Just had an excellent week's holiday... in London
Discussion
As this is mainly a British site I though it might be fun to give a foreigner’s view of going the other way, a week’s holiday in London.
Leaving a very snowy Toronto for London I was of course aware that I would have my watch lifted, my phone ripped from my hands, maybe a light mugging; aware that of course London is not what it used to be, terrible traffic, all Sadiq Khan’s fault.
Or maybe not
I first went to London in 1962 at the age of 14- got the cattle boat from Ireland, lied about my age and started to work in factories to pay for my education. I did that for six summers, not student stuff but places that paid properly. While I got to know the geography it was not an introduction to the high life, though at the end of the summer I went into the city to buy a few clothes, Kings Road ,.Carnaby Street and all that stuff as time went by.
Since then I have been back from Canada many, many times;London has some of the world’s greatest art and theatre and in more recent times some superb restaurants also. I have stayed in some very ratty places in my early years, then some of the big chains like Hilton and also the more well-appointed places like Claridge’s and the like.
On board the plane we taxied past an MD11 from UPS, now dark and grounded by the FAA as an engine fell off one and the plane crashed on takeoff, killing the crew and a number of people on the ground. I also passed a parked Antonov 24, huge thing that has been impounded since the beginning of the Ukraine invasion. Unexpected things happen. Settled in and slept most of the way.
Heathrow was a doddle with the new ETAIS visa, straight through, grabbed luggage and into a cab. Headed for the hotel.
Leaving a very snowy Toronto for London I was of course aware that I would have my watch lifted, my phone ripped from my hands, maybe a light mugging; aware that of course London is not what it used to be, terrible traffic, all Sadiq Khan’s fault.
Or maybe not
I first went to London in 1962 at the age of 14- got the cattle boat from Ireland, lied about my age and started to work in factories to pay for my education. I did that for six summers, not student stuff but places that paid properly. While I got to know the geography it was not an introduction to the high life, though at the end of the summer I went into the city to buy a few clothes, Kings Road ,.Carnaby Street and all that stuff as time went by.
Since then I have been back from Canada many, many times;London has some of the world’s greatest art and theatre and in more recent times some superb restaurants also. I have stayed in some very ratty places in my early years, then some of the big chains like Hilton and also the more well-appointed places like Claridge’s and the like.
On board the plane we taxied past an MD11 from UPS, now dark and grounded by the FAA as an engine fell off one and the plane crashed on takeoff, killing the crew and a number of people on the ground. I also passed a parked Antonov 24, huge thing that has been impounded since the beginning of the Ukraine invasion. Unexpected things happen. Settled in and slept most of the way.
Heathrow was a doddle with the new ETAIS visa, straight through, grabbed luggage and into a cab. Headed for the hotel.
The Hotel:
The Mandarin Oriental in Hanover Square is so small On the right of the pic)you can miss it if you blink. Very modern ,only three floors of guest rooms, brilliant service. This is a very comfortable place and I got a nice room upgrade. Mandarins are generally places that avoid local colour, to no British prints, old mouldings etc.
Interestingly the reception warned us about phones, watches etc in the area. As it happens in any big city I do not wear a good watch, generally carry only a couple of credit cards and if my phone is ripped off that’s life. I have been pickpocketed in Chicago and had my phone lifted in Berlin. London does not seem particularly dangerous to me if you’re sensible.
Restaurant was good though only used it for breakfast which was normal British breakfast with lots of options, perfectly presented. Tried room service for breakfast first morning and it was quick and not cold as often seem to be the case. Only negative was the rooftop bar which had a driving techno beat music that was irritating.
The Mandarin Oriental in Hanover Square is so small On the right of the pic)you can miss it if you blink. Very modern ,only three floors of guest rooms, brilliant service. This is a very comfortable place and I got a nice room upgrade. Mandarins are generally places that avoid local colour, to no British prints, old mouldings etc.
Interestingly the reception warned us about phones, watches etc in the area. As it happens in any big city I do not wear a good watch, generally carry only a couple of credit cards and if my phone is ripped off that’s life. I have been pickpocketed in Chicago and had my phone lifted in Berlin. London does not seem particularly dangerous to me if you’re sensible.
Restaurant was good though only used it for breakfast which was normal British breakfast with lots of options, perfectly presented. Tried room service for breakfast first morning and it was quick and not cold as often seem to be the case. Only negative was the rooftop bar which had a driving techno beat music that was irritating.
Location is great if you want to take a walk around the shops; impressive that just about every watch manufacturer I have ever heard of has an outlet here, one after the other right up to Richard Mille ( not that I like RM).
Good to see that the excellent British tradition of pubs allowing people to drink outside on the street has continued uninterrupted though in the old days everyone smoked. This would not be allowed in the vast majority of places in North America.
There are still a few unmistakably British modes of dress, though this seems to be the exception rather than the rule
A visit to Fortnum was entertaining - saw the new “by appointment “sign now updated for Charles; most places still have the older Elizabeth sign. Silly prices for food though.
Odd that they used raccoons for their window display. We have tons of the buggers, maybe 50 on our street in Toronto.
