Shock absorber sleeve - how to increase diameter?
Discussion
Looking to increase the lower bolt hole in a standard shock absorber from a 14mm hole to 16mm and thus trying to figure out what the "best" option would be.
I've debated filing it but that'd take a while but using a 16mm drill bit will be tricky, ie getting it centred plus only the outer 1mm of the cutting edge round be used so it'd likely blunt in seconds.
The answer here is probably chucking a machine shop of couple of quid but DIY using basic tools / any thoughts?
I've debated filing it but that'd take a while but using a 16mm drill bit will be tricky, ie getting it centred plus only the outer 1mm of the cutting edge round be used so it'd likely blunt in seconds.
The answer here is probably chucking a machine shop of couple of quid but DIY using basic tools / any thoughts?
TwinKam said:
What's the application? Would it be best to just get the correct damper?
P3 Volvo V70.It has Nivomats / self levelling which have an M16 lower bolt that fixes into a captive nut in the lower arm. You can fit standard shocks but they use an M14 bolt and respective arm.
Enlarging the standard shocks to accept the M16 bolt seems viable, though you also need the relevant top mounts and standard springs but I reckon £200 tops where as even the nastiest Nivomats are £300... and nearer £800 from Volvo.
Now considering if a 16mm O/D cone shaped die grinder would work... ie it'd centre itself, but may not be manly enough to open up a 25mm long eyelet.
Megaflow said:
What does the M16 screw into? Can you remove it or helicoil it and use the M14 from the standard dampers?
It's not identical to, but it's similar to this set up so it's a nut welded to the outside of the lower trailing arm. I did debate grinding it off and putting an M14 nut and bolt through then welding said M14 nut in place. But that doesn't seem to be a method anybody has explored before. The next option is to replace the lower arms for M14 spec ones bug that's starting to grow serious arms and legs!
hidetheelephants said:
Are the nivomat bushes available separately and are they the same outer size as the standard? If so press out the standard bushes and press in the nivomat ones.
Sadly not available... and not sure how the diameters compare though I guess if I knocked the lower bush out the Nivomat, then measured the outer diameter I could possibly find a bush, even a poly one that'd fit that utilises a 14mm internal diameter stainless sleeve? I think they're bonded from the factory so may have to unleash fire to get it out. Oh, now there's an idea. I can burn the 16mm sleeves out the Nivomats no problem. I'll acquire a standard shock tomorrow and do some measuring. Though, now thinking I could take the 14mm sleeve out a standard shock, open up centre if the bush by a fraction then push in the 16mm Nivomat sleeve... possibly?
If you can get the sleeve out of the standard bush it's likely the larger sleeve could be shoved in with a bit of grunting or pulled in with threaded studding, nuts and washers. It's gluing it in place which is the tricky bit, but there are probably suitable polyurethane adhesives so worth having a go.
If you can get a bolt through from the captive nut side.
Get M16 hex head screws*, take to machine shop, leave enough M16 to go through nut and arm at the head, machine the rest to 14mm, cut M14 thread on the bit that comes out of the mount.
*I think that's the correct term for bolts threaded all the way.
Get M16 hex head screws*, take to machine shop, leave enough M16 to go through nut and arm at the head, machine the rest to 14mm, cut M14 thread on the bit that comes out of the mount.
*I think that's the correct term for bolts threaded all the way.
I did wonder if this was on a Mondeo, which is why I asked the application, as I've heard of others trying to do just this on STs to avoid having to fit the correct, but expensive, self adjusting dampers. As you know, it's the same platform.
I'm not convinced that what you're trying to do is a great idea; it's not what the car was designed to have working in conjunction with the springs it has. The self levelling function is a wonderful feature, but I think you're going to lose more than just that.
I'm not convinced that what you're trying to do is a great idea; it's not what the car was designed to have working in conjunction with the springs it has. The self levelling function is a wonderful feature, but I think you're going to lose more than just that.
I believe there is an element of 'suspension' in the self levellers, much more so than in a gas filled damper, because the springs are different (part numbers).
So yes, if fitting standard dampers, matching standard springs must also be fitted.
