Used Endurance Bike - sub £1,000 - help me find?
Discussion
Hi - it's been about 20 years since I bought a bike and the leaps and bounds in tech are amazing. I feel quite lost over what to choose and I was hoping PH could help me.
I take a medium frame of about 54 cms. Am 5 foot 8 inches.
I am an average cylcist looking to do the odd 30-40 mile monthly trip out with my friends who are keen cyclists. For me the priorities are comfort with as quick a bike as possible, that can flatter my meager skills if possible!
Doing my reading I think an endurance road bike is for me, but not anything more extreme.
I am completely lost between whether carbon frame are better for someone like me, whether electronic shifting is good to have or wehthe for an older bike like I'm looking at, it's just a headache waiting to happen. The amount of brands out there is mind boggling, and the more I read the more choice I find. Hoping I can get some experienced advice here to cut through the noise!
If you could link to used bikes on either FB marketplace, eBay etc that would be awesome.
I take a medium frame of about 54 cms. Am 5 foot 8 inches.
I am an average cylcist looking to do the odd 30-40 mile monthly trip out with my friends who are keen cyclists. For me the priorities are comfort with as quick a bike as possible, that can flatter my meager skills if possible!
Doing my reading I think an endurance road bike is for me, but not anything more extreme.
I am completely lost between whether carbon frame are better for someone like me, whether electronic shifting is good to have or wehthe for an older bike like I'm looking at, it's just a headache waiting to happen. The amount of brands out there is mind boggling, and the more I read the more choice I find. Hoping I can get some experienced advice here to cut through the noise!
If you could link to used bikes on either FB marketplace, eBay etc that would be awesome.
Wouldn’t worry about electronic gears. Mechanical 105, ultegra etc level gears are perfectly serviceable. More important I think are the bike being set up for disc brakes and tyre clearance. Lots of bikes being sold second hand with rim brakes and tyre clearance for no more than 25mm tyres, really limits wheel and tyre choice. Will also make it easier to sell in the future if you decide to upgrade.
It’s arguable if discs perform much better than rim brakes but it’s much easier to get decent disc wheels these days especially if you want some nice aero rims
hehe
Lots of comfort to be gained through bigger volume tyres, at least 28mm but 30 or 32 are even better if they fit in the frame and not really any slower.
Carbon vs alloy- a decent alloy frame like a Caad 13 will ride great and have minimal weight penalty so would t worry either way if the bike is a decent spec and fits you ok.
It’s arguable if discs perform much better than rim brakes but it’s much easier to get decent disc wheels these days especially if you want some nice aero rims
heheLots of comfort to be gained through bigger volume tyres, at least 28mm but 30 or 32 are even better if they fit in the frame and not really any slower.
Carbon vs alloy- a decent alloy frame like a Caad 13 will ride great and have minimal weight penalty so would t worry either way if the bike is a decent spec and fits you ok.
lufbramatt said:
Lots of comfort to be gained through bigger volume tyres, at least 28mm but 30 or 32 are even better if they fit in the frame and not really any slower.
When I was moving the bikes around the garage a few weekends ago the change in 'Acceptable' tire width over the last decade or so is quite staggering. A decade ago 23mm was the default (I think some people were going down to 19mm), now the 35mm tires on my Creo feels very narrow/twitchy after riding my main commuter bike that has 58mm. I think I would feel scared to ride my old Trek now, despite the fact I did LEJOG on one with no issues. 
A Dolan Adx is probably doable at that budget. British company, great product support even as a second owner, well rated as an endurance bike. Good tyre clearance and you may even get a disc brake version at top of budget. A 54cm/ medium went last week on ebay for £1300 and that was disc, Ultegra and upgraded wheels and other parts. A stock 105 disc for 1k would be a very nice bike indeed.
If you're patient and like tinkering, you could build yourself a brilliant bike for a grand, much lighter and better equipped than anything pre-built, but it would take time to amass the parts.
If you're patient and like tinkering, you could build yourself a brilliant bike for a grand, much lighter and better equipped than anything pre-built, but it would take time to amass the parts.
https://ebay.io/m/yKYpXb
Like this the best I think.
https://ebay.io/m/iW15yP
Lower spec, but lower price. Some Conti GP5000s and a 105 or Ultegra crankset to shed some weight and it's a very versatile machine.
https://ebay.io/m/HvBZr3
A bit racier and probably a bit over what it's worth as the seller seems to be a small business, but it'll be quick. Rim brakes, but if you're OK with tools they're a doddle and perfectly good in 99% of situations.
https://ebay.io/m/XqYxsz
Older, less fashionable option, but decent kit, robust alloy frame and low price for what you get. Max 28mm tyres though which are still comfier than 23mm tyres of old, but a bit slim.
