Discussion
Pleased to join Piston Heads
Iam the proud Owner of a TVR Chimaera. Around 16 years ago, with 2 young children, having purchased a ruin to live in, then having experianced a seizure and temporarily losing my license. I ''temporarily'' parked my TVR in my barn (kept dry). In the interveing years ''life happened''.
Every year i have planned to get her on the road again. I was hoping to send it off for reanimation. But ''life has happened again''. Need a new work transport car, so that budget has gone!. But Im not giving in, this year it happens, Im not a mechanic, but im not clueless so im going to do it myself. This is my plan and I invite comments.
1. Fuel tank emptied of old fuel and removed. Flexible fuel lines removed (advice on brands/type gratefully received). fuel filter replaced, fuel pump replaced. (i had an engine fire on an old horse box generator due to degraded lines-lesson learnt hard way)
2. Remove spark plugs. A little oil to sit in the bores for a week or so. Turn over gently over with a breaker bar 10-15 times.
3. Empty coolent, flush with an engine flush (brand?) refill. Oil Change.
4. New brake hoses, inspect disks - fairly rusty, see how they clean up with a wire brush, new caliper seals and put in new pads while im there.
5. change brake and clutch fluid.
6. new spark plugs, air filter, battery, alternator belt. Turn over with out plugs, turn over with plugs but no fuel to get oil moving around.
7.. fuel with some injector cleaner added. Hit the ignition.
She has very low mileage - she was never a work horse Summer weekender only. Hardly ever been wet. Always garaged. Bit concerned about rodent damage though not seen any.
8. New tyres (it has the original tyres i boughtit with in 1998!)
Obviously other rubber things may have perished, have to look out for those.
Any one have any advise / critisms / observations gratefully received.
Iam the proud Owner of a TVR Chimaera. Around 16 years ago, with 2 young children, having purchased a ruin to live in, then having experianced a seizure and temporarily losing my license. I ''temporarily'' parked my TVR in my barn (kept dry). In the interveing years ''life happened''.
Every year i have planned to get her on the road again. I was hoping to send it off for reanimation. But ''life has happened again''. Need a new work transport car, so that budget has gone!. But Im not giving in, this year it happens, Im not a mechanic, but im not clueless so im going to do it myself. This is my plan and I invite comments.
1. Fuel tank emptied of old fuel and removed. Flexible fuel lines removed (advice on brands/type gratefully received). fuel filter replaced, fuel pump replaced. (i had an engine fire on an old horse box generator due to degraded lines-lesson learnt hard way)
2. Remove spark plugs. A little oil to sit in the bores for a week or so. Turn over gently over with a breaker bar 10-15 times.
3. Empty coolent, flush with an engine flush (brand?) refill. Oil Change.
4. New brake hoses, inspect disks - fairly rusty, see how they clean up with a wire brush, new caliper seals and put in new pads while im there.
5. change brake and clutch fluid.
6. new spark plugs, air filter, battery, alternator belt. Turn over with out plugs, turn over with plugs but no fuel to get oil moving around.
7.. fuel with some injector cleaner added. Hit the ignition.
She has very low mileage - she was never a work horse Summer weekender only. Hardly ever been wet. Always garaged. Bit concerned about rodent damage though not seen any.
8. New tyres (it has the original tyres i boughtit with in 1998!)
Obviously other rubber things may have perished, have to look out for those.
Any one have any advise / critisms / observations gratefully received.
Sounds like you have it covered, dont buy hoses from ebay, this is good stuff.
https://www.carbuilder.com/products/ethanol-proof-...
https://www.carbuilder.com/products/ethanol-proof-...
Just be careful throwing aftermarket parts at it particularly the ignition system as they are junk these days, if your cap, rotor etc are original decent quality then just clean them up.
If you did need a cap or rotor then this place is the go to.
https://distributordoctor.com/
Stepper motor will be worth removing and cleaning, easy to do and there are lots of threads on this already.
Check the small diameter rubber hose connected to fuel pressure regulator and stepper housing for perishing, same goes for the other rubber hoses in the engine bay as they can cause vacuum leaks.
Distributor vacuum advance line too, remove the hose from the plenum end and suck on it to see if the diaphragm in the vacuum advance unit feels intact.
Vacuum leaks from hoses etc can be a big source of rough running so its worth paying particular attention to that area especially with a car parked up for that long but if it starts and runs your on to a winner really.
If you did need a cap or rotor then this place is the go to.
https://distributordoctor.com/
Stepper motor will be worth removing and cleaning, easy to do and there are lots of threads on this already.
Check the small diameter rubber hose connected to fuel pressure regulator and stepper housing for perishing, same goes for the other rubber hoses in the engine bay as they can cause vacuum leaks.
Distributor vacuum advance line too, remove the hose from the plenum end and suck on it to see if the diaphragm in the vacuum advance unit feels intact.
Vacuum leaks from hoses etc can be a big source of rough running so its worth paying particular attention to that area especially with a car parked up for that long but if it starts and runs your on to a winner really.
Your list looks comprehensive, and totally agree with Belle's comments too.
