sortable you've made?
Bathroom suites
-Baths all seem exceptionally lower quality than days of old. We won't use the shower regularly as we have an ensuite, but have you ever had issues with the latest available baths?
I put the son in the bath last night and I've had a leak....a previously repaired crack in the bath means I need to get the wallet out (somehow) to do our Rectangle 2m x 1.5 m bathroom. A new bath will end up costing me 5-700 quid if I want a decent one with all the trimmings plus tiling work needed, and then the risk I'll be putting it in a space not tiled appropriately around it. Previous tenants tiled I think have tiled over original tiles.
I am going to get some quotes for a tradesman to do it, and I have friends who can provide some guidance on fix/tiling work in the trade who tbh I'd rather they didn't do the work based on size of it. Doing a design on Easy bathrooms its upto 3k without tiles, im sure that bits reduced when looking around but you can see why these costs you see are so high.
Scary bit is first fix and tiling. I think I can do the Suite install, shower plumbing in I might get a mate in to help with that as its off the mains and never want that going tits up if its in the wall.
First fix questions if anyone else has done similar work.
-I like the idea of jacko, is it just overpriced moisture board?
-Do you do the floor with this?
-What's it like when painted over, do you need to skim it as I've seen some but it's got a rib on it?
Tiling
-How easy have you found tiling as a beginner? What mistakes are sortable you've made?
Bathroom suites
-Baths all seem exceptionally lower quality than days of old. We won't use the shower regularly as we have an ensuite, but have you ever had issues with the latest available baths?
I think these are best type of boards, just make sure they are well supported.
https://www.protilertools.co.uk/categories/tile-ba...
If you have wooden floorboard, then I think you can overboard by gluing and screwing down.
Can't remember the brand I used, but they'll have a whole system with the tape and tanking stuff etc.
Prep, as always, is key. If you get everything flat and square etc, the tiling will be a lot easier, then it's really just down to taking your time to get the layout correct.
Cutting is fairly easy unless using porcelain, then you'll need some good diamond discs.
ETA - definitely need to skim it - has a pattern to the surface. But if you aren't in a wet area, you could just use plasterboard. Having said that, I did my whole bathroom with it for peace of mind.
https://www.protilertools.co.uk/categories/tile-ba...
If you have wooden floorboard, then I think you can overboard by gluing and screwing down.
Can't remember the brand I used, but they'll have a whole system with the tape and tanking stuff etc.
Prep, as always, is key. If you get everything flat and square etc, the tiling will be a lot easier, then it's really just down to taking your time to get the layout correct.
Cutting is fairly easy unless using porcelain, then you'll need some good diamond discs.
ETA - definitely need to skim it - has a pattern to the surface. But if you aren't in a wet area, you could just use plasterboard. Having said that, I did my whole bathroom with it for peace of mind.
Edited by Slagathore on Monday 24th November 19:50
If you don't fancy tiling then you could look at bathroom panels instead. Good tiles done well will always look better but they will cost far more as well in materials and labour. Personally it's what I'm planning on doing in our main bathroom as realistically we use the en suite so I'd rather not spend the extra and I hate tiling and the kids won't care!
SunsetZed said:
If you don't fancy tiling then you could look at bathroom panels instead. Good tiles done well will always look better but they will cost far more as well in materials and labour. Personally it's what I'm planning on doing in our main bathroom as realistically we use the en suite so I'd rather not spend the extra and I hate tiling and the kids won't care!
I was just having a look at bathroom panels, they seem like a similar price per SqM. Probably easier to install for a DIY job than tiles but finish wise not going to be the same.
We really have too much choice for the home now.
Jacko is not overpriced moisture board. It is entirely waterproof. 6mm for the floor and 12mm for the walls. Tile glue and screw (with washers) on the floor and tube glue and screw again with washers on stud walls. Silicone every board as you fit it will be as good as tanking.
Tiling is relatively easy once you have the planning done. Happy to help with that if you post dimensions etc.
If you use spacers and levellers you should get it pretty flat.
Tiling is relatively easy once you have the planning done. Happy to help with that if you post dimensions etc.
If you use spacers and levellers you should get it pretty flat.
Thanks for the input.
Im going to need to replace the floorboards under the bath and no doubt the muppets before tiled straight onto chipboard.
I also need to sort this mess out where the leak came in. Luckily id left trays under the bath to catch it ever happening again as this could had been far worse.
Im going to need to replace the floorboards under the bath and no doubt the muppets before tiled straight onto chipboard.
I also need to sort this mess out where the leak came in. Luckily id left trays under the bath to catch it ever happening again as this could had been far worse.
fourstardan said:
Thanks for the input.
Im going to need to replace the floorboards under the bath and no doubt the muppets before tiled straight onto chipboard.
I also need to sort this mess out where the leak came in. Luckily id left trays under the bath to catch it ever happening again as this could had been far worse.
If the floor glue is white or grey a hammer and heavy duty scraper will get it off. If it is black you are in for a whole world of pain and may be better cutting the chipboard up and replacing it.Im going to need to replace the floorboards under the bath and no doubt the muppets before tiled straight onto chipboard.
I also need to sort this mess out where the leak came in. Luckily id left trays under the bath to catch it ever happening again as this could had been far worse.
Definitely doable… I did a bit of tiling when we bought our house 25 years ago, but nothing serious.
Worked in corporate for 30 years, retired 6 years ago, had a couple of years doing nothing, then ended up doing bits and bobs for friends, which evolved in to a little handyman business, which evolved in to taking baths out and replacing with walk in showers, and eventually to ripping bathrooms out and completely renovating them… it’s amazing what you can learn on YouTube (and how much trust people will put in someone
)
This is one I did last year
This is the one I’m in the middle of at the moment.