I'd definitely avoid electronic shifting. I'm sure it's great when working, but rather like an electronic handbrake, when it's on the blink, it's a nightmare.
If you want to work on your bike yourself, I'd avoid disc brakes. They're not that hard to do once you have all the kit, but they're just another ballache to deal with. Rim brakes on an alloy braking surface are fine 99% of the time. Unless you plan on bombing Alpine descents, or riding in the pissing rain all the time, rim brakes are fine. They squeak much less too!
Tyres, much like a car, make a huge difference, both in terms of feel and comfort. Continental GP5000s are very popular and with good reason. Unless you are definitely going offroad a lot (not just the odd towpath now and then) stick with road tyres. They're much faster. Tubeless, where there is no innertube, just a sealant liquid sloshing about are worth the faff and allow a more comfortable ride at a lower pressure for little to no loss in speed/rolling resistance. The rims do need to be tubeless ready though. They may not be on an older bike. Gone are they days of 100psi.
Saddle, stem length and bar width are all very personal and affect comfort a lot. https://youtu.be/sHoLQ6IcUGM?si=LqzIG2obb0DTdonA will explain it better than I can, but budgeting for some parts once you've done a few rides would be wise. As would watching a few other videos to get the basic fit right. Essentially, nothing should be really painful or going numb.
A GPS bike computer can seem a bit of a luxury item, but the modern ones are great for routes and can recalculate if you're lost, or find a road is closed. I have crap eyesight, so got a Garmin 1040, but the smaller ones are well priced as they get superseded quite quickly.
Many bikes will come without pedals. If you have some clip-in road (spd) pedals great. If not and you already use them on a mountain bike, I can chuck a set of mtb ones in the post to save buying another pair of shoes. I think they're worth it vs flat pedals. I've used them since about 1996 and I still occasionally topple over, which is undignified, hurts and is very irritating, but worth the risk.
Like this the best I think.
https://ebay.io/m/iW15yP
Lower spec, but lower price. Some Conti GP5000s and a 105 or Ultegra crankset to shed some weight and it's a very versatile machine.
https://ebay.io/m/HvBZr3
A bit racier and probably a bit over what it's worth as the seller seems to be a small business, but it'll be quick. Rim brakes, but if you're OK with tools they're a doddle and perfectly good in 99% of situations.
https://ebay.io/m/XqYxsz
Older, less fashionable option, but decent kit, robust alloy frame and low price for what you get. Max 28mm tyres though which are still comfier than 23mm tyres of old, but a bit slim.
I'd definitely avoid electronic shifting. I'm sure it's great when working, but rather like an electronic handbrake, when it's on the blink, it's a nightmare.
If you want to work on your bike yourself, I'd avoid disc brakes. They're not that hard to do once you have all the kit, but they're just another ballache to deal with. Rim brakes on an alloy braking surface are fine 99% of the time. Unless you plan on bombing Alpine descents, or riding in the pissing rain all the time, rim brakes are fine. They squeak much less too!
Tyres, much like a car, make a huge difference, both in terms of feel and comfort. Continental GP5000s are very popular and with good reason. Unless you are definitely going offroad a lot (not just the odd towpath now and then) stick with road tyres. They're much faster. Tubeless, where there is no innertube, just a sealant liquid sloshing about are worth the faff and allow a more comfortable ride at a lower pressure for little to no loss in speed/rolling resistance. The rims do need to be tubeless ready though. They may not be on an older bike. Gone are they days of 100psi.
Saddle, stem length and bar width are all very personal and affect comfort a lot. https://youtu.be/sHoLQ6IcUGM?si=LqzIG2obb0DTdonA will explain it better than I can, but budgeting for some parts once you've done a few rides would be wise. As would watching a few other videos to get the basic fit right. Essentially, nothing should be really painful or going numb.
A GPS bike computer can seem a bit of a luxury item, but the modern ones are great for routes and can recalculate if you're lost, or find a road is closed. I have crap eyesight, so got a Garmin 1040, but the smaller ones are well priced as they get superseded quite quickly.
Many bikes will come without pedals. If you have some clip-in road (spd) pedals great. If not and you already use them on a mountain bike, I can chuck a set of mtb ones in the post to save buying another pair of shoes. I think they're worth it vs flat pedals. I've used them since about 1996 and I still occasionally topple over, which is undignified, hurts and is very irritating, but worth the risk.
I think you could do a lot worse than a used Cannondale Synapse like this one https://ebay.io/m/QiMpll
You're a size small, you'll find the medium uncomfortable.
