UPVC Window Fitting Tips
Discussion
It's been 10 years since I last fitted upvc windows. I have googled but the results don't make much sense to me
I've sized the windows with a 5mm gap all around - if I tighten the concrete screws snug is there any need for packers, they aren't pulling the frame and the expanding foam supports and stops any movement
Is there any need for more than 2 fixings in each side ?
You couldn't pull one out and the foam / silicone holds the window is there need for more and do people bother with one in the head ? 1500 x 2200 windows
The ones I'm removing have been in for 20 years and they haven't even got any foam, relying on silicone and cover strips
I'm aware to heal and toe glass with side hung windows but these are top hung presumably I can just put two packers in the bottom and then allow the glass to be held by the (incredibly tight) beads ?
These windows from a supplier I haven't used before came with large w-shaped packers. I assumed they were just to hold the beads for transport but I've seen a video on YouTube where they used them as the actual packer
The beads are very tight and need a lot of force to knock them in (plastic tipped hammer) I've used soapy water which has helped a bit, any other tip, maybe silicon spray ?
I've sized the windows with a 5mm gap all around - if I tighten the concrete screws snug is there any need for packers, they aren't pulling the frame and the expanding foam supports and stops any movement
Is there any need for more than 2 fixings in each side ?
You couldn't pull one out and the foam / silicone holds the window is there need for more and do people bother with one in the head ? 1500 x 2200 windows
The ones I'm removing have been in for 20 years and they haven't even got any foam, relying on silicone and cover strips
I'm aware to heal and toe glass with side hung windows but these are top hung presumably I can just put two packers in the bottom and then allow the glass to be held by the (incredibly tight) beads ?
These windows from a supplier I haven't used before came with large w-shaped packers. I assumed they were just to hold the beads for transport but I've seen a video on YouTube where they used them as the actual packer
The beads are very tight and need a lot of force to knock them in (plastic tipped hammer) I've used soapy water which has helped a bit, any other tip, maybe silicon spray ?
Can't help with the fitting but just a heads up that fitting the windows yourself may cause you issues, especially if you want to sell at some point ? Supposed to be done by a FENSA installer (or I think signed off by building control?)
May or may not be a concern for you but maybe useful info if you weren't aware
May or may not be a concern for you but maybe useful info if you weren't aware
JimM169 said:
Can't help with the fitting but just a heads up that fitting the windows yourself may cause you issues, especially if you want to sell at some point ? Supposed to be done by a FENSA installer (or I think signed off by building control?)
May or may not be a concern for you but maybe useful info if you weren't aware
Or just pay the £15 for indemnity. May or may not be a concern for you but maybe useful info if you weren't aware
It's just a racket
I don't even knock the 5mm off. I go for the smallest size of the opening. If a mm or two needs trimming off the frame you're not going to see it once it's in and siliconed.
Beats vast amounts of expanding foam and cover strips if the widest gap looks too big.
I think the pros just go smaller because it's loads quicker, if you're doing it yourself you can take your time. I've heard some knock 10mm off the opening size, which seems mental to me.
Beats vast amounts of expanding foam and cover strips if the widest gap looks too big.
I think the pros just go smaller because it's loads quicker, if you're doing it yourself you can take your time. I've heard some knock 10mm off the opening size, which seems mental to me.
I've done all my own in the past year, with building control sign-off.
I was advised that foam only isn't sufficient, so I've got concrete screws all around. Any gaps filled with Soudal SWS low expansion foam.
The correct overlap with the cavity was a bit of nuisance, as I had to cut back 20mm of plasterboard around the reveals (as previous windows were set too far forward).
I went too tight on some windows, so had to skill saw off the little 8mm lips on the frame.
I was advised that foam only isn't sufficient, so I've got concrete screws all around. Any gaps filled with Soudal SWS low expansion foam.
The correct overlap with the cavity was a bit of nuisance, as I had to cut back 20mm of plasterboard around the reveals (as previous windows were set too far forward).
I went too tight on some windows, so had to skill saw off the little 8mm lips on the frame.
Fit your frame square & level.
Equal gaps between the window jambs and structure.
Packers at all fixings and fixings approx 150mm from the corners and no further than 800mm apart, this stops the profile from twisting and supports the frame.
