Lower temp Otter Switch, is it a good thing?

[Andy70]

I just replaced my otter switch with a lower temp one, also replaced the temp sender and relocated it to the higher position, everything works as it should, the fans kick in bang on where they should etc, but I've noticed now the fans are on most of the time it seems, coolant level is good, but since I've done it I've developed a misfire/hesitation perhaps, also when the engine is warm very erratic idle, my thinking is that the engine bay is having hot air almost permanently blown around it possibly overheating the electrics, is it just a coincidence and I'm talking crap, or is there some logic there? the car wasn't running perfect any way, so possibly just finished off what was already failing. I assumed it was a vacuum leak, but maybe my issue was electrical all along, failing leads or coil maybe?

[Belle427]

What temp on the gauge does it drop to?
Could be that it is now overcooling and falling back into its warm up enrichment and overfuelling hence the slightly rough running.
The engine bay is notoriously hard on electrical components but I would refrain from just changing parts willy nilly as most aftermarket stuff is garbage.

Distributor doctor is seen as best for cap and rotor.
Original old stock Lucas on eBay for ignition module, DAB118.
Leads most use either standard V8 ones from craddocks or Mr Retro on ebay.

Magnecor leads are seen as junk by most who know and I seem to remember you have them fitted?

[Andy70]

Its a motaclan 87-82 switch, yes i have magnecor leads, I've been meaning to change them as they do look old and I'll change the distributor cap etc, thanks for the recommendation. One of the jobs i was going to look into one day was ceramic coating on the Y piece and manifolds, its supposed to be quite effective