Any love for an Outback?
Discussion
Still dribbling about looking for something and a local 2004 Outback 3.0Rn has popped up for sale for less than a grand with 150k miles on it.
Loads of history and cleanish Mot history but having never owned a Subaru, have no knowledge if it s a good idea or not!
Current owner has had it for nearly 15 years
Anything to look out for or just avoid?
Loads of history and cleanish Mot history but having never owned a Subaru, have no knowledge if it s a good idea or not!
Current owner has had it for nearly 15 years
Anything to look out for or just avoid?
Edited by 119 on Monday 2nd March 08:21
Other than doing the usual checks such as ensuring that the gearbox works smoothly and that there are no nasty noises or smoke coming out of the engine etc the main things to check for are rust and the health of the engine.
Subarus tend to rust from the inside out so check under the body with particular attention to the sills, rear arches and radiator support bar.
At 150k the normally strong, reliable EZ30 engine may be showing signs of age. One major issue they may develope is head gasket failure which is expensive to fix. Check the coolant level in the rad under the cap with the engine cold. If it's not right at the top then be cautious about proceeding with the car. Also look for signs that coolant has been overflowing from the expansion tank, as well as the usual checks under the oil filler cap and the colour of the coolant.
On the EZ30 the signs of HG failure can be very subtle. The exhaust gases can overpressure the coolant system and force coolant out of the expansion tank over a long drive, which might not be noticeable on a short test drive.
Take the car for a long test drive and see how it goes.
Don't be too put off though if the car seems alright - Subarus tend to be reliable in general but for car of this age and mileage you'll have to budget for periodic maintenance and replacement of worn parts.
Subarus tend to rust from the inside out so check under the body with particular attention to the sills, rear arches and radiator support bar.
At 150k the normally strong, reliable EZ30 engine may be showing signs of age. One major issue they may develope is head gasket failure which is expensive to fix. Check the coolant level in the rad under the cap with the engine cold. If it's not right at the top then be cautious about proceeding with the car. Also look for signs that coolant has been overflowing from the expansion tank, as well as the usual checks under the oil filler cap and the colour of the coolant.
On the EZ30 the signs of HG failure can be very subtle. The exhaust gases can overpressure the coolant system and force coolant out of the expansion tank over a long drive, which might not be noticeable on a short test drive.
Take the car for a long test drive and see how it goes.
Don't be too put off though if the car seems alright - Subarus tend to be reliable in general but for car of this age and mileage you'll have to budget for periodic maintenance and replacement of worn parts.
I didn't have an Outback but I did love my MY05 3.0 Legacy Rn which I kept until it had done around 125K miles.
I had to change the following:
Exhaust Y-section which had rotted away at the junction between the two outlets. A stainless replacement from H&S was not cheap but worthwhile to never have that issue again.
Rear hubs - the bearings had gone and the replacements include the whole hub. They were surprisingly cheap if you know what part you need and are prepared to fit them yourself.
Rear springs went soft but probably because I used to overload it for camping. I think the Outback has air springs or some sort of self-levelling. Please check this. Air springs are brilliant and very easy to change if you have to.
Fitted a towbar myself. Piece of cake and so worthwhile. The Legacy (of that era) can tow something like 1800Kg so it's pretty useful but most useful to carry bikes on the back.
Then it's just brake discs and pads, and other consumables.
As noted, it's a little thirsty but I loved that engine. The 5-speed auto is a little old fashioned but it never went wrong. The car would drive around the outside of other cars in the rain, snow and ice. It was so sure-footed.
I had to change the following:
Exhaust Y-section which had rotted away at the junction between the two outlets. A stainless replacement from H&S was not cheap but worthwhile to never have that issue again.
Rear hubs - the bearings had gone and the replacements include the whole hub. They were surprisingly cheap if you know what part you need and are prepared to fit them yourself.
Rear springs went soft but probably because I used to overload it for camping. I think the Outback has air springs or some sort of self-levelling. Please check this. Air springs are brilliant and very easy to change if you have to.
Fitted a towbar myself. Piece of cake and so worthwhile. The Legacy (of that era) can tow something like 1800Kg so it's pretty useful but most useful to carry bikes on the back.
Then it's just brake discs and pads, and other consumables.
As noted, it's a little thirsty but I loved that engine. The 5-speed auto is a little old fashioned but it never went wrong. The car would drive around the outside of other cars in the rain, snow and ice. It was so sure-footed.
If its seen some decent servicing it should be good, all Subarus with any performance to speak of like a drink, expect around 18 localish 23/25 longer runs, doubt you'll see 30mpg unless Miss Daisy style.
The engine should idle smoothly without any signs of vibration, one LPG'd 2005 version we looked at the flashlube bottle was empty, seller hadn't a clue what it was or what it was for, that engine was vibrating and/or missing slightly once warm suggesting to me valve seat recession the fixing of which would be very involved.
As said rust underbody is the biggie, brakes on all Japanese cars need regular proper serviciing or they'll seize, the typical workshop practice of squirting brake cleaner all over the place only serves to remove any remaining lube a mechanic might once have applied.
