Critique/Suggestions for my trip to ride Stelvio...

[CHLEMCBC]

Hi all, I'm planning a trip to ride the Stelvio Pass next June (yes, I know it's likely to be rammed but the plan is to go early morning before the coaches turn up) I'll be in Ypres over D-Day weekend so plan to set off from there on the Monday. This is a prospective route, non-motorway as that's tedious.

Anyone who has experience in the areas we'll go through, please let me know what's good and bad, what must-see I've missed off etc. Any and all suggestions welcome apart from go in May or September! Also any hotels/Airbnbs you have experience of - there's likely to be four of us and secure parking in towns/cities would be very useful:

DAY 1. YPRES TO LUXEMBOURG. 5.5Hrs 07/06
DAY 2. LUXEMBOURG TO HORNBERG 5Hrs 08/06
DAY 3. HORNBERG TO SPONDIGNA (via LEICHTENSTEIN) 6Hrs 09/06
DAY 4. SPONDIGNA TO BORMIO TO MANDELLO DEL LARIO (STELVIO PASS) 3.5-5Hrs 10/06
DAY 5. MANDELLO TO TERRITTET/MONTREUX or THONON-LES-BAINS 6.5Hrs 11/06
DAY 6. MONTREUX TO TROYES 6Hrs 12/06
DAY 7. TROYES TO LE TOUQUET via REIMS 6Hrs 13/06
DAY 8. LE TOUQUET - CALAIS - HOME ???Hrs 14/06

Thanks!

Edited for spillung.

Edited by CHLEMCBC on Thursday 23 July 09:52

[Marquezs Stabilisers]

I've been to Lichtenstein. Apart from going to the tourist office for the passport stamp there's nothing to see there. It's also basically Swiss prices - it's not like going to San Marino or Andorra where everything's much cheaper. Nor is it like Monaco which is an experience!

[CHLEMCBC]

Marquezs Stabilisers said:

I've been to Lichtenstein. Apart from going to the tourist office for the passport stamp there's nothing to see there. It's also basically Swiss prices - it's not like going to San Marino or Andorra where everything's much cheaper. Nor is it like Monaco which is an experience!

Yeah we're just passing through, maybe stop for lunch or coffee. I quite fancy the passport stamp now, though, so thanks for that! I'm disappointed in myself for feeling too hot and knackered to go to Monaco last year. I finished the RGA at Menton and had planned to nip over, but the last hour of the day's riding was in 35C heat and I just didn't fancy it...then I had a beer and really did fancy it!

[tvrolet]

Quite short riding days, but each to his own I'm sure I've done some of these roads/towns but the only comment I'd make is you're doing the Stelvio from Bormio, so going 'up' the easier side, and so going down the steeper/tighter side. Given a choice I think it's better the other way round...and much easier on the brakes going up on the other side and down to Bormio. But since I'm guessing you're heading to the Moto Guzzi museum then that would mean a major re-doing of routes.

[CHLEMCBC]

tvrolet said:

Quite short riding days, but each to his own I'm sure I've done some of these roads/towns but the only comment I'd make is you're doing the Stelvio from Bormio, so going 'up' the easier side, and so going down the steeper/tighter side. Given a choice I think it's better the other way round...and much easier on the brakes going up on the other side and down to Bormio. But since I'm guessing you're heading to the Moto Guzzi museum then that would mean a major re-doing of routes.

You are guessing right...Short days are on purpose - I found last year that 6 hours is about my max now, I like to stop for lunch, and I like to arrive at the accommodation with time to shower and change before foraging for dinner. I'll have another look at the route through the pass, thank you.

(I was hoping you'd show up as I'm aware you've been around these parts a bit)

[tvrolet]

CHLEMCBC said:

tvrolet said:

Quite short riding days, but each to his own I'm sure I've done some of these roads/towns but the only comment I'd make is you're doing the Stelvio from Bormio, so going 'up' the easier side, and so going down the steeper/tighter side. Given a choice I think it's better the other way round...and much easier on the brakes going up on the other side and down to Bormio. But since I'm guessing you're heading to the Moto Guzzi museum then that would mean a major re-doing of routes.

You are guessing right...Short days are on purpose - I found last year that 6 hours is about my max now, I like to stop for lunch, and I like to arrive at the accommodation with time to shower and change before foraging for dinner. I'll have another look at the route through the pass, thank you.

