current oil opinions...

[THEDAVINATOR]

Hi everyone,

My Chim passed her MOT the other day and now I really want to get her ready for the summer to hopefully do a fair bit of touring in - just UK for now, don't think I'm brave enough for the continent just yet.

I want to change all the fluids and I have done some pretty exhaustive research on here on 'best' oils. While doing so, I stumbled across a delightful quote on here which stated: "opinions are like aholes, everyone has one, most of which stink..."

Car is a late 96 450 with 37k.

So far, I've gleaned that the best oils (for road use) are:

Engine; 10w40 semi synth, changed often

Gearbox (T5): Quality Mineral ATF - synth being an overkill, the T5 was designed to use mineral ATF

Diff: (I think mine is a BTR) SAE 75w - 140 LS synth, (GSK) AP1 GL-5 85w90 LS

Does this sound about right?

Many thanks

[Belle427]

Looks ok to me, the diff oil was 80/140 so not sure what the 80/90 part is in your description.
As for brands its a tough choice, I used Mobil ATF 220 in the gearbox, Morris oils lodexol 80/140 in the diff and usually something from one of the big players in the engine but everyone has a different view.

[Chim72]

This question does the rounds a lot.

My advice, certainly on the engine, would be to contact the recognised servicing/rebuilders and ask. For example, Powers have serviced mine for the last 3 years and it was rebuilt last year, they've only ever used 10w/40 semi synthetic.

As Belle has mentioned, Morris oils lodexol 80/140 in the diff.

[portzi]

Hopefully your car has been looked after before your purchase, if you have rebuilt your diff, gearbox and engine then you know how your car has been driven and looked after with regular servicing

[THEDAVINATOR]

Thanks for your replies everyone. The reason why I want to change all the fluids is because I bought my Chim 2.5 years ago blind on a popular auction site with no history. I never even saw it in the fibreglass before I bought it, I just checked the MOT history online - saw that there was no mention of rust and it had a genuine 37k so I took a deep breath and clicked the button...

I've barely driven it since having it due to various family crises but It's since passed 2 MOT's with just the front O/S upper wishbone needing replacing, so now its time to get out there and really use it - the drive back from the MOT on Tuesday was glorious..

So basically I have no idea how well it's been serviced but the engine oil is clean and clear which is something. I was loathed to ask the oil question because I know it's been done as often as the 'Chim Vs Griff' threads but oils do come and go to be fair, and I was just trying to get a (semi ) definitive answer, at least for 2026....

We all want to put the best stuff in our cars and I think the thing (certainly for me) is to instinctively put the highest spec, most expensive of everything in there, but when it comes to oils, 'best" isn't always ....er.... 'best'. 'Correct' is - and frequency of changes, rather than the brand of oil. (at least that what I've learned on here).

Edited by THEDAVINATOR on Friday 8th May 10:00

[macdeb]

Engine - Valvoline VR1.

[sixor8]

On other threads about oil, there are opinions about zinc content, oil for hard driving etc. But if you don't do track days, 10W / 40 semi synthetic is perfectly finer. My local TVR specialists endorses Powers' opinion that it is all that is required, it's basically a 1960's engine by design. He only uses Mobil but there are many equivalents.

ETA: Sorry, forgot the / 40 bit...

Edited by sixor8 on Friday 8th May 14:08