Discussion
I'm still looking for another bike, the itch comes and goes but this year it seems pretty much non stop! Despite still wanting an RD250LC, the couple i've looked at haven't really made me pull the trigger for some reason, i think in part I struggle to square the cost given the fairly minimal use it'll get from me, I get the feeling these really need use rather than being stood up.
Bike history wise, I've had a CBR600, Vespas, RGV250, a couple of small capacity Honda four strokes and somehow i've ended up thinking up an RC36 VFR750 might be a good compromise in terms of pace, comfort and pillion comfort if we want to jump on it for a couple of hours. I've got in my mind I will be able to walk up to a VFR750 and it'll just go, with less dramas than an RD might give me.
The price point these are at is also attractive to me, something I'll use infrequently but it is there if I want to go on it, I've read a lot of good things about the engine and I'm pretty sure the bike will deliver more than I need. My old CBR6 (1994) was just that, although at the time I did find myself riding probably a little too fast (older / more sensible now apparently).
I wondered if anyone has any thoughts on buying one, on the whole they appear to be a good shout, something I won't lose my shirt on and something that tends to be a reliable choice (noting they are 30+ years old).
Bike history wise, I've had a CBR600, Vespas, RGV250, a couple of small capacity Honda four strokes and somehow i've ended up thinking up an RC36 VFR750 might be a good compromise in terms of pace, comfort and pillion comfort if we want to jump on it for a couple of hours. I've got in my mind I will be able to walk up to a VFR750 and it'll just go, with less dramas than an RD might give me.
The price point these are at is also attractive to me, something I'll use infrequently but it is there if I want to go on it, I've read a lot of good things about the engine and I'm pretty sure the bike will deliver more than I need. My old CBR6 (1994) was just that, although at the time I did find myself riding probably a little too fast (older / more sensible now apparently).
I wondered if anyone has any thoughts on buying one, on the whole they appear to be a good shout, something I won't lose my shirt on and something that tends to be a reliable choice (noting they are 30+ years old).
Do it!
Buy on condition and not miles, they are very well finished things so parts can be expensive, put you probably won't need anything.
Headers can rot but black widow do a good set and quite cheap.
Suspension may be a bit tired and they were a little "plush" when new.
If I was getting another it would be the early to mid 90s model, they were real gems, and some of the best looking!
Buy on condition and not miles, they are very well finished things so parts can be expensive, put you probably won't need anything.
Headers can rot but black widow do a good set and quite cheap.
Suspension may be a bit tired and they were a little "plush" when new.
If I was getting another it would be the early to mid 90s model, they were real gems, and some of the best looking!
The starter clutches go so if it makes odd noises be wary, not too difficult but as has been said things can be expensive on these. Also, check that the chain is easy to adjust, if not cared for the hub can seize in the swing arm - I removed and cleaned mine just in time (years ago) but it took a couple of hours to get the hub out.
I do look back on mine fondly (it was a '91 FM model) and do quite often look at VFR750s for sale.....unlike the VFR800 I replaced it with which was a worse bike on nearly any measure.
In short, do it!
I do look back on mine fondly (it was a '91 FM model) and do quite often look at VFR750s for sale.....unlike the VFR800 I replaced it with which was a worse bike on nearly any measure.
In short, do it!
If you want an RD250LC then you'll only be happy when you have one. The VFR750's are great bikes and are built very well, but there's a reason why you were looking at the LC, even if it's just a nostalgia thing. I doubt you'll lose money on either bike but just think about which one you'd like to just stand and look at, or get excited about when you think about riding it.
If you're worried about having it sat for a while doing nothing then just buy a battery charger/conditioner. In terms of fuel, you can buy some unleaded, long life fuel from Demon Tweeks which doesn't have Ethanol in it, so it won't knacker you fuel lines etc. It's made for older bikes that are stood around for a while and I believe it lasts 3 yrs without turning to sludge.
Worst case scenario, you buy the RD and then sell it a year later. I doubt you'll lose much money but really enjoy the experience.
If you're worried about having it sat for a while doing nothing then just buy a battery charger/conditioner. In terms of fuel, you can buy some unleaded, long life fuel from Demon Tweeks which doesn't have Ethanol in it, so it won't knacker you fuel lines etc. It's made for older bikes that are stood around for a while and I believe it lasts 3 yrs without turning to sludge.
Worst case scenario, you buy the RD and then sell it a year later. I doubt you'll lose much money but really enjoy the experience.