I'd go for a secondhand aluminium endurance bike with enough tyre clearance for 32c tyres and minimum Shimano 105 disc groupset.
Absolutely loads of options online but as a guide:
Sporty endurance bikes -
Merida Scultura Endurance
Cube Attain GTC
Canyon Endurace
Comfortable endurance bikes:
Giant Defy
Cannondale Synapse
Trek Domane
Specialized Roubaix - probably not within budget
I'd go for a secondhand aluminium endurance bike with enough tyre clearance for 32c tyres and minimum Shimano 105 disc groupset.
Absolutely loads of options online but as a guide:
Sporty endurance bikes -
Merida Scultura Endurance
Cube Attain GTC
Canyon Endurace
Comfortable endurance bikes:
Giant Defy
Cannondale Synapse
Trek Domane
Specialized Roubaix - probably not within budget
I'm considering upgrading my 2008 Trek Madone 5.1 (full carbon but 10 speed and 23mm wheels).
Heard people raving about Aliexpress carbon bikes and think I'm going to be going for the Seraph TT-X71 as the X-Lab RS7 isn't available in the UK yet. It's about £1600 shipped and you'd probably be paying over £3.5k for a similar spec with Western made components, might be worth a look? Granted it's risky but for half the price a risk I'm prepared to take...
Heard people raving about Aliexpress carbon bikes and think I'm going to be going for the Seraph TT-X71 as the X-Lab RS7 isn't available in the UK yet. It's about £1600 shipped and you'd probably be paying over £3.5k for a similar spec with Western made components, might be worth a look? Granted it's risky but for half the price a risk I'm prepared to take...
Might I suggest the Canyon Endurace AllRoad? I appreciate it's now £1,100 but you'll save on the Cyclescheme if you get it. I ended up paying about £700 for mine. I love it. The CUES groupset might not be as good as the 105, but it's got hydraulic brakes, a wide spread of gears (10sp) including a decent granny gear for steep climbs and the shifting is pretty decent. Tyre clearance up to 40mm and comes with 35mm Schwalbe gravel tyres as standard. I've swapped mine to GP5Ks today but they've been perfectly fine for the last year and 1,000 miles.
Edited by Xenoous on Tuesday 11th August 13:19
Slightly left-field choice, as it a brand that most people (including keen cyclists) haven't heard of
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/157965561009?_skw=neil+...
I bought one of these (Size 56, I'm 5'10") about five years ago for similar money, and I really like it. It's very lightweight, comfortable (I'm getting older, not very flexible and could do with losing a few pounds) and is quite "aero" considering it vintage.
Ultegra gears and crank work well, and parts are waaaay cheaper than for DI2 stuff if you break something.
Rim brakes aren't a problem even when i'm in a group. I'm not doing mountain descents, but I do live in a very hilly area and they stop me absolutely fine. And like someone above said, they are much quieter than discs (when my group stops at a junction its like you pull up with a herd of seals honking).
Tyres - I use 28mm Conti GP5000s, which just clear the frame. Never seen the advantage of going tubeless, as that would need new wheels that cost more than the bike.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/157965561009?_skw=neil+...
I bought one of these (Size 56, I'm 5'10") about five years ago for similar money, and I really like it. It's very lightweight, comfortable (I'm getting older, not very flexible and could do with losing a few pounds) and is quite "aero" considering it vintage.
Ultegra gears and crank work well, and parts are waaaay cheaper than for DI2 stuff if you break something.
Rim brakes aren't a problem even when i'm in a group. I'm not doing mountain descents, but I do live in a very hilly area and they stop me absolutely fine. And like someone above said, they are much quieter than discs (when my group stops at a junction its like you pull up with a herd of seals honking).
Tyres - I use 28mm Conti GP5000s, which just clear the frame. Never seen the advantage of going tubeless, as that would need new wheels that cost more than the bike.
A bit of shopping around might turn up a new bike close to the budget
Only in a 54cm - £1050 with Tiagra hydraulic discs.
https://www.99bikes.co.uk/products/2025-specialize...
If going down the used route, I would echo some of the posts above and look for mechanical shifting with hydraulic discs.
Only in a 54cm - £1050 with Tiagra hydraulic discs.
https://www.99bikes.co.uk/products/2025-specialize...
If going down the used route, I would echo some of the posts above and look for mechanical shifting with hydraulic discs.
Harpoon said:
A bit of shopping around might turn up a new bike close to the budget
Only in a 54cm - £1050 with Tiagra hydraulic discs.
https://www.99bikes.co.uk/products/2025-specialize...
If going down the used route, I would echo some of the posts above and look for mechanical shifting with hydraulic discs.
