New car detailing

[Tuftie]

Have a new car coming into the Tuftie household, a mid size SUV and I’ve decided to clay the car and then add a ceramic coating. It’s been a few years since I took on this sort of work, the last time I used Nanolex and it seemed ok, but just wondering what people would recommend for long lasting protection.

The car is dark metallic blue and won’t be garaged, so I’m resigned to reapplying at regular intervals. Thanks in advance.

[Belle427]

Depends if you want a full on ceramic, I'm not really into them so can't advise much but an easy to apply product is something like gyeon cancoat.
Most of their products are top notch to be fair.
I'm trying fusso coat wax at the moment, need to buy some detailing spray soon to use as a topper and sonax bsd may be my choice as its still such a great product.
The market is flooded with products and it's a tough choice.

[Tuftie]

Thanks, I can see there’s an awful lot of choice, though I do like Gyeon products. What’s bsd?

[budgie smuggler]

Tuftie said:

Thanks, I can see there s an awful lot of choice, though I do like Gyeon products. What s bsd?

A quick detailer spray that leaves some protection behind after. Brilliant Shine Detailer

Edited by budgie smuggler on Thursday 20th August 09:04

[Wills2]

If it's a new car it shouldn't need claying or do you mean new to you? Regardless, if you clay the car you'll mar the paint which will then require a polish remove, how do you know the car needs to be clayed? Because if it doesn't then I wouldn't.

[resolve10]

Your biggest challenge on a metallic dark blue car is going to be swirls and holograms in the paint. It's the worst colour after black. Most modern cars have very soft paint so you only have to look at it and it swirls. Here's what I'd do personally:

- Instruct the dealer not to wash it at all, less chance of a poor wash with a dirty sponge inflicting marks.

- Don't clay it - it shouldn't need it unless you're going for absolute concourse perfection and you're more likely to inflict further holograms.

- If you really want to, you could use an iron fallout remover and/or a tar remover as these are spray on, rinse off and will do a similar job to clay on a new car without touching the paint by hand.

- At this stage a full detail would involve some stage of machine polishing but if you don't have one you could hand polish - you probably won't get rid of many swirls or holograms by hand but it will add a bit of gloss.

- Wax / Ceramic coating


To keep it looking its best your washes should be with two buckets - one for soapy water and one for clear water to rinse the sponse after each contact with the car.

[Smint]

I wouldn't clay it either.

You don't need to spend serious money on ceramic coats, i've used Car Plan No1 Supergloss on our various cars to good effect.
Where it really proved itself was when i coated the cab of my then new tractor unit, which had several washes a week every week with hot water pressure washer industrial quality TFR and general purpose washing brushes for agitation, the coating would last around 6 months at a time covering the sort of mileages in all weathers in 6 months that many cars never accomplish.
Best of all its as easy to apply as Mr Sheening your dining table, 20 minutes and the whole vehicle is done, 1 bottle will be enough for around half a dozen treatments.

Project Farm on Youtube has done several ceramic coat comparison videos, unsurprisingly spending 10x the money doesn't necessarily mean 10x the product, the one i use wasn't included in his videos maybe its not widely available in the US.

[Tuftie]

Thanks for the responses, interesting points about using clay, I’ve done it multiple times on new cars without any marring and I’m definitely no expert. I always took the view that brand new cars have spent time in storage and open to the elements such that a full decontamination is in order, but reading here that would seem to amount to using something like ‘Bilt hammer’ rather than a clay bar.

I’m very sceptical about the myriad of products, especially ceramic coatings and I still have some Swisswax knocking about, so maybe I’ll just go for a cleanse, followed by a liquid cleaner then wax.

[Belle427]

A chemical decon would be beneficial if its been sat around, Bilt Hamber korrosol is good for this, spray on and rinse off.

[budgie smuggler]

It depends if you are putting on a proper ceramic coating that lasts multiple years (Gtechniq Crystal Serum/Exo), or just a sealant/hybrid wax/whatever with ceramic in it that lasts 6 months or so (e.g. Gtechniq C2)

If it's a proper one then my understanding is unless the paint is perfect, you really ought to clay, decon, machine polish beforehand because it basically locks in the condition of the paint at that point and requires a machine polish to remove it.

I really rate Gtechniq C2v4. You apply it first undiluted and it lays down a base. Then you use it diluted as a quick detailer to top it up.

Edited by budgie smuggler on Friday 21st August 09:38

[Frankthered]

budgie smuggler said:

It depends if you are putting on a proper ceramic coating that lasts multiple years (Gtechniq Crystal Serum/Exo), or just a sealant/hybrid wax/whatever with ceramic in it that lasts 6 months or so (e.g. Gtechniq C2)

If it's a proper one then my understanding is unless the paint is perfect, you really ought to clay, decon, machine polish beforehand because it basically locks in the condition of the paint at that point and requires a machine polish to remove it.

I really rate Gtechniq C2v4. You apply it first undiluted and it lays down a base. Then you use it diluted as a quick detailer to top it up.

Edited by budgie smuggler on Friday 21st August 09:38

This! I'd actually go a bit further and say, if you really want a multiple year coating, then it might make more sense to find a local detailer to do all the prep and apply it for you.

if you really want to do it yourself, there's a gaping rabbit hole waiting for you! (Ask me how I know!)

The other thing to bear in mind though, is that a lot of the long lasting sealants like Gtechniq C2v4 (and waxes like Fusso Coat) need to be kept dry for a post buff curing period after application - this can be anything from 30 minutes up to 24 hours, so if you are working outside, this is something to keep in mind.

(Actually, there is a new Gtechniq ceramic coating - GT1 - which, according to their website, doesn't need a dry curing period.)