I had the previous model H6 ('99 to 2003 ish), and on those the CATs sat just above (edit, below you plonker) the inner CV joints the extra heat perishing them both, that was the case on the one i bought unseen off ebay, however replacing the inner boots was a doddle because the output shafts don't need to come out of the gearbox, the drive shafts being splined to the output shafts which are held together by roll pins which drift easily out.
The entire driveshaft can be serviced because all CV's are held on the shaft with circlips, you should never need to replace an Outback/Legacy driveshaft.
Allow half a day to change the plugs using multiple combinations of extensions and several different plug sockets, a couple of weeks or more for the multiple lacerations on your hands and wrists to fade, i found it easier on the Outback to change the plugs from underneath without raising the engine off its mounts, on the SG9 Forester its almost impossible to change the plugs without raising the engine a few inches off its mounts and the job must be done from above.
Chain cam drive on the H6, all should be quiet, it would be one hell of a job to do so listen for any rattles.
Subarus apart from engine work are a delight to work on.
If the exhaust is suspect you can buy cheap replacements, but if its a keeper MIJ at Walsall will make and fit a stainless for considerably less than the dealer wants for the genuine, the pre 2004 H6 model single pipe exhaust cannot be replaced by any aftermarket system correctly (thought the smaller 2.5 NA system easily found aftermarket can be made to fit), the genuine article has a trick by-pass on the main silencer so when exahust pressure reaches a certain point that silencer goes at least part straight through, you don't want to even guess how much that one is from the dealer More than i paid for the car), MIJ did a cat back for under £300.
The engine should idle smoothly without any signs of vibration, one LPG'd 2005 version we looked at the flashlube bottle was empty, seller hadn't a clue what it was or what it was for, that engine was vibrating and/or missing slightly once warm suggesting to me valve seat recession the fixing of which would be very involved.
As said rust underbody is the biggie, brakes on all Japanese cars need regular proper serviciing or they'll seize, the typical workshop practice of squirting brake cleaner all over the place only serves to remove any remaining lube a mechanic might once have applied.
I had the previous model H6 ('99 to 2003 ish), and on those the CATs sat just above (edit, below you plonker) the inner CV joints the extra heat perishing them both, that was the case on the one i bought unseen off ebay, however replacing the inner boots was a doddle because the output shafts don't need to come out of the gearbox, the drive shafts being splined to the output shafts which are held together by roll pins which drift easily out.
The entire driveshaft can be serviced because all CV's are held on the shaft with circlips, you should never need to replace an Outback/Legacy driveshaft.
Allow half a day to change the plugs using multiple combinations of extensions and several different plug sockets, a couple of weeks or more for the multiple lacerations on your hands and wrists to fade, i found it easier on the Outback to change the plugs from underneath without raising the engine off its mounts, on the SG9 Forester its almost impossible to change the plugs without raising the engine a few inches off its mounts and the job must be done from above.
Chain cam drive on the H6, all should be quiet, it would be one hell of a job to do so listen for any rattles.
Subarus apart from engine work are a delight to work on.
If the exhaust is suspect you can buy cheap replacements, but if its a keeper MIJ at Walsall will make and fit a stainless for considerably less than the dealer wants for the genuine, the pre 2004 H6 model single pipe exhaust cannot be replaced by any aftermarket system correctly (thought the smaller 2.5 NA system easily found aftermarket can be made to fit), the genuine article has a trick by-pass on the main silencer so when exahust pressure reaches a certain point that silencer goes at least part straight through, you don't want to even guess how much that one is from the dealer More than i paid for the car), MIJ did a cat back for under £300.
Edited by Smint on Thursday 5th March 09:40
Edited by Smint on Thursday 5th March 14:08
^^^ Oh yeah, brake callipers. I forgot about those. When my fronts seized, there were none on any parts shelves available so they had to send mine off for reconditioning which took about 10 days. I chose wrong when it came to my servicing agent at that time. I have a better one available to me now.
Also Powerflex aftermarket bushes, especially on the rear of the lower wishbone at the front of the car. Increases negative camber a little, which gave me more even tyre wear than previously. Well worthwhile.
Also Powerflex aftermarket bushes, especially on the rear of the lower wishbone at the front of the car. Increases negative camber a little, which gave me more even tyre wear than previously. Well worthwhile.
Thanks everyone.
Went to see it today and took it out and found the following:
Quite a whine coming from the front of the engine, but no obvious rattles on start up. The alternator sounded a bit rattly so I am wondering if the whine is that failing? After a test drive there was an odd kinda burning smell.
Felt like the gearbox was holding on to the gears too long but having never driven one, I don’t know if that’s correct or not?
Felt like it was in sport mode but don’t remember seeing the light on the cluster lit up!
Went to see it today and took it out and found the following:
Quite a whine coming from the front of the engine, but no obvious rattles on start up. The alternator sounded a bit rattly so I am wondering if the whine is that failing? After a test drive there was an odd kinda burning smell.
Felt like the gearbox was holding on to the gears too long but having never driven one, I don’t know if that’s correct or not?
Felt like it was in sport mode but don’t remember seeing the light on the cluster lit up!
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