Alex, my Columbian mate, helped me get the floor up and out, and put a new ceiling in.
Now on to tiling…. Finished the floor this morning and started dry fitting the wall tiles.
Wouldn’t recommend something like this as a 1st project, but if you’re starting with a flat/square/plumb surface the tiling bit is relatively easy…. Get a plumber in to do the 1st fix, then crack on. If you don’t know how to do something, google it
Worked in corporate for 30 years, retired 6 years ago, had a couple of years doing nothing, then ended up doing bits and bobs for friends, which evolved in to a little handyman business, which evolved in to taking baths out and replacing with walk in showers, and eventually to ripping bathrooms out and completely renovating them… it’s amazing what you can learn on YouTube (and how much trust people will put in someone
)This is one I did last year
This is the one I’m in the middle of at the moment.
Alex, my Columbian mate, helped me get the floor up and out, and put a new ceiling in.
Now on to tiling…. Finished the floor this morning and started dry fitting the wall tiles.
Wouldn’t recommend something like this as a 1st project, but if you’re starting with a flat/square/plumb surface the tiling bit is relatively easy…. Get a plumber in to do the 1st fix, then crack on. If you don’t know how to do something, google it
Bathrooms are easy, and messy.
Tiling is easy so long as you use real adhesive NOT redymix. Take your time. Even quick set ( which a is what you want) is slow enough not to rush. Mix small batches.
Plumbing is dead easy. All the mystery evaporates once you know how to isolate the water feeds.
I've tiled over tiles (with large format travertine) and it's all still there after 7 years. Was that or back to batten.
Tiling is easy so long as you use real adhesive NOT redymix. Take your time. Even quick set ( which a is what you want) is slow enough not to rush. Mix small batches.
Plumbing is dead easy. All the mystery evaporates once you know how to isolate the water feeds.
I've tiled over tiles (with large format travertine) and it's all still there after 7 years. Was that or back to batten.
Griffith4ever said:
Plumbing is dead easy.
Depends on the installation.I’m scared to death of it after fracturing microbore pipes twice when I wasn’t even attempting to do anything with them.
2 Sunday plumber call outs later and I don’t go anywhere near anything water related, other than removing items with isolation valves below them.
rossub said:
Griffith4ever said:
Plumbing is dead easy.
Depends on the installation.I m scared to death of it after fracturing microbore pipes twice when I wasn t even attempting to do anything with them.
2 Sunday plumber call outs later and I don t go anywhere near anything water related, other than removing items with isolation valves below them.
Pushfit, compression soldering, it's all easy when you know you are not going to get wet.
Inline isolation valves fail too, so I don't completely rely on them. (you know, the little compression ones by your toilet etc). Turn off the main supply and run taps until they stop.
f
king plumbing… took the isolator taps off today to do the tiling and cut outs. 2 of the 4 came off easily, one was tight as hell but came off eventually, the 4th one was so tight the copper fitting gave way before the iso came off.
I don’t do copper… fortunately the plumber who’d moved the bath taps popped in in his way home and sorted it.
king plumbing… took the isolator taps off today to do the tiling and cut outs. 2 of the 4 came off easily, one was tight as hell but came off eventually, the 4th one was so tight the copper fitting gave way before the iso came off. I don’t do copper… fortunately the plumber who’d moved the bath taps popped in in his way home and sorted it.
rossub said:
Hope you ve got a few weeks off work.
Had five years off for DIY (Working at home). Isolating valves are key yes, I have a good mate who won't go near push fit so he'll be doing my pipe work in copper, I will get him to teach me how to blow pipe as well.
Had another mate round who does bathrooms for a living and he's suggested hiding the taps/pipes for shower all in the wall with the controls the other end of the bath. Felt weird at first but I like this idea as it means no wet arms or moving the shower screen every time. It all makes sense and fortunately I've got unvented system so can feed the tap pipes from upstairs, He'll have a moan when I need to redo the shower, its fed with plastic pipe, copper for the isolation then into the chrome tails.
It's quite clear I need to strip back the plasterboard and put Jacko down after the plumbing.
I've got artex at the moment so will go with a skim over as the recommendation was not to worry about replastering the ceiling.
I'm going down to Cityplumbing bathrooms on Saturday for a fit up of the suite and some plans.
Chris Stott said:
fking plumbing took the isolator taps off today to do the tiling and cut outs. 2 of the 4 came off easily, one was tight as hell but came off eventually, the 4th one was so tight the copper fitting gave way before the iso came off.
I don t do copper fortunately the plumber who d moved the bath taps popped in in his way home and sorted it.
Copper:king plumbing took the isolator taps off today to do the tiling and cut outs. 2 of the 4 came off easily, one was tight as hell but came off eventually, the 4th one was so tight the copper fitting gave way before the iso came off. I don t do copper fortunately the plumber who d moved the bath taps popped in in his way home and sorted it.
Buy: Rothenburg blow torch, small pot of flux, reel of solder, pipe cleaning brush, small box of abrasive tape, pipe cutter. Most expensive thing there is the Rothy.
Clean pipe to be soldered, test fit, remove, flux, refit, heat with Rothy - takes less than 10 secs. Apply solder to join, then it flows inside join through cappiliary action. Do a test before hand to practice on some scrap. The worst you can do is too much solder which leaves a harmless blob at the underside of the join.
A heat resistant rag is handy too.
Its really very easy. The keys (and I'm FAR from an expert) are: Clean before soldering, dont forget flux, don't try if pipe is wet inside (boil it off first). The solder "wants" to fill the join - it'll draw itelf upwards if need be.
I know its kit you might only use a few times, but even the 1st time is cheaper than a call out. :-)
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