Anything rubber/hose, and suspension/wishbone bushes as you say - you might find engine mounts, gearbox mounts, diff bushes will probably need attention too.
I would strongly advocate greasing the prop shaft UJs too - that's a part that is impossible to get to without dropping the exhaust. Cost is minimal, effort is bigger.
Once you've done those bits you'll largely be in shakedown for the mechanical parts.
Then onto the electrics - see how it behaves...
Anything rubber/hose, and suspension/wishbone bushes as you say - you might find engine mounts, gearbox mounts, diff bushes will probably need attention too.
I would strongly advocate greasing the prop shaft UJs too - that's a part that is impossible to get to without dropping the exhaust. Cost is minimal, effort is bigger.
Once you've done those bits you'll largely be in shakedown for the mechanical parts.
Then onto the electrics - see how it behaves...
pmc_3 said:
I bought one that had been off the road for 13 years. As a precaution I replaced fuel lines and filters, fan belt, coolant hoses and brake hoses, I figured all would likely be perished.
Just to emphasize the fuel hose thing. I specifically asked for mine to be checked every service but not all the hoses are visible for all their length.I had one split and pump fuel all over the hot engine. Luckily no ignition for the vapour, but it was one scary moment!
Also luckily it happened whilst the car was on the ramp having its MOT!
You were lucky. I generally mess about with small engines. I live in a fairly rural area so I have helped my neighbours with things like Mowers and Chainsaws as its tough to find someone to come out and get them and many are elderly. (its not what i do for a living). I have had 2 fires, a horse box auxillery generator i got running caught fire after the line burst. The worst one was a ride on mower, i was checking for spark when a split in the fuel line dumped fuel on the plug. Luckily i had an old damp towel i was kneeling on and i was able to suffocate it before too much damage. Im very wary now. Thats why im not doing anything with it, not even fitting a battery until all the fuel lines are replaced.
Hi Nick
I am doing the same with my late fathers chimaera which I have inherited and hasn’t run for 9 years.
Depending on pre or serp engine I would prime with distributor removed the oil pump drive as documented on here so well.
I am using deep creep on the cylinders and have left it for two weeks.
My petrol was like varnish !
It’s slowly getting there.
Regards
Chris
I am doing the same with my late fathers chimaera which I have inherited and hasn’t run for 9 years.
Depending on pre or serp engine I would prime with distributor removed the oil pump drive as documented on here so well.
I am using deep creep on the cylinders and have left it for two weeks.
My petrol was like varnish !
It’s slowly getting there.
Regards
Chris
Good seems im not the only one doing this. I think I will document my progress once i get going. Might help others, like i say im not useless when it comes to mechanics. But old motorcycles, ride on mowers and chainsaws are a far cry from a car. I had hoped to just send it away then pick it up. But like the last 15 years, something always comes up that eradicates the budget, this year is no different. So thats the only reason im doing it. I dont mind the fuel system, brakes and so on. Its suspension bushes and things i really dont want to do. I hate crawling around scraping my nose on the underneath of cars and axel stands is all I have. I know the crank seals have probably gone hard and brittle so no doubt ill have to pay someone to do that job. Im just trying to keep it to a minimum. As we all know its not the parts its the labour that breaks the bank, The bushes and so on maybe ok, but they are original on the car and even though its done barely 20k and hardly ever been out in the rain, Age is likely to mean they need attention. Anyway i intend to do a full inspection on Sunday - hense why im grilling people with experiance as to what i can expect to find and what too look for. So watch this space if you want to share in my joy, tears, frustration, failure and success, and potentially some comedy. But it has too be done, my wife and I before children spent many happy holidays motoring around the country in it. Its more sentimental than anything else. I put it away when i was 40. Im 57 now. If i dont get on with this i fear it will never happen. lets pray the suspension bushes and so on have faired better than i have and i can put that off until i can get someone else to do those! Wishful thinking i know.
Get it running and driving and take it for an Mot and see what gives.
It can quickly become a frustrating experience if you start thinking about every piece of rubber on the car, sure the bushes may be a bit tired after all these years but they can be done at your leisure.
Tyres will need changing obviously so it starts to get expensive too.
It can quickly become a frustrating experience if you start thinking about every piece of rubber on the car, sure the bushes may be a bit tired after all these years but they can be done at your leisure.
Tyres will need changing obviously so it starts to get expensive too.
NickOcean said:
Yes I agree, even if the bushes look good. i suspect they will degrade fairly quickly when its on the road but like i say i dont really want to do that myself with out a lift.
I feel you are creating problems possibly before they exist. Many cars have been on/ off the road and often not doing more than 2000 miles a year at best. I’d be inclined to do as Belle says and get it ready for mot and see what happens from there.
There is just as much chance your bushes are good rather than bad. Remember there are cars out there that have never had any bushes changed and still operating with no issues. 90% of cars are used in summer and layed up for winter which is not that different to leaving the car stood for years. The bushes don’t degrade that badly and in fact my rear wishbone bushes on my car were 20 years old and showed no signs of degradation at all really.
Re commission the car concentrating on what’s required to have a mot and let the mot chap check for any play or looseness in any of those rubberised bushes and I bet they will likely be fine.
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