Good to see that the excellent British tradition of pubs allowing people to drink outside on the street has continued uninterrupted though in the old days everyone smoked. This would not be allowed in the vast majority of places in North America.
There are still a few unmistakably British modes of dress, though this seems to be the exception rather than the rule
A visit to Fortnum was entertaining - saw the new “by appointment “sign now updated for Charles; most places still have the older Elizabeth sign. Silly prices for food though.
Odd that they used raccoons for their window display. We have tons of the buggers, maybe 50 on our street in Toronto.
Food:
I will not review Pret à Manger or the like but there were some very good meals indeed.
A.Wong
This was the only Michelin two star of the week and was indeed very good, I suspect a very rare achievement for a Chinese restaurant. Great service, flexible though basically a tasting menu. I thin kmy only reservation was the concentration on very expensive ingredients…lots of truffles and caviar rather than stretching the kitchen with more basic fare; still, can see the two star.
BiBI:
An Indian fusion restaurant and simply amazing, In my view a more memorable place that Wong. The flavours are unmistakably Indian but a huge distance from the normal Indian food I sometimes get in Canada and have had in India. This place should be three star. Not as visually striking as Wong but absolutely magnificent. Expensive but worth it.
Chinatown:
As it happens Toronto has superb Chinese food as there is a large expat community and it is not expensive. It has been decades since I have been in Chinatown. Went to place called Four Seasons and based on that it will be decades before I go back. How can you screw up hot and sour soup?..Overall bad but cheap.
The Grenadier:
One of my favourite pubs in Belgravia for decades now. As I recalled it had been bought by Sir Jim Ratcliffe as it was his local, hence the name of the Ineos Grenadier. There is one discreet picture of a Grenadier on the wall and a couple of vehicles parked down the street but it was unchanged, had good beer and an excellent plate of fish and chips.
The Devonshire:
A very popular pub and restaurant, this one. Quite crowded but got some seats without difficulty. I had not had a pint of Guinness since visiting the brewery about 20 years ago in Dublin. The reputation is that this place has separate lines just for the Guinness and careful cooling. The Guinness was indeed perfect, smooth, the right temperature. If you like Guinness this is a must .
Food upstairs is of excellent quality, ( they have their own butcher on premises). It is very traditional British food, grilled meat, mushy peas, creamed leeks and the like. It is MUCH better than the plain appearance and service is very good though the place it hectic and noisy. Definitely worth the money.
I will not review Pret à Manger or the like but there were some very good meals indeed.
A.Wong
This was the only Michelin two star of the week and was indeed very good, I suspect a very rare achievement for a Chinese restaurant. Great service, flexible though basically a tasting menu. I thin kmy only reservation was the concentration on very expensive ingredients…lots of truffles and caviar rather than stretching the kitchen with more basic fare; still, can see the two star.
BiBI:
An Indian fusion restaurant and simply amazing, In my view a more memorable place that Wong. The flavours are unmistakably Indian but a huge distance from the normal Indian food I sometimes get in Canada and have had in India. This place should be three star. Not as visually striking as Wong but absolutely magnificent. Expensive but worth it.
Chinatown:
As it happens Toronto has superb Chinese food as there is a large expat community and it is not expensive. It has been decades since I have been in Chinatown. Went to place called Four Seasons and based on that it will be decades before I go back. How can you screw up hot and sour soup?..Overall bad but cheap.
The Grenadier:
One of my favourite pubs in Belgravia for decades now. As I recalled it had been bought by Sir Jim Ratcliffe as it was his local, hence the name of the Ineos Grenadier. There is one discreet picture of a Grenadier on the wall and a couple of vehicles parked down the street but it was unchanged, had good beer and an excellent plate of fish and chips.
The Devonshire:
A very popular pub and restaurant, this one. Quite crowded but got some seats without difficulty. I had not had a pint of Guinness since visiting the brewery about 20 years ago in Dublin. The reputation is that this place has separate lines just for the Guinness and careful cooling. The Guinness was indeed perfect, smooth, the right temperature. If you like Guinness this is a must .
Food upstairs is of excellent quality, ( they have their own butcher on premises). It is very traditional British food, grilled meat, mushy peas, creamed leeks and the like. It is MUCH better than the plain appearance and service is very good though the place it hectic and noisy. Definitely worth the money.
Theatre:
Went to see Arcadia, an early Tom Stoppard play; it seemed as if every second theatre had some kind of American musical or roadshow; I wanted something British.
Generally London has some of the best productions and greatest actors on the planet and I have had unforgettable evening of theatre.
This was not one. I was not impressed by the cast who seems under-rehearsed,, though it might be me as it has been praised by the critics.
Went to see Arcadia, an early Tom Stoppard play; it seemed as if every second theatre had some kind of American musical or roadshow; I wanted something British.
Generally London has some of the best productions and greatest actors on the planet and I have had unforgettable evening of theatre.
This was not one. I was not impressed by the cast who seems under-rehearsed,, though it might be me as it has been praised by the critics.
Art:
A very good week indeed; as always London has fascinating art exhibits, sometimes in private galleries.
