how to lower inspection chamber?
how to lower inspection chamber?
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Discussion

ukwill

Original Poster:

10,027 posts

234 months

Tuesday 30th June
quotequote all
Got an inspection chamber in the garage. Finally getting round to sorting the space out so would like to bring the cover down to floor level. Whats the best way to do this?



Simon_GH

938 posts

107 months

Tuesday 30th June
quotequote all
I cut one down in my front lawn with an angle grinder (gently because it’s plastic and you don’t want a melted mess).

Doofus

34,011 posts

200 months

Tuesday 30th June
quotequote all
?

Skyedriver

23,024 posts

309 months

Tuesday 30th June
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First thing I'd worry about, at peak flow does it fill up due to poor flow/capacity downstream?

ukwill

Original Poster:

10,027 posts

234 months

Tuesday 30th June
quotequote all
no it was a requirement from the council when we put a garden room in. in reality there's barely anytime water is going through the pipe (which is about 6ft below the floor)

Edited by ukwill on Tuesday 30th June 21:46

ukwill

Original Poster:

10,027 posts

234 months

Tuesday 30th June
quotequote all

if cutting with a grinder at floor level is the way to go, how to put the cover on? (I plan to tile around so dont want it sat above the tile surface). is it just a case of getting some concrete/plastic bonding agent?

Simpo Two

92,299 posts

292 months

Tuesday 30th June
quotequote all
Simon_GH said:
I cut one down in my front lawn with an angle grinder (gently because it s plastic and you don t want a melted mess).
I used a jigsaw. Much more suitable than an angle grinder which is for metal.

IIRC the cover just sat back in place.

barryrs

5,008 posts

250 months

Tuesday 30th June
quotequote all
Can’t help but think that delaying this till after the concrete was poured is going to result in a world of pain. Most likely requiring a jack hammer as even a low profile cover will be thicker than your floor covering.

PurpleFox

504 posts

112 months

Tuesday 30th June
quotequote all
I would take it down to an inch above floor level then cover it temporarily so nothing falls down the drain, then hammer out the concrete around the circular pipe with an sds to allow for the lid to fit flush with your finished floor, then cut the pipe to the required depth by using a grinder or multi tool on the inside of the pipe as you will need it below floor level.

hidetheelephants

34,976 posts

220 months

Tuesday 30th June
quotequote all
Good grief, they phoned that in didn't they? In a rush for the pub no doubt, proper half-a-job. Doing that properly will need the concrete breaking out around it so the cover unit can be bedded in flush, at least if you want to have cars etc. going over it. If you are prepared to bodge it/don't need the load-bearing capacity you could just cut it off flush with the ground and make a cover out of bit of plywood.

Panamax

9,149 posts

61 months

Tuesday 30th June
quotequote all
barryrs said:
Can t help but think that delaying this till after the concrete was poured is going to result in a world of pain. Most likely requiring a jack hammer as even a low profile cover will be thicker than your floor covering.
Yup, rent a Kango and work carefully. You don't want the crud going down the drains. Then reinstall carefully, flush with the floor.

ukwill

Original Poster:

10,027 posts

234 months

Tuesday 30th June
quotequote all
In fairness to the builders I was planning to get the garage refurbed as a separate job after other, more important work in the house, but time/money got in the way… several years later, It’s time I sorted it out!

So you seem to be suggesting I should crack out the sds with a chisel bit and run it round the circumference, then cut the thing down to just below the floor level, then refit the cover?

If yes, how to refit the cover? Could I use some kind of bonding agent and then cement around the cover?

If no, what did I miss/get wrong?

hidetheelephants

34,976 posts

220 months

Wednesday 1st July
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Does the cover unit come off or is it bonded into the pipe/chamber? It appears to be Wavin Osma, some more photographs and some measurements should enable a builders merchant to identify compatible bits if any extra are needed. Doing the job properly will indeed require a fair bit of SDS action.

LooneyTunes

9,259 posts

185 months

Wednesday 1st July
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It’s pretty normal to leave drains/chambers poking well out of the slab when the concrete is poured.

What diameter is it? You can get push fit inspection chamber covers.

If your tile thickness works, would then just mean cutting down to flush with floor level (multi tool or angle grinder), push in, bolt down, and tile. If the tiles are too thin then bring the level up with some self-levelling compound. No cutting of the concrete needed.

E-bmw

13,034 posts

179 months

Wednesday 1st July
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I would think the whole top section comes off, so you just need to sds out the concrete enough to allow the top section to be refitted on a cut down pipe length.