Problem replacing Euro cylinders

[Dr Mike Oxgreen]

Just moved into a new house, and I’m trying to measure the internal/external measurements of the Euro cylinders so I can order replacements.

I’ve successfully removed and measured the cylinders on the back door and French doors, but the retaining screw on the front door simply won’t budge. No matter how hard I push and how hard I try to turn it, it refuses to yield. I’m in danger of stripping the head.

Any thoughts on why it is seized? Has somebody used thread lock on it?

Any tips on releasing it would be greatly appreciated. I think the door is composite, so I’m not sure how much heat I could apply without damaging the surrounding material or scorching the paint finish. I do have a hot air heat gun - might that work?

Penetrating fluid? Would that go in far enough to reach the threads in the cylinder?

Hit it with a hammer to shock the threads?

Also, supplementary question… Both the cylinders I have successfully removed have 4mm of external protrusion. Can I safely order cylinders 5mm shorter, or will that not work, or look stupid? Should I simply not worry about 4mm if I’m buying decent quality snap-resistant cylinders?

[Dr Mike Oxgreen]

Or do I need to buy an impact driver?

[JoshSm]

Been there done that. It's probably corroded in via moisture and the zinc plating.

Take the handle(s) off and you can probably see far enough down the side of the cylinder to spray some penetrating fluid near enough to the screw.

Retaining screw will be an M5 so hopefully not that easy to snap. Manual impact driver might help more than an electric one.

[Tymb]

Have a really good look at the handle and locking mechanism, as it's a front door there might be something like a grub screw hidden under a cover. I've never had issues removing the retaining screw on euro locks except for last year on a friends front door. I can't remember the exact sequence but it was a real puzzle to get the cylinder out. The screw your trying to turn might not actually be a screw, I think I had to remove a cover, release a plate and then the retaining screw was something like a 3mm hex. If you can see any names on the handle and lock worth googling them for instructions.

[Dr Mike Oxgreen]

Here’s a picture I took last night. You can see my efforts have already given that screw head a “custom profile”.

What is the green bit that says “Solidor”? Is that the manufacturer of the whole handle assembly?

I’ll have another look this morning for any other names or a grub screw. I am tempted to buy a manual impact driver and try shocking the threads.

ChatGPT suggested heating the screw with the tip of a soldering iron. Good idea, or AI slop?

[Dr Mike Oxgreen]

Indeed, the front door at the previous house had a cover plate that had to be removed, but then the retaining screw was just like all the others and came out easily.

I do have some penetrating fluid, in a box, somewhere. So I’ll try that when I can find it.

Edited by Dr Mike Oxgreen on Sunday 12th July 06:50

[Belle427]

Impact may do it, heat would help but tricky to do that. If you have a blow lamp try heating the screwdriver shaft up whilst its in the screw, probably wont transfer enough heat though.
Penetrating fluid may not get where it needs to.

[JoshSm]

Heating it probably wouldn't work, not while it's in contact with the latch mechanism which will be heatsinking it.

By the time the screw is hot enough to matter you'll have started to cook the side of the door.

Soldering iron wouldn't get enough energy into it, a MAP powered torch definitely could but however careful you were it's still going to heat everything else just because of all the metal in contact.

[Jazoli]

An impact driver will get that out, just make sure the head of the bit fits as well as it can, I’d use a manual one rather than battery powered for more control.

[no eye deer]

As mentioned above, take the handles off and you should be able to get the straw from a can of Wd40 or similar in enough to hose down the area where the screw sits in the cylinder.
Good tight fitting screwdriver and a few good taps while turning should free it off.

The green piece you can see is a bit like an equivalent to an old style snib/latch button: when you turn the handle and the latch is withdrawn you can slide the plastic piece up to hold the latch in.

[OutInTheShed]

Taking the handles off might also take some stress off the cylinder, allowing the screw to turn more easily.
I agree, get some oil of some sort in there.
A hot screwdriver might help, even if just to help the oil flow.

Looking at the picture it's almost like that philips screw is not in the right place to be the cylinder screw?
Probably just the angle?

The green bit is where the same metal bit is used for the hook-type latch on French doors I think?

[Little Lofty]

A well fitting Philips bit on an impact driver should get that out, tap the bit into the screw so it goes in fully, I removed a very stubborn torx screw recently, my torx screwdrivers got me nowhere, the impact driver got it out in seconds. Before such tools, a few good whacks with a hammer and screwdriver was often the only way to remove rusted/seized screws, usually of the slotted variety.

[Mr Pointy]

Dr Mike Oxgreen said:

What is the green bit that says Solidor ? Is that the manufacturer of the whole handle assembly?

Solidor is the name of the door manufacturer. They are supposed to be difficult to breach (or were) so quite popular with crims.

https://www.solidor.co.uk/

[jimothyc]

I had a similar issue when I wanted to change mine, just wouldn't budge. Hired a locksmith to change them for me instead, he just used an electric impact driver and out they popped. Wish I'd been brave enough to try that myself.

[Dr Mike Oxgreen]

How do I remove the handles?

Is it just these two screws on the inside, top and bottom, and then both inside and outside handles will come away?

I’m leaning towards a hybrid approach… remove the handles, try and spray some penetrant right where the retaining screw enters the cylinder, then smack it with a manual impact driver.

I might go ahead and order cylinders anyway. Measuring from the middle of the screw head and eyeballing it to the length of the existing barrel (which is a perfect fit) I can tell it’s 35/35.

[Dr Mike Oxgreen]

no eye deer said:

The green piece you can see is a bit like an equivalent to an old style snib/latch button: when you turn the handle and the latch is withdrawn you can slide the plastic piece up to hold the latch in.

Just tried it, and yep - that’s exactly what it does.

[Dr Mike Oxgreen]

I think you’ve confirmed my suspicion that the screw is Philips rather than Pozidriv. It lacks the little diagonal tick marks - that means it’s Philips, right?

[JoshSm]

Dr Mike Oxgreen said:

How do I remove the handles?

Is it just these two screws on the inside, top and bottom, and then both inside and outside handles will come away?

Exactly. Screws go through from the inside and hold into the outside handle. Maybe also check for grub screws in the bottom of the handles.

When taking it apart it's best to hold onto the outer one so it doesn't fall off at it'll likely start to push off as you undo the screws. Inner one will probably hang on long enough via the screws if you just undo them.

[Craikeybaby]

This thread reminded me of the cylinder I have up trying to replace last year. It is on the secondary door in my conservatory - I replaced the cylinder on the main door, which locks into this one. But with all the gubbins to lock the main door to this one I can t see how to get at the grub screw for the cylinder.





Any suggestions?

[E-bmw]

Penetrating oil of any description (of which WD40 is NOT) will likely do nothing even if you cn get it in there as the screw needs to be moving for the "oil" to turn into a "grinding paste" which is how they achieve their best effects.

If I were you, I would be hammering a screwdriver bit in with as much gusto as you dare to hopefully release the hold of any rust/threadlock before trying any more.