Crease/dent question
Discussion
I hit an automatic barrier and it's creased the bonnet. The only bodyshop I've been to wanted to replace the bonnet and was racking up the costs. I plan to keep the car for a while then trade it in. It doesn't need to be perfect. Is there anyway to knock this dent out at all. It has t broken the paint. The only tricky thing is it's on the crease line of the bonnet. Any help appreciated. It's a 2017 Santa fe.
It can definitely be repaired, but the whole bonnet would need to be resprayed unfortunately, so you should be expecting quotes of around £500-£600 ballpark.
Is it a plain white colour or does it have metallics or pearls in it, as the damage is close to the wing, and there could be an issue with needing to blend into the wing to get a perfect match. If its just a solid white it shouldn't be an issue.
Is it a plain white colour or does it have metallics or pearls in it, as the damage is close to the wing, and there could be an issue with needing to blend into the wing to get a perfect match. If its just a solid white it shouldn't be an issue.
DaveF-SkinnysAutos said:
It can definitely be repaired, but the whole bonnet would need to be resprayed unfortunately, so you should be expecting quotes of around £500-£600 ballpark.
Is it a plain white colour or does it have metallics or pearls in it, as the damage is close to the wing, and there could be an issue with needing to blend into the wing to get a perfect match. If its just a solid white it shouldn't be an issue.
Why does it need respraying if the paint hasn't broken? Or is it simply your preference for approaching the repair?Is it a plain white colour or does it have metallics or pearls in it, as the damage is close to the wing, and there could be an issue with needing to blend into the wing to get a perfect match. If its just a solid white it shouldn't be an issue.
The only way to get the force to move that body line is grind the paint off and weld on pulling tabs.
In my experience glue tabs move soft dents but for anything major you need to weld tabs on and obviously that means removing paint. Also there is no way I could ever get a clean enough finish not to at least need a skim of filler as all the hammer and dolly work is going to cause marks.
In my experience glue tabs move soft dents but for anything major you need to weld tabs on and obviously that means removing paint. Also there is no way I could ever get a clean enough finish not to at least need a skim of filler as all the hammer and dolly work is going to cause marks.
I'd say its worth a go, PDR is like witchcraft these days.
It may not come back perfect but they'll make it a lot better, if they can get decent access to the back of it.
E.g from this:
I really didn't think it would be possible to get to this:
I got a bulk-buy discount, I paid them just shy of £300 to have the car for a day, start on that one and then see how many others they could sort. (I removed the door cards etc so they could spend the most time on the skilled stuff) in the end they removed that dent, three creases (the original owners driving, not mine
) and I think about 10 door dings.
Can't hurt to wash the area and take some hi-res photos to see what a few companies say.
It may not come back perfect but they'll make it a lot better, if they can get decent access to the back of it.
E.g from this:
I really didn't think it would be possible to get to this:
I got a bulk-buy discount, I paid them just shy of £300 to have the car for a day, start on that one and then see how many others they could sort. (I removed the door cards etc so they could spend the most time on the skilled stuff) in the end they removed that dent, three creases (the original owners driving, not mine
) and I think about 10 door dings. Can't hurt to wash the area and take some hi-res photos to see what a few companies say.
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