Packers under the jambs and mullions plus between the frame and structure on the jambs - top and bottom, supports the weight.
Install DGU onto packers and then place plastic packers on all sides - top & sides - of the DGU.
Try some soapy water spray with the beads when installing & if that doesn't work try leaving the beads sitting in hot soapy water before fitting. Also when you get the first bead on, use plastic packers between the bead and DGU to push the DGU back into the frame (making sure the DGU is free to move back).
If you have any spare plastic beads cut some at about 100/150mm and use them as temporary measure to help push the DGU back into the frame. You could try to soften the gaskets by leaving them in hot water prior to installing the DGU.
Equal gaps between the window jambs and structure.
Packers at all fixings and fixings approx 150mm from the corners and no further than 800mm apart, this stops the profile from twisting and supports the frame.
Packers under the jambs and mullions plus between the frame and structure on the jambs - top and bottom, supports the weight.
Install DGU onto packers and then place plastic packers on all sides - top & sides - of the DGU.
Try some soapy water spray with the beads when installing & if that doesn't work try leaving the beads sitting in hot soapy water before fitting. Also when you get the first bead on, use plastic packers between the bead and DGU to push the DGU back into the frame (making sure the DGU is free to move back).
If you have any spare plastic beads cut some at about 100/150mm and use them as temporary measure to help push the DGU back into the frame. You could try to soften the gaskets by leaving them in hot water prior to installing the DGU.
Lots of good advice above and probably loads more on YouTube;
I’ll add if you have any instances where the concrete screw heads will be visible, use some screw cups, they tidy things up a bit, M12 for 8mm screws; don’t go mental with tightening, you can deform them.
Air wedges can be handy with big frames, if you’re on your own.
Packers can be handy to hold the frame in place temporarily whilst applying the foam, let it
cure then mechanically fix, the foam stops the frame wandering about all over the shop.
If you have any spindly frames, use some sprags to stop them bowing the frame.
A thin bead of silicone under the back, bottom edge of the frame and at the end of the cill,
stops water dribbling off into the cavity.
Bottom bead, top bead then sides (if profile allows), though if you have any stupidly short
beads, those first, then you have more ‘spring’ in the long beads.
It’s still possible to crack the glass with a nylon hammer
I’ll add if you have any instances where the concrete screw heads will be visible, use some screw cups, they tidy things up a bit, M12 for 8mm screws; don’t go mental with tightening, you can deform them.
Air wedges can be handy with big frames, if you’re on your own.
Packers can be handy to hold the frame in place temporarily whilst applying the foam, let it
cure then mechanically fix, the foam stops the frame wandering about all over the shop.
If you have any spindly frames, use some sprags to stop them bowing the frame.
A thin bead of silicone under the back, bottom edge of the frame and at the end of the cill,
stops water dribbling off into the cavity.
Bottom bead, top bead then sides (if profile allows), though if you have any stupidly short
beads, those first, then you have more ‘spring’ in the long beads.
It’s still possible to crack the glass with a nylon hammer
_Rodders_ said:
JimM169 said:
Can't help with the fitting but just a heads up that fitting the windows yourself may cause you issues, especially if you want to sell at some point ? Supposed to be done by a FENSA installer (or I think signed off by building control?)
May or may not be a concern for you but maybe useful info if you weren't aware
Or just pay the £15 for indemnity. May or may not be a concern for you but maybe useful info if you weren't aware
It's just a racket
Similar to having a wood burner installed (HETAS) or an oil boiler (OFTEC) or a gas boiler (Gas Safe) etc etc.....
GasEngineer said:
_Rodders_ said:
JimM169 said:
Can't help with the fitting but just a heads up that fitting the windows yourself may cause you issues, especially if you want to sell at some point ? Supposed to be done by a FENSA installer (or I think signed off by building control?)
May or may not be a concern for you but maybe useful info if you weren't aware
Or just pay the £15 for indemnity. May or may not be a concern for you but maybe useful info if you weren't aware
It's just a racket
Similar to having a wood burner installed (HETAS) or an oil boiler (OFTEC) or a gas boiler (Gas Safe) etc etc.....
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