HELP - DIY maintenance gone wrong
HELP - DIY maintenance gone wrong
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Discussion

JQ

Original Poster:

6,812 posts

209 months

Yesterday (18:16)
quotequote all
My son and I have spent the day trying to replace the rear drum brakes on his 2014 Skoda Citigo and are failing miserably.

It can be done without removing the rear axle nut but that’s beyond us. So we tried to get the nut off and have rounded it. It’s a FEBI Axle Nut Stub Axle Hub Nut M20x1.5 fits VW Audi Seat Skoda - https://ebay.io/m/jTviON

None of the sockets in my rather large set fitted it, so off we went Halfords and got a 33mm socket that fitted it perfectly. However it appears the socket and nut are both shaffered so don’t perfectly match and we’re slowly rounding the nut. How the hell do we get it off?

We’ve given up for the day and left the car on axle stands but need to try and get it sorted tomorrow. All suggestions are welcome.


Geertsen

1,911 posts

89 months

Yesterday (18:29)
quotequote all
My father-in-law’s suggestion is to drill a small hole in the edge and then use a punch/centre punch to tap it around with a hammer.

I agree with this idea.

Geertsen

1,911 posts

89 months

Yesterday (18:31)
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The hole would obviously be just deep enough to seat the tip of the punch.

gt40steve

1,422 posts

134 months

Yesterday (18:40)
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Have a look on Google. 32mm 12 point socket. Special VAG kit available from Eurocarparts etc.Torque is too high to tap around with a punch too I believe.

gt40steve

1,422 posts

134 months

Yesterday (18:46)
quotequote all
I see the wheel cylinder is removed, it looks like you have already fitted new brake shoes. I don't see the need to remove the hub ?

Yogioes

253 posts

126 months

Yesterday (18:48)
quotequote all
Daft question possibly…..
Are you going in the correct direction?
I know it was a long time ago, but my father got caught out trying to remove the rear hub nut on on the left side of an Austin 18-22 series.
It was a left hand thread on that side.

Jo-say8k

322 posts

46 months

Yesterday (18:56)
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Haynes manual says 70nm +30° and discard and replace the nut.

CSR Performance

678 posts

18 months

Yesterday (19:01)
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Have you got a prime account?

https://amzn.eu/d/0ik5fvVG

gt40steve

1,422 posts

134 months

Yesterday (19:11)
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CSR Performance said:
Have you got a prime account? https://amzn.eu/d/0ik5fvVG
This !

Davie

6,242 posts

245 months

Yesterday (19:12)
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There must be a way to do shoes and cylinder in situ? As above, looks like you've done the hard bit in getting the shoes seated and the springs refitted so what is it you can't do with the hub in place?

JQ

Original Poster:

6,812 posts

209 months

Yesterday (19:41)
quotequote all
Davie said:
There must be a way to do shoes and cylinder in situ? As above, looks like you've done the hard bit in getting the shoes seated and the springs refitted so what is it you can't do with the hub in place?
Just can’t get it seated over the master cylinder, although it was the end of the day and patience was wearing thin. Brute force just wasn’t working. Will have another go in the morning, but in the meantime I’ve ordered the socket very kindly recommended above from Amazon.

Thank you all.

Catnip64

211 posts

129 months

Yesterday (21:50)
quotequote all
JQ said:
Just can t get it seated over the master cylinder, although it was the end of the day and patience was wearing thin. Brute force just wasn t working. Will have another go in the morning, but in the meantime I ve ordered the socket very kindly recommended above from Amazon.

Thank you all.
Just spread the shoes and slide in the brake cylinder. Release the shoes and seat the ends in the slots.


shtu

4,528 posts

176 months

Yesterday (21:54)
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Catnip64 said:
Just spread the shoes and slide in the brake cylinder. Release the shoes and seat the ends in the slots.
That should be possible, you really shouldn't need to remove the hub to do the brakes.

CSR Performance

678 posts

18 months

Yesterday (22:50)
quotequote all
JQ said:
Just can t get it seated over the master cylinder, although it was the end of the day and patience was wearing thin. Brute force just wasn t working. Will have another go in the morning, but in the meantime I ve ordered the socket very kindly recommended above from Amazon.

Thank you all.
Good luck. It will probably go back together in about 10
minutes in the morning! Been there many times myself.

njw1

2,786 posts

141 months

Yesterday (23:30)
quotequote all
gt40steve said:
Torque is too high to tap around with a punch too I believe.
What you need then is a chisel and a bigger hammer... wink Or an air chisel...

TriumphStag3.0V8

5,480 posts

111 months

Yesterday (23:48)
quotequote all
There should be no need to remove the hub or hub nut - in fact it probably won't help. If you can't spread the shoes wide enough, take the top spring off the shoes, slide the cylinder in, then have a fight getting the spring back on.

E-bmw

13,430 posts

182 months

TriumphStag3.0V8 said:
There should be no need to remove the hub or hub nut - in fact it probably won't help. If you can't spread the shoes wide enough, take the top spring off the shoes, slide the cylinder in, then have a fight getting the spring back on.
^^^^ Wot 'e said.

100% no need to take the hub off.

You should have put the cylinder in first, then either fit the spring & lever the shoe ends in place or put the shoes in place & wrestle the spring in position.

This is the best tool for fitting the spring, but good pliers can normally do the job with a few grunts.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/168618696378?_skw=brake...

normalbloke

8,891 posts

249 months

E-bmw said:
TriumphStag3.0V8 said:
There should be no need to remove the hub or hub nut - in fact it probably won't help. If you can't spread the shoes wide enough, take the top spring off the shoes, slide the cylinder in, then have a fight getting the spring back on.
^^^^ Wot 'e said.

100% no need to take the hub off.

You should have put the cylinder in first, then either fit the spring & lever the shoe ends in place or put the shoes in place & wrestle the spring in position.

This is the best tool for fitting the spring, but good pliers can normally do the job with a few grunts.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/168618696378?_skw=brake...
I seem to have acquired a couple of spring puller tools that came free with trampolines, when they were a thing. One of the handiest tools I’ve ever not bought.

_Rodders_

4,385 posts

49 months

You're unlikely to be able to chisel or punch that off IMO. Would be easier to Dremel a slit in it, and that wouldn't be that easy.

Ideally you need the correct socket. And double ideally a beefy impact gun. A proper one would whizz that off in 3 seconds.

dontlookdown

2,514 posts

123 months

The most cost effective, reliable way of getting that off is a hex headed air socket and a long breaker bar, as others have suggested. Make sure the car is secure on it's stands.

I would prob try punching it round first, just in case. But that may not work.

Not sure why you need to get it off to do the brake shoes, but that's another question;) Besides, the nut is mullered now so needs changing anyway.