A Handling Headache
Discussion
Hoping to get some wisdom here with where to go next in sorting this as ive reached a bit of a dead end.
Ive not had my 2012 BR-Z too long and its been a great car so far but there is something is starting to really spoil the enjoyment that has steadily gotten worse that I cant seem to rectify. That is the steering and handling behaviour, where its will self centre quite a lot from the right but not very much from the left. So that it feels like there is a lot more steering assist to the left and not as much to the right. It makes steering the car a bit vague and not confidence inspiring, especially on a nice B road where this car has always been lovely to drive - now it's a bit frustrating. Like theres more grip on one side of the car.
Ive done a separate post on this as wasn't sure if it was down to an incorrect alignment (now confirmed its spot on) I had the alignment adjusted with camber bolts in order to stop the car tramlining so much and to feel more stable on the motorway. While this has worked it also feels a bit numb to steer between 11-12 o'clock on the wheel and left turns dont offer much feedback through the steering.
So far ive changed the front drop links, new front tyres (Michelin PS5s), new rubber boots on the lower control arm bushings and had the above alignment and had not one or two...but three! separate garages confirm that my suspension, bushes and steering linkages upfront are in good order! Yes mad I know....
A solution I can think of is to remove the camber bolts and return to stock values even though im only currently on -1.5 degree of negative camber with zero toe all around. I dont buy the idea though that the issue is being caused by the crown in the road though.
On the rear suspension there is a knock from small jolts in the road but no leakages or damage seen. Ive been advised this would not affect the steering behaviour. So the only candidates I can think of is that this is not true and the rear struts would affect the steering/handling. The other being my rear tyres are now down to about 3mm of tread (Michelin PS4s) Tyre pressures are also even all around.
Either that or there is an issue with the EPAS itself (unlikely) or that my shock absorbers are actually knackered all around as my car has now covered 72K on the original shocks and springs. They do seem a bit harsh over bumps at times but I put this down to it being a sporty car. This is a costly solution though which is a bit of a stab in the dark.
Is there anyone else who has had the same experience on a car and what would be a good route to go down next. Ive even contemplated started all over again and going down the route of coilovers which seems a bit extreme but will give me loads of adjustability to try and sort this out.
Ive not had my 2012 BR-Z too long and its been a great car so far but there is something is starting to really spoil the enjoyment that has steadily gotten worse that I cant seem to rectify. That is the steering and handling behaviour, where its will self centre quite a lot from the right but not very much from the left. So that it feels like there is a lot more steering assist to the left and not as much to the right. It makes steering the car a bit vague and not confidence inspiring, especially on a nice B road where this car has always been lovely to drive - now it's a bit frustrating. Like theres more grip on one side of the car.
Ive done a separate post on this as wasn't sure if it was down to an incorrect alignment (now confirmed its spot on) I had the alignment adjusted with camber bolts in order to stop the car tramlining so much and to feel more stable on the motorway. While this has worked it also feels a bit numb to steer between 11-12 o'clock on the wheel and left turns dont offer much feedback through the steering.
So far ive changed the front drop links, new front tyres (Michelin PS5s), new rubber boots on the lower control arm bushings and had the above alignment and had not one or two...but three! separate garages confirm that my suspension, bushes and steering linkages upfront are in good order! Yes mad I know....
A solution I can think of is to remove the camber bolts and return to stock values even though im only currently on -1.5 degree of negative camber with zero toe all around. I dont buy the idea though that the issue is being caused by the crown in the road though.
On the rear suspension there is a knock from small jolts in the road but no leakages or damage seen. Ive been advised this would not affect the steering behaviour. So the only candidates I can think of is that this is not true and the rear struts would affect the steering/handling. The other being my rear tyres are now down to about 3mm of tread (Michelin PS4s) Tyre pressures are also even all around.
Either that or there is an issue with the EPAS itself (unlikely) or that my shock absorbers are actually knackered all around as my car has now covered 72K on the original shocks and springs. They do seem a bit harsh over bumps at times but I put this down to it being a sporty car. This is a costly solution though which is a bit of a stab in the dark.
Is there anyone else who has had the same experience on a car and what would be a good route to go down next. Ive even contemplated started all over again and going down the route of coilovers which seems a bit extreme but will give me loads of adjustability to try and sort this out.
AdamG_BRZ said:
shtu said:
Possibly a reaction to road camber.
Try driving on the opposite side of the road - where safe! - and see if there is any change.
I managed to try this recently. No change im afraid however it is slightly better if you drive down the middle!?Try driving on the opposite side of the road - where safe! - and see if there is any change.
Can you try to measure height from wheel centre to some solid fixed point like strut top and compare side to side on level ground?
I'd say very unlikely a spring or shock issue.
Steering UJ could cause a stiffness and perhaps unwilling to self centre. As could a strut top mount bearing. Yes Castor angle will too, but presumably you've checked and that's all ok, and other than a bang at one corner, it shouldn't really change.
Steering unit....not sure on that, I guess it could go wonky one side or the other. Does it give any data as to how much force or current is being used one side or the other if it is fully electric ?
Steering UJ could cause a stiffness and perhaps unwilling to self centre. As could a strut top mount bearing. Yes Castor angle will too, but presumably you've checked and that's all ok, and other than a bang at one corner, it shouldn't really change.
Steering unit....not sure on that, I guess it could go wonky one side or the other. Does it give any data as to how much force or current is being used one side or the other if it is fully electric ?
I'm not sure I'd rule out the EPAS. If it were implemented using the old-school technology of a DC motor (which it won't be), then you'd have to reverse the armature voltage to provide assistance in the other direction and the control electronics could be faulty in one direction and not the other. It seems likely that something similar, but more complicated, could happen with the control electronics actually used in your car.
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