Anyone got an old o2 sensor I can have?
Discussion
Nope will replace NB with the LC-1 WideB, it has 2 outs, need one out to go to the PCM, hence the old O2 sensor connector, the other to the scanner.
You can program it to perform as a NB.
Yeah I saw the deal with unpowered O2's. Better to take them out as they need power to warm up else the exhaust heat will kill them when cold.
You can program it to perform as a NB.
Yeah I saw the deal with unpowered O2's. Better to take them out as they need power to warm up else the exhaust heat will kill them when cold.
Sorry dude. Mine hit the bin a while back 
Interesting comment. Could you elaborate please? Are the standard Commodore/Monaro O2 sensors heated electrically? If so, at what point during the ignition sequence are they warmed up enough to start the engine? I always wait for all the dash lights to exsinguish (apart from handbrake & battery) before starting the engine (approx 10-15sec).
ringram said:
Yeah I saw the deal with unpowered O2's. Better to take them out as they need power to warm up else the exhaust heat will kill them when cold.
Interesting comment. Could you elaborate please? Are the standard Commodore/Monaro O2 sensors heated electrically? If so, at what point during the ignition sequence are they warmed up enough to start the engine? I always wait for all the dash lights to exsinguish (apart from handbrake & battery) before starting the engine (approx 10-15sec).
Yeah I saw some comments about people concerned and wanting to wait. I understand its best just to fire it up right away else you then risk any initial moisture during cranking hitting the hot o2 and causing the same issue but in reverse.
Im hoping the threads are the same, I guess a retap may be in order if not. Looks like I may have to chop mine in half. I guess I can just wire it back on later if I need to.
Still Im not getting anything till next week so donations will still be gladly recieved... until its too late..
Im hoping the threads are the same, I guess a retap may be in order if not. Looks like I may have to chop mine in half. I guess I can just wire it back on later if I need to.
Still Im not getting anything till next week so donations will still be gladly recieved... until its too late..
If I were you I would put the WB in as well as your narrow band sensor. Then if there is an issue with your WB you will still have two narrow band sensors. The kit you have comes with a weld in bung and plug that fits the sensor. Any exhaust place should be able to put in the hardware. Send me an email if you need any help, I have put a few sensors in.
Thanks Mr Wortec. I saw it come with a bung. But thought if something went weird Id just plug the old NB back in.
Also means my mate in NZ can borrow it when I go there next Jan as its just plug and play.
You havnt got an old sensor by chance? I guess all the Monaros are a bit new to require new ones at the moment. Id think the HSV's might start to be a bit tired by now.
Also means my mate in NZ can borrow it when I go there next Jan as its just plug and play.
You havnt got an old sensor by chance? I guess all the Monaros are a bit new to require new ones at the moment. Id think the HSV's might start to be a bit tired by now.
If I were you I would use the bung and then when you wonted to take it out you can put the plug in. It is des simple and less hassle if you are taking it in an out. You can then mount it at an angle that is better suited to taking it out. I will have a look and see if I have an old sensor cable hanging about. Duncan
>> Edited by wortec2 on Monday 17th October 20:23
>> Edited by wortec2 on Monday 17th October 20:23
GreenV8S said:
You're lucky your WB sensor is the same thread as the NB one, mine wasn't.
Nearly all Lambda sensors are M18x1.5. Apart from some Toyotas which use a bolt on flange, I dont think Ive come across different ones ??
Is it the sensor, or just the wiring connector ? Can you post a pic of your connector ?
I should have some that came with my yank engine, but I'd expect them to be the same.
stevieturbo said:
Nearly all Lambda sensors are M18x1.5. Apart from some Toyotas which use a bolt on flange, I dont think Ive come across different ones ??
The Land Rover ones used by TVR are much much smaller, M14x1.5 I think. They're also deeply recessed inside the exhaust so no ordinary spanners can get them. (I pull the plug off and use a box spanner.)
I have an LM-1 in mine, and sometimes it plays up after having sat for a few minutes, ie when getting fuel, and I have to power it off and on. I wouldn't like to trust it to supply a n/b signal all the time. Maybe the LC-1 is more reliable. You do get a blanking plug for the bung though, so you can put that in if you want to use the w/b sensor in another car. I'd rather just get another w/b sensor, and not use my car, cos mines a right sod to get out :-)
>> Edited by alfienoakes on Wednesday 19th October 08:10
>> Edited by alfienoakes on Wednesday 19th October 08:10
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