Lopsided Wedge!!
Discussion
My car is slightly different on each side to, but this is because the body mould was slightly mismatched on both sides. I just recently put a new nose cone on my car too, and this too was different from side to side.
To check, get a ruler and measure the distance between the side stripe/"step" in the body, to the top of the front valance a the front of the car. Im guessing it will be about 3/4 of an inch different from one side to the other - seen loads of wedges like that, especially in 320i S2 guise and anything that used that mould.
Dan
To check, get a ruler and measure the distance between the side stripe/"step" in the body, to the top of the front valance a the front of the car. Im guessing it will be about 3/4 of an inch different from one side to the other - seen loads of wedges like that, especially in 320i S2 guise and anything that used that mould.
Dan
Whilst working on a 350 it was quite clear that one side had a lot more packing than the other.
Also a mate had a book on fibre glassing and quite a few photo's were taken at the TVR factory, probably early wedge production, but showing the patching up of the finished bodies after they had been popped out of the molds. Looked like a lot of filler being used
Also a mate had a book on fibre glassing and quite a few photo's were taken at the TVR factory, probably early wedge production, but showing the patching up of the finished bodies after they had been popped out of the molds. Looked like a lot of filler being used
There is no problem with cars down a fraction on the drivers side as long as it's not more than an inch or two - so says the garage I take the wedge to and I've been going there for over 20 years with the boss and his son running the place doing all sorts of classic/normal stuff - mine leans too !!
It seems this is not uncommon. Even after I lifted the body on mine after doing some work and replaced all the packers it still looked lower on the drivers side. I measured everything, chassis to floor, body to floor,chassis to body etc etc and came to the conclusion that it's just the way they are. I would measure the distance from the chassis to floor. If this is OK then it's not going to be the springs/suspension.
adam quantrill said:
I saw a recent classic car mag that warns people off buying when the height is uneven. Now we all know that problem is quite common and usually nothing to worry about, but it might be one reason that the market has been slack - buyers being put off by uneven ride heights...
With a separate frame like TVR have, it is normally no problem. You realy need to worry when a cars body acts also as a chassis (like all modern tin boxes) and you have different heights. For me TVR having a separate chassis was an additional reason to see a purchase as sensible (yes I know I am not), as well as having a non-stressed glasfibre body (unlike the original Lotus Elan for example). I must say that mine is ok, but I haven't taken any measurments.
Rob
Mine is in bits at the moment for the very same reason. Springs are really rusty and driver side one is about 1/4 inch lower than new one (which through the car can give a bigger illusion) Also new springs are mucher firmer so therefore should support car better. A good eyeball for chassis/body alignment is to jack it up evenly, support it evenly remove wheels and check the distances between the chassis and body in the wheel arches. The results of the suspension rebuild are yet to be confirmed but will post on completion. I have to say though that whatever the result it will be worth doing the work, one less worry for the future!!!1
wedgtable said:
Mine is in bits at the moment for the very same reason. Springs are really rusty and driver side one is about 1/4 inch lower than new one (which through the car can give a bigger illusion) Also new springs are mucher firmer so therefore should support car better. A good eyeball for chassis/body alignment is to jack it up evenly, support it evenly remove wheels and check the distances between the chassis and body in the wheel arches. The results of the suspension rebuild are yet to be confirmed but will post on completion. I have to say though that whatever the result it will be worth doing the work, one less worry for the future!!!1
I would be careful with the new springs, after fitting all my front suspension back on with new HD springs it had the ground clearence of a monster truck! on contacting the supplier I was told to cut the springs down but I decided to put the originals back on which are currently at the powder coaters, I wasn't pleased!
Andy
AM400 said:
Mine is in bits at the moment for the very same reason. Springs are really rusty and driver side one is about 1/4 inch lower than new one (which through the car can give a bigger illusion) Also new springs are mucher firmer so therefore should support car better. A good eyeball for chassis/body alignment is to jack it up evenly, support it evenly remove wheels and check the distances between the chassis and body in the wheel arches. The results of the suspension rebuild are yet to be confirmed but will post on completion. I have to say though that whatever the result it will be worth doing the work, one less worry for the future!!!1
I would be careful with the new springs, after fitting all my front suspension back on with new HD springs it had the ground clearence of a monster truck! on contacting the supplier I was told to cut the springs down but I decided to put the originals back on which are currently at the powder coaters, I wasn't pleased!
Andy
Oh dear!!! no you have me worried. I did get the springs from tvr car parts!!! and they are not that much different in height. ( am I just trying to convince myself!!!)
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