Caulking/sealant tools
Discussion
Try amazon, eg
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Professional-Caulking-Pro...
Last job I did, I used masking tape too. Game changer!
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Professional-Caulking-Pro...
Last job I did, I used masking tape too. Game changer!
Edited by vetrof on Thursday 23 April 11:05
There is a train of thought that says using a finger can introduce bacteria to your silicone, resulting in black mould.
https://diy.evo-stik.co.uk/help-advice/everything-...
https://diy.evo-stik.co.uk/help-advice/everything-...
Ive heard of people using a lollypop stick, I've not tried it my self but I was planning on it when I reseal one of the shower cubical in the house.
Feel free to try that idea and report back.
Also, try and keep the nib of the caulk/sealant cartridge small (only allowing a small quantity of product out), I find putting too much on makes it harder to control.
Feel free to try that idea and report back.
Also, try and keep the nib of the caulk/sealant cartridge small (only allowing a small quantity of product out), I find putting too much on makes it harder to control.
Edited by Ste-EVo on Thursday 23 April 11:33
The best tool is the Kramer Fugi tool set.

You also need wedge shaped not concave seals as produced by a finger so you have more sealant and water runs off rather than gathers.
The above tool and a vid on youtube about how to use it has transformed my silicone abilities from messy DIY finish to top end professional.
I also get much less messy and the sealant lasts for years.

You also need wedge shaped not concave seals as produced by a finger so you have more sealant and water runs off rather than gathers.
The above tool and a vid on youtube about how to use it has transformed my silicone abilities from messy DIY finish to top end professional.
I also get much less messy and the sealant lasts for years.
blueg33 said:
The best tool is the Kramer Fugi tool set.

You also need wedge shaped not concave seals as produced by a finger so you have more sealant and water runs off rather than gathers.
The above tool and a vid on youtube about how to use it has transformed my silicone abilities from messy DIY finish to top end professional.
I also get much less messy and the sealant lasts for years.
Bang on, the kramer set is the best i've used. Order some of this too:
You also need wedge shaped not concave seals as produced by a finger so you have more sealant and water runs off rather than gathers.
The above tool and a vid on youtube about how to use it has transformed my silicone abilities from messy DIY finish to top end professional.
I also get much less messy and the sealant lasts for years.
https://www.screwfix.com/p/mapei-ultracare-smooth-...
All the mastic men use shaped square dowel like this.
https://youtube.com/shorts/Ykj4naim2mQ?si=RRmsZYZA...
https://youtube.com/shorts/Ykj4naim2mQ?si=RRmsZYZA...
These are as good as any: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0F6CJR6LV/ref...
£3.78 on Amazon and under £2 on eBay.
£3.78 on Amazon and under £2 on eBay.
J6542 said:
All the mastic men use shaped square dowel like this.
https://youtube.com/shorts/Ykj4naim2mQ?si=RRmsZYZA...
That vid shows using soapy water. You don't need soapy water, it can damage the sealant and is unnecessary if you use the Kramer toolshttps://youtube.com/shorts/Ykj4naim2mQ?si=RRmsZYZA...
Cutting the nozzle to the right size and angle is important. Also, for some applications, squashing the end of the nozzle will help. Ultimately, it's about regulating the amount you go in with because shaping a finish with minimum waste will give you the best results.
Silicone, mastics and polyurethanes behave differently and have different curing mechanisms. Ambient temperature can also play a part in it.
A trick I sometimes use on flush-fitted windscreens that have an exposed urethane backfill is to use an open bottle. It gives just about enough of a concave finish and the idea of using a bottle means the waste is scooped up into it as you go along.
Silicone, mastics and polyurethanes behave differently and have different curing mechanisms. Ambient temperature can also play a part in it.
A trick I sometimes use on flush-fitted windscreens that have an exposed urethane backfill is to use an open bottle. It gives just about enough of a concave finish and the idea of using a bottle means the waste is scooped up into it as you go along.
darreni said:
blueg33 said:
The best tool is the Kramer Fugi tool set.

You also need wedge shaped not concave seals as produced by a finger so you have more sealant and water runs off rather than gathers.
The above tool and a vid on youtube about how to use it has transformed my silicone abilities from messy DIY finish to top end professional.
I also get much less messy and the sealant lasts for years.
Bang on, the kramer set is the best i've used. Order some of this too:
You also need wedge shaped not concave seals as produced by a finger so you have more sealant and water runs off rather than gathers.
The above tool and a vid on youtube about how to use it has transformed my silicone abilities from messy DIY finish to top end professional.
I also get much less messy and the sealant lasts for years.
https://www.screwfix.com/p/mapei-ultracare-smooth-...
I used to faff about with masking tape and a cheaper tool I probably got from B&Q or similar which started to fall apart after a few uses
no need for masking tape with this,
it leaves a nice clean edge, then a quick clean with some soapy water and an old tooth brush and it's ready to go again.
Ste-EVo said:
Ive heard of people using a lollypop stick, I've not tried it my self but I was planning on it when I reseal one of the shower cubical in the house.
Feel free to try that idea and report back.
Also, try and keep the nib of the caulk/sealant cartridge small (only allowing a small quantity of product out), I find putting too much on makes it harder to control.
This, silicone were needed, spray soapy water over silicone and run a lollipop stick along silicone. The silicone won't stick where you spray. Ive been using this method for many years with a perfect outcomeFeel free to try that idea and report back.
Also, try and keep the nib of the caulk/sealant cartridge small (only allowing a small quantity of product out), I find putting too much on makes it harder to control.
Edited by Ste-EVo on Thursday 23 April 11:33
It won't work with caulk or any waterbased sealant. Ive a good finger for that.
blueg33 said:
J6542 said:
All the mastic men use shaped square dowel like this.
https://youtube.com/shorts/Ykj4naim2mQ?si=RRmsZYZA...
That vid shows using soapy water. You don't need soapy water, it can damage the sealant and is unnecessary if you use the Kramer toolshttps://youtube.com/shorts/Ykj4naim2mQ?si=RRmsZYZA...
My favourite mastic man has a selection of sticks he keeps in a jar of soapy water. Dragging a stick across mastic is not all it’s about. Tooling it into a recess that will occur is also required. I had him do nearly 200 yds of alloy roof flashing at Brent Cross once, it was mesmerising to watch. Gun finish is useless, it needs to be tooled in.
Aluminati said:
blueg33 said:
J6542 said:
All the mastic men use shaped square dowel like this.
https://youtube.com/shorts/Ykj4naim2mQ?si=RRmsZYZA...
That vid shows using soapy water. You don't need soapy water, it can damage the sealant and is unnecessary if you use the Kramer toolshttps://youtube.com/shorts/Ykj4naim2mQ?si=RRmsZYZA...
My favourite mastic man has a selection of sticks he keeps in a jar of soapy water. Dragging a stick across mastic is not all it s about. Tooling it into a recess that will occur is also required. I had him do nearly 200 yds of alloy roof flashing at Brent Cross once, it was mesmerising to watch. Gun finish is useless, it needs to be tooled in.
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