(I was hoping you'd show up as I'm aware you've been around these parts a bit)

Black-K1 is the routemeister for passes and roads in that area (and others). I'm sure he'll be along shortly I just follow other people's routes, and my memory is so bad I can't remember all the pass names I've done, but I know you can also go down the Umbial from near the top of the Stelvio. The Timmelsjoch is great (and a lot more free-flowing than the Stelvio), and an excellent motorcycle museum at the top. And the Gavia pass too. Maybe you can work in some sort of loop so you do the Stelvio 'to' Bormio?

[Linksmas]

CHLEMCBC said:

tvrolet said:

Quite short riding days, but each to his own I'm sure I've done some of these roads/towns but the only comment I'd make is you're doing the Stelvio from Bormio, so going 'up' the easier side, and so going down the steeper/tighter side. Given a choice I think it's better the other way round...and much easier on the brakes going up on the other side and down to Bormio. But since I'm guessing you're heading to the Moto Guzzi museum then that would mean a major re-doing of routes.

You are guessing right...Short days are on purpose - I found last year that 6 hours is about my max now, I like to stop for lunch, and I like to arrive at the accommodation with time to shower and change before foraging for dinner. I'll have another look at the route through the pass, thank you.

I relearnt this lesson on my trip two weeks ago. Up to 6 hours is fun, beyond that I'm just surviving. Also felt like I didn't have time to stop so that I could get to my next hotel at a sensible time for shower, dinner and a bit or decompression before bed.

[baxb]

I've stayed at this place in Vianden in Luxembourg. Right on the border with Germany, they have a garage for bikes & some decent roads around there.

https://hotel-heintz.lu/

[CHLEMCBC]

tvrolet said:

Black-K1 is the routemeister for passes and roads in that area (and others). I'm sure he'll be along shortly I just follow other people's routes, and my memory is so bad I can't remember all the pass names I've done, but I know you can also go down the Umbial from near the top of the Stelvio. The Timmelsjoch is great (and a lot more free-flowing than the Stelvio), and an excellent motorcycle museum at the top. And the Gavia pass too. Maybe you can work in some sort of loop so you do the Stelvio 'to' Bormio?

Thanks again. Yes, a loop would work

[Alex9]

Linksmas said:

CHLEMCBC said:

tvrolet said:

Quite short riding days, but each to his own I'm sure I've done some of these roads/towns but the only comment I'd make is you're doing the Stelvio from Bormio, so going 'up' the easier side, and so going down the steeper/tighter side. Given a choice I think it's better the other way round...and much easier on the brakes going up on the other side and down to Bormio. But since I'm guessing you're heading to the Moto Guzzi museum then that would mean a major re-doing of routes.

You are guessing right...Short days are on purpose - I found last year that 6 hours is about my max now, I like to stop for lunch, and I like to arrive at the accommodation with time to shower and change before foraging for dinner. I'll have another look at the route through the pass, thank you.

I relearnt this lesson on my trip two weeks ago. Up to 6 hours is fun, beyond that I'm just surviving. Also felt like I didn't have time to stop so that I could get to my next hotel at a sensible time for shower, dinner and a bit or decompression before bed.

Same here, plotting a route on Calimoto that comes up as a 6 hour trip, by the time you add fuel and food stops, photo stops and considering speeds may be lower than the limit for various reasons, we're out for about 9 hours... I like a bike trip as much as the next guy, but it's a holiday too!

[CHLEMCBC]

baxb said:

I've stayed at this place in Vianden in Luxembourg. Right on the border with Germany, they have a garage for bikes & some decent roads around there.

https://hotel-heintz.lu/

Even has a picture of a bike in the garage! Thanks for that.

[Dog Star]

I’m unsure why the Stelvio is so revered; there are a lot more roads to drive in the Alps and Jura that are at least as good and without the disadvantages, it’s just so massively overhyped.

If it’s a weekend/nice weather you will be stuck in an endless crocodile of cyclists, buses, motorhomes, groups of same-make sports cars, adventure bikes falling off on the hairpins etc etc. it is rammed.

On the other hand you could experience it like I did with Mrs DS five weeks ago: had it completely to ourselves, nobody there. Why was that? Because it was blowing a blizzard and foggy in parts, there were snowploughs out. We were in my car and I’d not have wanted to be on the bike.

[black-k1]

Alex9 said:

Linksmas said:

CHLEMCBC said:

tvrolet said:

Quite short riding days, but each to his own I'm sure I've done some of these roads/towns but the only comment I'd make is you're doing the Stelvio from Bormio, so going 'up' the easier side, and so going down the steeper/tighter side. Given a choice I think it's better the other way round...and much easier on the brakes going up on the other side and down to Bormio. But since I'm guessing you're heading to the Moto Guzzi museum then that would mean a major re-doing of routes.

