large service void, how to fix base cabinets to wall
large service void, how to fix base cabinets to wall
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craigthecoupe

Original Poster:

1,056 posts

233 months

Friday 21st August
quotequote all
I'm currently building our kitchen, and using some antique units for base cabinets. they are 50cm deep, and the wall of the house quite uneven. I've seen 'space plugs' are designed for similar, but the voids in places will be near 15cm. Im not sure what my best option is? Battening out seems a bit scrappy, not that anyone will see it once complete. I guess two fixings on the back, and maybe a couple into the floor would suffice? (the cabinets sit on the floor, not on legs). Does anyone have any better ideas?

Huzzah

28,933 posts

212 months

Friday 21st August
quotequote all
How about constructing a metal frame from c section stuff used for stud walls? You could build in some adjustability to get everything square.

TheDrownedApe

1,761 posts

85 months

Friday 21st August
quotequote all
usually the weight of the cabinets, contents, worktop and the fact they are screwed together are plenty to avoid the necessity of pinning to the wall.

wolfracesonic

9,174 posts

156 months

Friday 21st August
quotequote all
TheDrownedApe said:
usually the weight of the cabinets, contents, worktop and the fact they are screwed together are plenty to avoid the necessity of pinning to the wall.
I’d have said this but if you’re afraid of the the whole lot tipping forward use some of these into 10mm wall plugs, landscape screws



Slide some 25mm overflow pipe over them to act as the spacer. Regular screws would suffice where the gap is not so large.

craigthecoupe

Original Poster:

1,056 posts

233 months

Friday 21st August
quotequote all
Thanks.


These are the units in question. I too assume they wont really be going anywhere with worktop and everything fixed together. I do plan to make and fit drawers inside, and one will house all the pots and pans which could be a bit heavy. maybe I'mover thinking it?

Nicetobenice

1,442 posts

7 months

Friday 21st August
quotequote all
We had the same issue and ended up leaving the base units unattached to the wall.

They've not moved at all since we put the work top on.

The room is so far off square it's ridiculous so there's quite a bit of filler behind the worktop upstand but once you have stuff in the kitchen and it's being used you don't notice it unless you specifically look.

wolfracesonic

9,174 posts

156 months

Friday 21st August
quotequote all
I don’t think there’s any danger of those tipping over tbh.

Simpo Two

92,642 posts

294 months

Friday 21st August
quotequote all
Yep, I don't think those are going anywhere. But cutting the worktop to the wall will be fun.

craigthecoupe

Original Poster:

1,056 posts

233 months

Friday 21st August
quotequote all
Thanks all.
Simpo Two said:
Yep, I don't think those are going anywhere. But cutting the worktop to the wall will be fun.
Yes, quite. The current idea is to shim out the wall on the low spots, then run backer board in a straightish run and tile onto that. Its a 300 year old house, and finding the balance of cleaning things up, without removing the character of the place is quite a fine line. Fortunately, we are quite comfortable in 'wonky'.

Simpo Two

92,642 posts

294 months

Friday 21st August
quotequote all
craigthecoupe said:
Thanks all.
Simpo Two said:
Yep, I don't think those are going anywhere. But cutting the worktop to the wall will be fun.
Yes, quite. The current idea is to shim out the wall on the low spots, then run backer board in a straightish run and tile onto that. Its a 300 year old house, and finding the balance of cleaning things up, without removing the character of the place is quite a fine line. Fortunately, we are quite comfortable in 'wonky'.
I think straight sections would spoil the character. I'd try to match it to the wall with a jigsaw. Unless you're going to be throwing grease about I'm not convinced you need tiles.

craigthecoupe

Original Poster:

1,056 posts

233 months

Friday 21st August
quotequote all
Simpo Two said:
I think straight sections would spoil the character. I'd try to match it to the wall with a jigsaw. Unless you're going to be throwing grease about I'm not convinced you need tiles.
Whilst I like the idea of not having tiles, I'm a messy cook, and lazy with cleaning. This approach would also mean no chasing into the walls for above counter sockets, there should be just enough room to pull cables if I go down this route. We've found some nice tiles that look almost like earthenware, with some texture, I think they'll look smart. We will keep the floors, and the pear motif from some point in the past. the units should help keep some age in the kitchen, and there's a nice old light fitting i sourced from an antiques/tat dealer. there are a lot of old features in the house that will remain, but that kitchen wall is all over the place.