Looks a great option that... and I agree that hydraulic brakes are essential. Only in a 54cm - £1050 with Tiagra hydraulic discs.
https://www.99bikes.co.uk/products/2025-specialize...
If going down the used route, I would echo some of the posts above and look for mechanical shifting with hydraulic discs.
Just want to echo a lot of the above.
I’m 5ft7 and ride a small in road and gravel bikes.
Must haves; hydraulic discs and 28mm+ tyres.
I’ve been off the bike due to life for near enough a couple of years and have been thinking about a similar endurance style purchase.
I have zero enthusiasm for getting back out on my TCR. Too stiff, too racey, tyres too spindly.
I’m 5ft7 and ride a small in road and gravel bikes.
Must haves; hydraulic discs and 28mm+ tyres.
I’ve been off the bike due to life for near enough a couple of years and have been thinking about a similar endurance style purchase.
I have zero enthusiasm for getting back out on my TCR. Too stiff, too racey, tyres too spindly.
boyse7en said:
Slightly left-field choice, as it a brand that most people (including keen cyclists) haven't heard of
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/157965561009?_skw=neil+...
I bought one of these (Size 56, I'm 5'10") about five years ago for similar money, and I really like it. It's very lightweight, comfortable (I'm getting older, not very flexible and could do with losing a few pounds) and is quite "aero" considering it vintage.
Ultegra gears and crank work well, and parts are waaaay cheaper than for DI2 stuff if you break something.
Rim brakes aren't a problem even when i'm in a group. I'm not doing mountain descents, but I do live in a very hilly area and they stop me absolutely fine. And like someone above said, they are much quieter than discs (when my group stops at a junction its like you pull up with a herd of seals honking).
Tyres - I use 28mm Conti GP5000s, which just clear the frame. Never seen the advantage of going tubeless, as that would need new wheels that cost more than the bike.
This. Buy this. Absolutely a bargain. If I had the money, I'd be buying it myself. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/157965561009?_skw=neil+...
I bought one of these (Size 56, I'm 5'10") about five years ago for similar money, and I really like it. It's very lightweight, comfortable (I'm getting older, not very flexible and could do with losing a few pounds) and is quite "aero" considering it vintage.
Ultegra gears and crank work well, and parts are waaaay cheaper than for DI2 stuff if you break something.
Rim brakes aren't a problem even when i'm in a group. I'm not doing mountain descents, but I do live in a very hilly area and they stop me absolutely fine. And like someone above said, they are much quieter than discs (when my group stops at a junction its like you pull up with a herd of seals honking).
Tyres - I use 28mm Conti GP5000s, which just clear the frame. Never seen the advantage of going tubeless, as that would need new wheels that cost more than the bike.
As for sizing, everyone is different. I'm 5'8 too, and find a 54 cramped, but that's because I've got short legs and a long body. My Planet X 56 is perfect, but the saddle is pretty much on the frame!
First, thank you all for your replies. Truly helpful! I'm going to sit down and digest when I have a moment, but had a quick question.
The Neil Prydze looks like a full on extreme road machine, not an endurance bike? Is that right?
I'm not good enough for a full aero race bike. I just want a nice endurance bike that isn't uncomfortable. Of course, I may be getting hung up on the terminology here and the NP is just fine!
The Neil Prydze looks like a full on extreme road machine, not an endurance bike? Is that right?
I'm not good enough for a full aero race bike. I just want a nice endurance bike that isn't uncomfortable. Of course, I may be getting hung up on the terminology here and the NP is just fine!
Edited by Ffffaster on Tuesday 11th August 17:40
Ffffaster said:
First, thank you all for your replies. Truly helpful! I'm going to sit down and digest when I have a moment, but had a quick question.
The Neil Prydze looks like a full on extreme road machine, not an endurance bike? Is that right?
I don't know whether it was sold as.n endurance or race frame when it was new, but I've been riding mine for 5-6 years now, and I'm no racing snake. I'm 55, not tremendously flexible and I find it fine for my regular 40 mile rides, plus occasional longer stuff.The Neil Prydze looks like a full on extreme road machine, not an endurance bike? Is that right?
I'm 5'8 and ride a small Giant Defy and sizing is perfect for me, but as always you should try both as you're on the cusp, but normal advice is go smaller on a road bike.
You'd get a good Giant Defy at the top of your budget with hydraulic discs, 32 tyres and mechanical 105 or Ultegra. I run mine tubeless, its super comfortable and also quite a quick bike.
You'd get a good Giant Defy at the top of your budget with hydraulic discs, 32 tyres and mechanical 105 or Ultegra. I run mine tubeless, its super comfortable and also quite a quick bike.
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