You are guessing right...Short days are on purpose - I found last year that 6 hours is about my max now, I like to stop for lunch, and I like to arrive at the accommodation with time to shower and change before foraging for dinner. I'll have another look at the route through the pass, thank you.

I relearnt this lesson on my trip two weeks ago. Up to 6 hours is fun, beyond that I'm just surviving. Also felt like I didn't have time to stop so that I could get to my next hotel at a sensible time for shower, dinner and a bit or decompression before bed.

Same here, plotting a route on Calimoto that comes up as a 6 hour trip, by the time you add fuel and food stops, photo stops and considering speeds may be lower than the limit for various reasons, we're out for about 9 hours... I like a bike trip as much as the next guy, but it's a holiday too!

Having organised Euro trips for other bikers (groups of up to 28 at a time) for the last 28 years (I've just started planning for year 29!) I can say that everyone will want something different. As such commenting on someone else's itinerary has to come with lots of caveats.

For me, such an itinerary would be frustrating because the "good roads" are those in the mountains and the amount of time in the mountains is restricted due to the extended get there/get back times.

Stelvio is pretty boring to ride. It's too narrow, the hairpins are too tight, there's too much traffic and the summit is how you'd imagine Disney would deliver a mountain pass (crowded with gift shops), The views, particularly on the north side, are impressive and it's a box to tick, but there are loads of other passes that I'd rather ride.

I'm sure it will be a great trip and if your stay in Hornberg is at the Hotel Schloss Hornberg then you've made a good choice.

[Marquezs Stabilisers]

baxb said:

I've stayed at this place in Vianden in Luxembourg. Right on the border with Germany, they have a garage for bikes & some decent roads around there.

https://hotel-heintz.lu/

Luxembourg petrol is also substantially cheaper than surrounding countries. Mind and fill up when you're there!

Also have a look at motorradstrassen.de - I used this for my trip to Germany last year and it was a really good source of good rides - better than best bikingroads.com

[Gaz Said]

I'm in Reschen as I write this. I'm doing Stelvio tomorrow at 8am (my 21st time..), but I've already been over in the Dolomites, where some of the best passes are located (the Dolomites, having done most of the Alps is my preferred riding land)- if you are coming all this way, why not explore the swiss passes like Furka, Susten and Fluela or head to the Dolomites-Giau, gardena, sella etc?

[CHLEMCBC]

It's only revered because Clarkson declared it the greatest driving road ever - which kind of puts me off in a way cos I'm not a fan, but because it is so, I want to tick it off.

Thanks for the hotel recommendation, Black K1. Noted

I rode the Susten-Furka-Grimsel triangle last year and won't have time for the dolomites this time, but I'm not dead yet!

[hiccy18]

I've only ridden the Stelvio once, not my favourite ride, but a very memorable evening and one of my favourite bits of the hols. My travelling companions inadvertantly booking rooms at one of the hotels at the top forced the trip up after a long day riding from Venice, getting there after the restaurants were closed and no booking to be found... nevermind, we got some rooms, the bar was open and the views after sunset were breathtaking. Dawn brought the sound of a Porsche owners club tackling the pass before it got "busy" effectively marking the start of the pass being busy! By the time breakfast was done the place was pretty chocka and we descended feeling slightly tired from spending so long at the altitude.

[black-k1]

Gaz Said said:

... If you are coming all this way, why not explore the swiss passes like Furka, Susten ...

The "holy trinity" of Susten, Furka and Grimsel are definitely worth a visit. The are much better to ride than Stelvio.

[Andy XRV]

black-k1 said:

Gaz Said said:

... If you are coming all this way, why not explore the swiss passes like Furka, Susten ...

The "holy trinity" of Susten, Furka and Grimsel are definitely worth a visit. The are much better to ride than Stelvio.

And while in that area, the Tremolastrasse road up to the Gotthardpassis is well worth a ride too.

I still think the Stelvio is a great pass but mainly for the "petrol head" atmosphere as opposed to the ride over the top. As you say, there are far better passes to ride.

[Inky81]

Kyriad in Troyes has an underground garage, is clean and is only a short walk from the square. Think you may have to book the garage in advance, but it has dedicated motorcycle spaces (if I recall correctly).