I think they are excellent bikes and make sense for most of the reasons you stated but I don’t see them as giving any less “drama” than a 250LC if stood, more so in fact.
You can (seriously) whip the carbs off an LC and replace the plugs in less time you could remove the tank off the VFR, whose carbs are a swine to remove and replace, changing plugs will likely need mucking about with the radiator and tight access, all straightforward enough with time but don’t think it’ll be (near) maintainance free because it’s a newer 4 stroke ..maybe consider moving your “classic” time line to something slightly newer with fuel injection if you want some more of that “turn key” functionality.
You can (seriously) whip the carbs off an LC and replace the plugs in less time you could remove the tank off the VFR, whose carbs are a swine to remove and replace, changing plugs will likely need mucking about with the radiator and tight access, all straightforward enough with time but don’t think it’ll be (near) maintainance free because it’s a newer 4 stroke ..maybe consider moving your “classic” time line to something slightly newer with fuel injection if you want some more of that “turn key” functionality.
All carbed bikes these days with modern fuel are an arse.
The VFR750F is no different except the carbs are an almighty pain in the arse to remove.
Beyond that though they're pretty solid, the starter clutch outer as mentioned is known for failing, the reg/rec commonly fails (and can take out the stator).
No dodgy cam chains unlike the newer 800's and unlike the earlier RC24 the valves use buckets and shims and rarely need touching. The earlier RC24 (despite needing valve clearances every 12k) wasn't a big deal to service as 8 dsuz a side and the fairing sides and seat sides came off giving you 90% of the access required but I think the RC36 is worse.
Biggest issue these days probably the exhausts going. Access is a pain, they use tiny M6 studs that snap for fun and there aren't many options.
I would prioritise one with a decent aftermarket stainless full system!
The VFR750F is no different except the carbs are an almighty pain in the arse to remove.
Beyond that though they're pretty solid, the starter clutch outer as mentioned is known for failing, the reg/rec commonly fails (and can take out the stator).
No dodgy cam chains unlike the newer 800's and unlike the earlier RC24 the valves use buckets and shims and rarely need touching. The earlier RC24 (despite needing valve clearances every 12k) wasn't a big deal to service as 8 dsuz a side and the fairing sides and seat sides came off giving you 90% of the access required but I think the RC36 is worse.
Biggest issue these days probably the exhausts going. Access is a pain, they use tiny M6 studs that snap for fun and there aren't many options.
I would prioritise one with a decent aftermarket stainless full system!
I think you could also be overthinking it OP,
based on a limited experience.
LCs are pretty much as reliable and simple to fix as you can get, I’ve stored my LC between 2022 and end of 2024 with no issue, it’s also been sat in my shed unused since last September ,with my classic bikes I remove the fuel out of the tank and drain the carbs, which is why all carbd bikes have drain screws fitted but people are sometimes lazy and just want to hook them up to a trickle charger end of the season , taking that bit of care end of the season means they all spark up again easy. I also think you should get what your heart desires, rather than a second choice..
based on a limited experience.
LCs are pretty much as reliable and simple to fix as you can get, I’ve stored my LC between 2022 and end of 2024 with no issue, it’s also been sat in my shed unused since last September ,with my classic bikes I remove the fuel out of the tank and drain the carbs, which is why all carbd bikes have drain screws fitted but people are sometimes lazy and just want to hook them up to a trickle charger end of the season , taking that bit of care end of the season means they all spark up again easy. I also think you should get what your heart desires, rather than a second choice..
I had a very early VFR750. A grey market import from Japan built before they arrived in the UK. A fantastic bike with a sound and felt very different to a straight four. The noise always encouraged wide open throttle. Other posters have mentioned the difficulty of removing and refitting the carbs. The trick is to remove the two bolts that lock the two pairs of carbs together. These bolts are located on the two sides of the carbs but quite well hidden. This gives enough flexibilty to allow each pair of carbs to pull straight out.
Gareth9702 said:
I had a very early VFR750. A grey market import from Japan built before they arrived in the UK. A fantastic bike with a sound and felt very different to a straight four. The noise always encouraged wide open throttle. Other posters have mentioned the difficulty of removing and refitting the carbs. The trick is to remove the two bolts that lock the two pairs of carbs together. These bolts are located on the two sides of the carbs but quite well hidden. This gives enough flexibilty to allow each pair of carbs to pull straight out.
Oh no. You shouldn't split the carbs from the base plate unless you absolutely need to. The main issue is the flexibility (or lack of it) in the carb rubbers. New ones help but don't be tempted by aftermarket ones!
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