Of the best stuff, went to the National Portrait Gallery to see the portrait photographer is the year awards. This was frankly disappointing as there seems to have been an attempt to be very inclusive and in doing so, many pictures required explanation of the subject and the context. I prefer a picture to speak for itself.
However the permanent collection is simply unparalleled, one picture better than the other. A couple of brilliant David Hockney paintings, a sculpture of Tim Berners Lee, Anna Wintour and countless others. This is the best portrait gallery on the planet in my view.
Over in the National Gallery there was an exhibit of Impressionists from the Kroller-Muller collection wth some extraordinary Seurats.
Never noticed the statue of George Washington outside before. Apparently a gift from the state of Virginia; however, he had vowed never to set foot on British soil again so they brought soil from Virginia on which the statue was set.
A very good week indeed; as always London has fascinating art exhibits, sometimes in private galleries.
Of the best stuff, went to the National Portrait Gallery to see the portrait photographer is the year awards. This was frankly disappointing as there seems to have been an attempt to be very inclusive and in doing so, many pictures required explanation of the subject and the context. I prefer a picture to speak for itself.
However the permanent collection is simply unparalleled, one picture better than the other. A couple of brilliant David Hockney paintings, a sculpture of Tim Berners Lee, Anna Wintour and countless others. This is the best portrait gallery on the planet in my view.
Over in the National Gallery there was an exhibit of Impressionists from the Kroller-Muller collection wth some extraordinary Seurats.
Never noticed the statue of George Washington outside before. Apparently a gift from the state of Virginia; however, he had vowed never to set foot on British soil again so they brought soil from Virginia on which the statue was set.
There's a lot of hatred on PH for London (or is it jealousy), but for those of us who live here, you're preaching to the converted. It's a brilliant city. I was born here, and I'm 63 now and apart from my 3 wilderness years, I've lived here all my life. I'll never leave. Now I'm retired and have more time to myself, I love it more than ever.
TwigtheWonderkid said:
There's a lot of hatred on PH for London (or is it jealousy), but for those of us who live here, you're preaching to the converted. It's a brilliant city. I was born here, and I'm 63 now and apart from my 3 wilderness years, I've lived here all my life. I'll never leave. Now I'm retired and have more time to myself, I love it more than ever.
Not just those who live in London (although I did grow up nearby). I maintain London is one of, if not the, best city in the world all things considered. It's not perfect, but if you make the effort to get under it's skin, there is nowhere else like it.Don't want to derail the thread, but have to mention transport and how much it's improved over the years.
Yesterday I needed to be in Reading (
) for the morning but getting back, I was on the Reading station platform at 12.00 and back through my front door in North East London at 1.00pm.
Fast train and Elizabeth Line, but even so, that impressed me.
/derail (
)
Yesterday I needed to be in Reading (
) for the morning but getting back, I was on the Reading station platform at 12.00 and back through my front door in North East London at 1.00pm. Fast train and Elizabeth Line, but even so, that impressed me.
/derail (
)Best of all, however was the Saatchi Gallery, a place I have visited many times in the past. Always original, uncompromisingly modern.
The current exhibition entitle the Long Now was a view into the future and quite disturbing. Brilliant animations which I cannot show here but hypnotic stuff. One brilliant fifteen minute AI-assisted animation shows ghostly sea creatures swimming among the remains of human civilization, now just fossils and artifacts:
Another which I had seen before is a huge bath of oil ( the windows have been sealed), with a passageway that narrows at the apex. It is waist high and you can walk out into a perfect reflection.. People did this and I took a few images:
The current exhibition entitle the Long Now was a view into the future and quite disturbing. Brilliant animations which I cannot show here but hypnotic stuff. One brilliant fifteen minute AI-assisted animation shows ghostly sea creatures swimming among the remains of human civilization, now just fossils and artifacts:
Another which I had seen before is a huge bath of oil ( the windows have been sealed), with a passageway that narrows at the apex. It is waist high and you can walk out into a perfect reflection.. People did this and I took a few images:
OK,enough art and culture,- this is a car site after all.
Apart from watch shops Mayfair is choc-a-bloc with expensive automobile showrooms, Rolls , Bentley, Ferrari , Lambo, Lotus, plus oddballs like MG and lately BYD. Although I am personally a Porsche fan I did not make that showroom:
The Ferrari showroom had my favourite, a half scale replica of a Testa Rossa. I have seen a couple of the real cars up close so posting a shot I took a few years ago in Philadelphia;
Apart from watch shops Mayfair is choc-a-bloc with expensive automobile showrooms, Rolls , Bentley, Ferrari , Lambo, Lotus, plus oddballs like MG and lately BYD. Although I am personally a Porsche fan I did not make that showroom:
The Ferrari showroom had my favourite, a half scale replica of a Testa Rossa. I have seen a couple of the real cars up close so posting a shot I took a few years ago in Philadelphia;
It is notthe season for interesting cars on the road; I did see a parked Bentley Continental T, (one of my dream cars) but I was in a cab and did not have time to get a shot. However I did see a Porsche Dakar driven by a young woman. I wonder if if will ever go off road:
Edited by RDMcG on Thursday 12th February 19:21
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