Renovation - Wrap Copper Pipes?
Discussion
I'm renovating a house using copper pipes for the plumbing
I'm aware of wrapping / sleeving in concrete but do I need to do them in the chases down the blockwork (80's thin black blocks) the plumber says you do as modern plaster / bonding is more alkaline and modern copper is thinner
If I need to wrap them, I'm aware of denso but neither of us want to use it - will electrical / foil / duct tape do ?
I don't recall ever seeing wrapped pipes over than in concrete and air felt backing in new builds of the 90's
I'm aware of wrapping / sleeving in concrete but do I need to do them in the chases down the blockwork (80's thin black blocks) the plumber says you do as modern plaster / bonding is more alkaline and modern copper is thinner
If I need to wrap them, I'm aware of denso but neither of us want to use it - will electrical / foil / duct tape do ?
I don't recall ever seeing wrapped pipes over than in concrete and air felt backing in new builds of the 90's
It comes down to how sure you want to be that the job will last 20, 30, 40 years.
I've a few mates with old cottages where central heating systems are now looking a bit sordid, I guess these were mostly put in in the 70s or 80s so have lasted reasonably.
Plastic plumbing can be an option.
Running the copper tube inside plastic conduit is another way.
Adhesive-lined heat shrink might be an option?
For the copper to corrode, it needs alkaline material in contact, plus moisture. But the tiniest leak (e.g. weeping rad valve) or even summer condensation on the pipe can be enough moisture.
I've a few mates with old cottages where central heating systems are now looking a bit sordid, I guess these were mostly put in in the 70s or 80s so have lasted reasonably.
Plastic plumbing can be an option.
Running the copper tube inside plastic conduit is another way.
Adhesive-lined heat shrink might be an option?
For the copper to corrode, it needs alkaline material in contact, plus moisture. But the tiniest leak (e.g. weeping rad valve) or even summer condensation on the pipe can be enough moisture.
Depends if you want to allow for some movement as pipes straight into plaster tend to crack it as it expands.
You could spray it with zinc spray for some protection then wrap it in duct tape - it would work. Or use the plastic/felt sleeving. Or you could buy pre coated pipe. Or you could run it in a plastic conduit. Or put it inside a thin insulation & tape the joints. All sorts of options exist that are better than bare copper in plaster, just depends on time/budget/space.
You could spray it with zinc spray for some protection then wrap it in duct tape - it would work. Or use the plastic/felt sleeving. Or you could buy pre coated pipe. Or you could run it in a plastic conduit. Or put it inside a thin insulation & tape the joints. All sorts of options exist that are better than bare copper in plaster, just depends on time/budget/space.
https://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Felt-Pipe-Sleeving...
I buried the downstairs toilet pipes in the wall and I just packed the chase with felt pipe sleeving over the top of the pipe and then plastered over.
The felt kept the plaster off the pipe and more importantly provided for thermal expansion.
I buried the downstairs toilet pipes in the wall and I just packed the chase with felt pipe sleeving over the top of the pipe and then plastered over.
The felt kept the plaster off the pipe and more importantly provided for thermal expansion.
Yes wrap it will pinhole eventually if left long enough (20+ years). I got some pvc coated 10mm copper when i did the drops in my old stone cottage. Went from 15mm copper into 10mm copper for the vertical runs in the wall then back out into 15mm copper before it became visible again. Cap it as well with electrician plastic capping as well or it will crack the plaster.
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