Liquid metal style epoxy like JB weld etc
Discussion
Looking to repair an M8 thread that's about 30-40 deep, the bolt it contains is not structural just used to adjust chain tension so no real load on it.
Would using the appropriate aluminium putty such as this work ?
https://sylmasta.com/product/superfast-aluminium-s...
I'm thinking fill the knackered void completely with the stuff then letting it cure then drill and tap as required, Google AI suggests a maximum torque of 15NM for any swing arm bolt.
Anyone done this before how did it go and what product did you use ?
Would using the appropriate aluminium putty such as this work ?
https://sylmasta.com/product/superfast-aluminium-s...
I'm thinking fill the knackered void completely with the stuff then letting it cure then drill and tap as required, Google AI suggests a maximum torque of 15NM for any swing arm bolt.
Anyone done this before how did it go and what product did you use ?
A helicoil-or-similar thread insert is going to be a much better repair, and isn't especially expensive.
A -very- quick look on ebay found 24mm length inserts, which sounds like plenty for your needs.
edit - as above, going up a size is another option, though that does leave you with an aluminium thread rather than the steel of an insert. Either is better than a glob of epoxy though.
A -very- quick look on ebay found 24mm length inserts, which sounds like plenty for your needs.
edit - as above, going up a size is another option, though that does leave you with an aluminium thread rather than the steel of an insert. Either is better than a glob of epoxy though.

Up sizing to M10 and or helecoil are unfortunately not options due to the location of the hole.
I'll be purchasing some of the above linked epoxy's and doing a test piece on a similar hole on some scrap piece before comitting to it
I'll be purchasing some of the above linked epoxy's and doing a test piece on a similar hole on some scrap piece before comitting to it
Edited by mobile chicane22 on Thursday 4th June 11:42
mobile chicane22 said:
Up sizing to M10 and or helecoil are unfortunately not options due to the location of the hole.
I'll be purchasing some of the above linked epoxy's and doing a test piece on a similar hole on some scrap piece before committing to it.
also I believe the part I am going to re thread is actually 30-40mm deep
I'll be purchasing some of the above linked epoxy's and doing a test piece on a similar hole on some scrap piece before committing to it.
also I believe the part I am going to re thread is actually 30-40mm deep
Edited by mobile chicane22 on Thursday 4th June 11:42
Ritchie335is said:
Look up Time-serts, much better than heli coils.
If you do need to use a chemical metal, JB Weld is thought to be the best from what I have seen.
Not necessarily: https://youtu.be/jknMrFOGMOQ?si=CoeG88C1IaZ-_umH&a...If you do need to use a chemical metal, JB Weld is thought to be the best from what I have seen.
Both are more than capable of being stronger than an originally threaded aluminium part.
mobile chicane22 said:
Up sizing to M10 and or helecoil are unfortunately not options due to the location of the hole.
Can we see the part?Krikkit said:
Ritchie335is said:
Look up Time-serts, much better than heli coils.
If you do need to use a chemical metal, JB Weld is thought to be the best from what I have seen.
Not necessarily: https://youtu.be/jknMrFOGMOQ?si=CoeG88C1IaZ-_umH&a...If you do need to use a chemical metal, JB Weld is thought to be the best from what I have seen.
Both are more than capable of being stronger than an originally threaded aluminium part.
See the 4 tensioner rollers (also M8 threads) on the cambelts here;

I doubt the threads would last very long if they were directly into the heads.
catso said:
Krikkit said:
Ritchie335is said:
Look up Time-serts, much better than heli coils.
If you do need to use a chemical metal, JB Weld is thought to be the best from what I have seen.
Not necessarily: https://youtu.be/jknMrFOGMOQ?si=CoeG88C1IaZ-_umH&a...If you do need to use a chemical metal, JB Weld is thought to be the best from what I have seen.
Both are more than capable of being stronger than an originally threaded aluminium part.
See the 4 tensioner rollers (also M8 threads) on the cambelts here;

I doubt the threads would last very long if they were directly into the heads.
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