But this is embarking on the path of unintended consequences, as ever when you deviate from standard; as you've found, the dampers are not a straight swap (bushing eye wise), maybe the springs aren't either... maybe a different diameter? ...so maybe the spring seats are different? ...maybe even the lower arms are different?...
That's why, and certainly from a professional's point of view, I'd be sticking with the original set-up; it works, it's superior, but importantly it's a guarantee-able job.
Just not cheap, granted
So yes, if fitting standard dampers, matching standard springs must also be fitted.
But this is embarking on the path of unintended consequences, as ever when you deviate from standard; as you've found, the dampers are not a straight swap (bushing eye wise), maybe the springs aren't either... maybe a different diameter? ...so maybe the spring seats are different? ...maybe even the lower arms are different?...
That's why, and certainly from a professional's point of view, I'd be sticking with the original set-up; it works, it's superior, but importantly it's a guarantee-able job.
Just not cheap, granted
Davie said:
Megaflow said:
What does the M16 screw into? Can you remove it or helicoil it and use the M14 from the standard dampers?
It's not identical to, but it's similar to this set up so it's a nut welded to the outside of the lower trailing arm. I did debate grinding it off and putting an M14 nut and bolt through then welding said M14 nut in place. But that doesn't seem to be a method anybody has explored before. The next option is to replace the lower arms for M14 spec ones bug that's starting to grow serious arms and legs!
How are you getting on with this, Davie?
I run an ST220 estate as a tow car, and bought a donor one for spares a couple of years ago. I popped it up in the air today to remove the exhaust (NLA, and the other one needs it). As I had to drop the rear subframe to remove the (one piece) exhaust, I also whipped out the rear dampers, because it's a breeze with the subframe down. I found that it has an original Ford self-leveller on one side, and an Anschler standard one on the other. I thought you'd be interested to know that both have 14mm lower eyes (and bolts obviously, into captive nuts), unlike your original Volvo branded one, which you say is 16mm.
As Anschler saw fit to make a straight-swap replacement for the rare-ish Ford application (higher power estates only), have you tried them for your Volvo?
I believe they're one of Euro Car Parts' budget brands.
I run an ST220 estate as a tow car, and bought a donor one for spares a couple of years ago. I popped it up in the air today to remove the exhaust (NLA, and the other one needs it). As I had to drop the rear subframe to remove the (one piece) exhaust, I also whipped out the rear dampers, because it's a breeze with the subframe down. I found that it has an original Ford self-leveller on one side, and an Anschler standard one on the other. I thought you'd be interested to know that both have 14mm lower eyes (and bolts obviously, into captive nuts), unlike your original Volvo branded one, which you say is 16mm.
As Anschler saw fit to make a straight-swap replacement for the rare-ish Ford application (higher power estates only), have you tried them for your Volvo?
I believe they're one of Euro Car Parts' budget brands.
Edited by TwinKam on Wednesday 6th May 19:56
Not tackled this as yet as I'm currently bankrupting myself at Centre Parcs. Home tomorrow and it's on my priority list as the NSR is knackered thus bouncing all over the place.
The P3 (2008 onwards) V70 is basically all Ford under the skin so there will be many shared parts though the V70 top mounts look different and the original Nivomat shock definitely utilises an M16 lower bolt into the trailing arm... I measured the first knackered one that I replaced with a "good" used one 6wks ago. It's rattling already and has zero dumping effect now.
My plan was to pick up a pair of standard, non self levelling shocks on Saturday plus the corresponding top mounts then decide on whether to drill the lower eye out from 14mm to 16mm or just fire an M14 nut and bolt through...
The P3 (2008 onwards) V70 is basically all Ford under the skin so there will be many shared parts though the V70 top mounts look different and the original Nivomat shock definitely utilises an M16 lower bolt into the trailing arm... I measured the first knackered one that I replaced with a "good" used one 6wks ago. It's rattling already and has zero dumping effect now.
My plan was to pick up a pair of standard, non self levelling shocks on Saturday plus the corresponding top mounts then decide on whether to drill the lower eye out from 14mm to 16mm or just fire an M14 nut and bolt through...
Gassing Station | Home Mechanics | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff