Petrol chainsaw advice
Discussion
Hi there,
I did search and read a recent helpful thread, but I would be grateful for some specific advice on the following;
I've recently moved to a great cottage in the country, which is right next to a smallish wood with quite a few fallen trees. The landowner/estate factor is happy for me to cut up the trees and use them as firewood so I am looking to buy a petrol chainsaw and safety gear.
I have a propensity to go for "decent" tools so started looking at Stihl, but then saw reviews for much cheaper chainsaws (Hyundai 62cc 20") which get good reviews. What do I really need? The Stihl saws in my budget are 14"/30cc; will this be enough for the kind of work I need it for?
Thanks in advance.
I did search and read a recent helpful thread, but I would be grateful for some specific advice on the following;
I've recently moved to a great cottage in the country, which is right next to a smallish wood with quite a few fallen trees. The landowner/estate factor is happy for me to cut up the trees and use them as firewood so I am looking to buy a petrol chainsaw and safety gear.
I have a propensity to go for "decent" tools so started looking at Stihl, but then saw reviews for much cheaper chainsaws (Hyundai 62cc 20") which get good reviews. What do I really need? The Stihl saws in my budget are 14"/30cc; will this be enough for the kind of work I need it for?
Thanks in advance.
Stihl is a great one, even secondhand if needed.
If your new, limit yourself to strict small chunks of time initially (so you don’t get tired and make any mistakes) and spend as much as you can on PPE and handling materials to stay safe. Let folks know you are out working and to check on you regularly.
Sounds a bit melodramatic but one slip with a decent chain saw or bad attack can change your day very quickly!
If there is a local firm that offers the service, consider getting them round for a few hours and learn the ropes from them / see what kit they use.
If your new, limit yourself to strict small chunks of time initially (so you don’t get tired and make any mistakes) and spend as much as you can on PPE and handling materials to stay safe. Let folks know you are out working and to check on you regularly.
Sounds a bit melodramatic but one slip with a decent chain saw or bad attack can change your day very quickly!
If there is a local firm that offers the service, consider getting them round for a few hours and learn the ropes from them / see what kit they use.
Avoid the Hyundai saws or any of their equipment. Whilst they may make good cars their power tools are terrible and I know of 3 people who have had tools made by them which have all failed within a year.
Chainsaw wise, go second hand Stihl and no bigger than a 261 which is a 50cc saw. The 180/181 is a decent enough saw but is built to a price, whereas a larger second hand saw such as a 261 will be far better long term.
Chainsaw wise, go second hand Stihl and no bigger than a 261 which is a 50cc saw. The 180/181 is a decent enough saw but is built to a price, whereas a larger second hand saw such as a 261 will be far better long term.
IMO, definitely Stihl. They are the most fixable chainsaws out there if you're buying petrol. They're well made and parts are readily available. Husqvarna a fairly close second. If you're going to buy one, learn how to sharpen the chain if you don't already know how to. A sharp quality chain (e.g., Oregon) makes all the difference. Loads of YouTube vids about this. Again IMO, run it on Aspen fuel. It doesn't mess with carbs. Clean the main body frequently and make sure the air filter and cylinder fins are clear of sawdust.
I run a side hustle in chainsaw repair and I love working on Stihl; I'm OK with working on Husqvarna; everything else is hit or miss.
If you're buying electric ignore everything I've said.
I run a side hustle in chainsaw repair and I love working on Stihl; I'm OK with working on Husqvarna; everything else is hit or miss.
If you're buying electric ignore everything I've said.
w1bbles said:
IMO, definitely Stihl. They are the most fixable chainsaws out there if you're buying petrol. They're well made and parts are readily available. Husqvarna a fairly close second. If you're going to buy one, learn how to sharpen the chain if you don't already know how to. A sharp quality chain (e.g., Oregon) makes all the difference. Loads of YouTube vids about this. Again IMO, run it on Aspen fuel. It doesn't mess with carbs. Clean the main body frequently and make sure the air filter and cylinder fins are clear of sawdust.
I run a side hustle in chainsaw repair and I love working on Stihl; I'm OK with working on Husqvarna; everything else is hit or miss.
If you're buying electric ignore everything I've said.
Definitely, chain sharpening is absolutely crucial and not only means you are cutting wood efficiently but also safely.I run a side hustle in chainsaw repair and I love working on Stihl; I'm OK with working on Husqvarna; everything else is hit or miss.
If you're buying electric ignore everything I've said.
I have my own tree surgery business and we all use Stihl (with the exception of one guy who uses Husqvarna) in all manner of sizes and totally agree about spares. L&S Engineers online are very good for spares as they have exploded diagrams of all saws, so ordering is very easy indeed.
I should also add that if you can get on a chainsaw course you probably should. I never did and I've learned through stupidity over the years. I've come close to injuring myself once, when I didn't read the pre-load/spring in a fallen tree. When it went it missed my head by about 6 inches and it could have killed me. It's not just the chainsaw itself that is dangerous.
