Sagaris dash light stays on while keys are out of the car
Discussion
Hello, I have an electrical problem with my Sagaris.
Last week I left my Sagaris in my garage and by accident I left the ignition on. About 8 hours later, I saw that my dashboard was lit and I turned off the ignition and took the keys out. At that moment the lights on dashboard went out so all fine I thought. The next day I saw that the dashboard was lit again while the keys were out of the car. I put the keys back in and tried to start, but the battery was drained. I then recharged the battery and the dashboard lights up again when I connect the battery while the keys are not in the ignition. Somehow, the ignition keeps staying on even though the keys are out of the ignition. I then removed all the relays one by one to see if the dashboard would turn off. This could mean that the starter relay is sticking. All the components connected to the relevant relays are working properly. All relays are fine but the dashboard light stays on. I have also checked the fuses and they are all good as well. I can start the car normally, but when I turn it off and take the key out of the ignition, the engine keeps running. If I disconnect the battery, the engine stops. The large 80A fuses at the battery and footwell are fine. I have also checked the ignition switch and it is fine too. I think the alternator is also fine because it charges 13.7 volts. Can someone give me advice and tell me what is going on here? Kind regards, Wim Waardenburg, The Netherlands
Last week I left my Sagaris in my garage and by accident I left the ignition on. About 8 hours later, I saw that my dashboard was lit and I turned off the ignition and took the keys out. At that moment the lights on dashboard went out so all fine I thought. The next day I saw that the dashboard was lit again while the keys were out of the car. I put the keys back in and tried to start, but the battery was drained. I then recharged the battery and the dashboard lights up again when I connect the battery while the keys are not in the ignition. Somehow, the ignition keeps staying on even though the keys are out of the ignition. I then removed all the relays one by one to see if the dashboard would turn off. This could mean that the starter relay is sticking. All the components connected to the relevant relays are working properly. All relays are fine but the dashboard light stays on. I have also checked the fuses and they are all good as well. I can start the car normally, but when I turn it off and take the key out of the ignition, the engine keeps running. If I disconnect the battery, the engine stops. The large 80A fuses at the battery and footwell are fine. I have also checked the ignition switch and it is fine too. I think the alternator is also fine because it charges 13.7 volts. Can someone give me advice and tell me what is going on here? Kind regards, Wim Waardenburg, The Netherlands
Wim, I would say redo the bolt through the body above the battery. I found that regardless on how I did it up, the bolt backed off leaving the cables loose. I created a bespoke bolt from a S/S grub screw with a nut welded on, so that I could tighten it from the wheel arch and using an Allen key stop it from backing off, whilst locking the inner nut up tight.
A@
A@
Yes, the shell has a threaded bobbin that you lock the eyelets down to the inside, but when you attempt to lock the nyloc nut up above the battery the bolt backs off leaving the eyelets loose.
There is also,
An in-line diode mod at the alternator (the alternator holding the display live).
Issues with the fuses/fuse box holders which get replaced (OE are nuts and washer and spring washer) replacements are flanged nylocs which melt and come loose (replacement M5 staytight full metal nuts). Ceramic versions of the fuses are needed. A@
There is also,
An in-line diode mod at the alternator (the alternator holding the display live).
Issues with the fuses/fuse box holders which get replaced (OE are nuts and washer and spring washer) replacements are flanged nylocs which melt and come loose (replacement M5 staytight full metal nuts). Ceramic versions of the fuses are needed. A@
My money is on the alternator diode.
They get a thumping and breakdown over time.
Cheap as chips to replace.P600A diode inline with the B+ wire.
Make sure it's the right way round (-ve facing the alternator).
Depending on which alternator you have in the car you may need to hunt around for the old one.
Not sure where they are on a Sag.
They get a thumping and breakdown over time.
Cheap as chips to replace.P600A diode inline with the B+ wire.
Make sure it's the right way round (-ve facing the alternator).
Depending on which alternator you have in the car you may need to hunt around for the old one.
Not sure where they are on a Sag.
I m probably way off, but .
Is it just the dash lights or is it all the accessories that stay on with the key removed?
I borrowed a transit years ago (same key I believe?) which I could take the key out of the ignition barrel at any angle of rotation, I only realised when I didn t quite turn it enough and the radio stayed on.
This was a very worn key/barrel though, so, as I said, I m probably way off.
Edited cos I seem to have lost the ability to use words today .
Is it just the dash lights or is it all the accessories that stay on with the key removed?
I borrowed a transit years ago (same key I believe?) which I could take the key out of the ignition barrel at any angle of rotation, I only realised when I didn t quite turn it enough and the radio stayed on.
This was a very worn key/barrel though, so, as I said, I m probably way off.
Edited cos I seem to have lost the ability to use words today .
Edited by Dave. on Wednesday 6th May 18:30
One of the syptoms from last years issue was dash lights on.
The issue was an earthing issue. All the earths joint together and then a single cable takes it back to the battery. The cable (from factory) is undersized but also located right next to the exhaust. So they may appear good connections but the cable is brittle and stiff so not 'flowing'.
New cable, problems gone.
My fix -
M8 / 8mm stud to replace bolt through bulkhead. Penny washers either side. Clamped down with nyloc either side. Regular washer. Then new cables (25mm or 35mm) with crimped eyelets. Two cables engine side - one to battery, one to chassis. Then washer, spring washer and nut. Engine side - thermal sleeve over cable. Cabin side - rubber bung over exposed end of stud. Stud, bolts and washers all stainless steel.
The issue was an earthing issue. All the earths joint together and then a single cable takes it back to the battery. The cable (from factory) is undersized but also located right next to the exhaust. So they may appear good connections but the cable is brittle and stiff so not 'flowing'.
New cable, problems gone.
My fix -
M8 / 8mm stud to replace bolt through bulkhead. Penny washers either side. Clamped down with nyloc either side. Regular washer. Then new cables (25mm or 35mm) with crimped eyelets. Two cables engine side - one to battery, one to chassis. Then washer, spring washer and nut. Engine side - thermal sleeve over cable. Cabin side - rubber bung over exposed end of stud. Stud, bolts and washers all stainless steel.
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