If you're practical you'll probably work it out but sometimes I think I would have benefitted from someone who knew what they were doing giving me some lessons.
If you're practical you'll probably work it out but sometimes I think I would have benefitted from someone who knew what they were doing giving me some lessons.
robinh73 said:
Definitely, chain sharpening is absolutely crucial and not only means you are cutting wood efficiently but also safely.
I have my own tree surgery business and we all use Stihl (with the exception of one guy who uses Husqvarna) in all manner of sizes and totally agree about spares. L&S Engineers online are very good for spares as they have exploded diagrams of all saws, so ordering is very easy indeed.
Totally agree with this. I have a trade account with L&S and they are brilliant. Also, for the OP, I ignore all the chain sharpening 'devices' out there and just use a hand file by eye. It's much quicker and frankly gives a better finish.I have my own tree surgery business and we all use Stihl (with the exception of one guy who uses Husqvarna) in all manner of sizes and totally agree about spares. L&S Engineers online are very good for spares as they have exploded diagrams of all saws, so ordering is very easy indeed.
Edited by w1bbles on Wednesday 10th December 00:40
Having ran 2 small stihl petrol saws and had lots of problems (hot start, cold start, constant nose sprocket jams on ms250) with them i would get a Husqvarna 135 Mark II, Ran one of these (mk1 version) for about 6 years and many tonnes of fallen trees and branches and had zero issues with it, upgraded to a bigger engine when i needed a bigger bar, but keep the 135 as a backup.
Ask the local tree surgeons; it's more important to have whatever brand the best local dealer sells, who will maintain it properly, than to pick the best saw, although most will be using Husqvarna or Stihl. Obviously if the OP is going to service DIY then it's just down to what colour scheme they prefer. 
hidetheelephants said:
it's more important to have whatever brand the best local dealer sells, who will maintain it properly, than to pick the best saw, although most will be using Husqvarna or Stihl. Obviously if the OP is going to service DIY then it's just down to what colour scheme they prefer.
This ^^^. Don t go nuts on bar size. A decent 14 machine will be more useful and useable that a heavier 20 .
Also don t just go on cc. My 50cc saws, Husqvarna 545 mk2 and 550xp have approx 10% power difference between them: the xp being noticeably more powerful. Look at the specs carefully if you see two models of similar capacity. That said, if you can stretch to a decent 50 you re unlikely to regret it vs a 30 if you ve got a lot of wood to run at.
A sharp chain on a slightly smaller machine will serve you better than a dull one on a large machine.
If you’re using it infrequently, run on Aspen fuel to avoid it going off.
I live by a wood and use a log burner. My advice on petrol chainsaws is buy a battery one instead.
Less maintenance, less fuss, better performance. Downside is that for all day long professional use you would get through some batteries but for home owner stuff they are unbeatable.
This kind of kit is excellent, batteries are expensive but it balances out if you need other tools that can use the same ones.
https://dvspowertools.co.uk/shop/power-tools/garde...
Less maintenance, less fuss, better performance. Downside is that for all day long professional use you would get through some batteries but for home owner stuff they are unbeatable.
This kind of kit is excellent, batteries are expensive but it balances out if you need other tools that can use the same ones.
https://dvspowertools.co.uk/shop/power-tools/garde...
Steve H said:
I live by a wood and use a log burner. My advice on petrol chainsaws is buy a battery one instead.
Less maintenance, less fuss, better performance. Downside is that for all day long professional use you would get through some batteries but for home owner stuff they are unbeatable.
This kind of kit is excellent, batteries are expensive but it balances out if you need other tools that can use the same ones.
https://dvspowertools.co.uk/shop/power-tools/garde...
My recommendation also.Less maintenance, less fuss, better performance. Downside is that for all day long professional use you would get through some batteries but for home owner stuff they are unbeatable.
This kind of kit is excellent, batteries are expensive but it balances out if you need other tools that can use the same ones.
https://dvspowertools.co.uk/shop/power-tools/garde...
We own a small bit of woodland and use deadfall tree’s/branches for firewood in a small log burner. Had two ‘budget’ and then one quality (Stihl) petrol chainsaws to collect/chop the logs - all three were a pain in the arse for such basic work.
Already had loads of LXT power tools so went the Makita electric chainsaw route - absolutely brilliant for our needs. The Stihl hasn’t been out of the shed in 3 years now.
It chews through battery’s on the bigger stuff (18” rounds) but 4 x 5AH batteries and a dual fast charger mean it’s never an issue.
Hi Tim - there'll be lots of advice on here about which chainsaw to buy, I ran Stihl for years.
The most important advice is to get someone who knows what they're doing to show you how to use one - otherwise you could end up with a life changing injury.
I am going to sound like an old man of the woods (which, to some degree I am), but every tree is different and they're all a bit unpredictable - how they can twist and turn... where you need to cut safely etc. Which part of the bar to use, under-cutting etc etc.
Please don't buy a chainsaw and rush out with it! It's not complicated, but there are things to know.
The most important advice is to get someone who knows what they're doing to show you how to use one - otherwise you could end up with a life changing injury.
I am going to sound like an old man of the woods (which, to some degree I am), but every tree is different and they're all a bit unpredictable - how they can twist and turn... where you need to cut safely etc. Which part of the bar to use, under-cutting etc etc.
Please don't buy a chainsaw and rush out with it! It's not complicated, but there are things to know.
Steve H said:
I live by a wood and use a log burner. My advice on petrol chainsaws is buy a battery one instead.
This 
We went with a Stihl AP powered saw, simply because that's the battery system we already have for hedge cutter/strimmer/blower.
6 years, and much cut wood later, I am very pleased with the choice. But I would say you still need the same PPE etc.
Husqvarna or Stihl - that's really the best answer, but be wary of buying used ones. They're reliable and very repairable, so quite often the ones being sold are proper f**ked.
I bought a new Husqvarna about 20 years ago, and with some basic care it still starts and runs like new. Modern equivalent is something like https://www.husqvarna.com/uk/chainsaws/135-mark-ii... which is big enough for chopping-up windfall trees unless you're in some Canadian wilderness.
I'd avoid battery for the sort of work you're suggesting, as unless you invest a small fortune in batteries you'll be standing around a lot.
On the fuel front, the main trick there is to drain the tank and run the carb dry when putting it away for any length of time.
I bought a new Husqvarna about 20 years ago, and with some basic care it still starts and runs like new. Modern equivalent is something like https://www.husqvarna.com/uk/chainsaws/135-mark-ii... which is big enough for chopping-up windfall trees unless you're in some Canadian wilderness.
I'd avoid battery for the sort of work you're suggesting, as unless you invest a small fortune in batteries you'll be standing around a lot.
On the fuel front, the main trick there is to drain the tank and run the carb dry when putting it away for any length of time.
I've got a 14" Stihl that I bought to tackle wood for our woodburner 20 years ago and it is still going strong.
I'm a bit lazy, so I never drain the fuel or run it dry, and I run it on normal unleaded with Screwfix two stroke oil. Despite sitting around for up to six months between uses, it always starts after a few pulls. I treat it to a new chain and air filter every few years. A decent chain sharpening file is essential.
Personally, apart for the noise, I can't see much benefit in an electric one, you just swap refuelling for swapping expensive batteries.
I'm a bit lazy, so I never drain the fuel or run it dry, and I run it on normal unleaded with Screwfix two stroke oil. Despite sitting around for up to six months between uses, it always starts after a few pulls. I treat it to a new chain and air filter every few years. A decent chain sharpening file is essential.
Personally, apart for the noise, I can't see much benefit in an electric one, you just swap refuelling for swapping expensive batteries.
I've got a 14" Makita petrol.
Had it 20 years, get's filled up with any old fuel lying around, never gets cleaned/ serviced. Starts first time every time no matter how long it's been lying around in the shed and runs as sweet as the day I got it.
It's is a 2T though so very simple. MY tip would be never ever go to close to the ground with a cut. Guaranteed to wreck/blunt your chain
Every man should have a petrol chain saw whether he needs one or not.
Had it 20 years, get's filled up with any old fuel lying around, never gets cleaned/ serviced. Starts first time every time no matter how long it's been lying around in the shed and runs as sweet as the day I got it.
It's is a 2T though so very simple. MY tip would be never ever go to close to the ground with a cut. Guaranteed to wreck/blunt your chain
Every man should have a petrol chain saw whether he needs one or not.
NDA said:
Hi Tim - there'll be lots of advice on here about which chainsaw to buy, I ran Stihl for years.
The most important advice is to get someone who knows what they're doing to show you how to use one - otherwise you could end up with a life changing injury.
I am going to sound like an old man of the woods (which, to some degree I am), but every tree is different and they're all a bit unpredictable - how they can twist and turn... where you need to cut safely etc. Which part of the bar to use, under-cutting etc etc.
Please don't buy a chainsaw and rush out with it! It's not complicated, but there are things to know.
Sound advice.The most important advice is to get someone who knows what they're doing to show you how to use one - otherwise you could end up with a life changing injury.
I am going to sound like an old man of the woods (which, to some degree I am), but every tree is different and they're all a bit unpredictable - how they can twist and turn... where you need to cut safely etc. Which part of the bar to use, under-cutting etc etc.
Please don't buy a chainsaw and rush out with it! It's not complicated, but there are things to know.
For me, the best thing about my first petrol chainsaw was buying from a local dealer who offered a basic safe user course with the saw. Not for felling, I’ve no desire or need to do that, but for cutting up in the woods or on the saw horse. Just because they’re on the ground doesn’t mean you don’t need to think about how best to cut and how they might react when cut.
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