To underseal or not to underseal...
Discussion
I have a 2014 Vanquish in very good condition. I was swapping notes with the previous owner and he recommended that for year round use, as it will be, I should consider getting it undersealed.
Last time I did this was with a TVR Griffith 25 years ago.It went on a ramp, had black waxoyl painted on the chassis and cost about £50. Great.
Now of course we're in Astonland and things get more complicated. Local garages either aren't interested or I don't trust them with it. It's not something I can DIY. Anyway, I ended up swapping e-mails with a helpful chap called Pete Hamber, of Bilt Hamber, who by all accounts seem to make the best underseal. He recommended a chap who can come to my house, jack the car up, take off the wheels (and presumably undertrays though we didn't get to that level of detail) and apply clear or black BH underseal. Sounds ideal.
But with travel it would cost £575, which puts it into the 'Do I really need it that badly?' territory.
What does the panel think?
Last time I did this was with a TVR Griffith 25 years ago.It went on a ramp, had black waxoyl painted on the chassis and cost about £50. Great.
Now of course we're in Astonland and things get more complicated. Local garages either aren't interested or I don't trust them with it. It's not something I can DIY. Anyway, I ended up swapping e-mails with a helpful chap called Pete Hamber, of Bilt Hamber, who by all accounts seem to make the best underseal. He recommended a chap who can come to my house, jack the car up, take off the wheels (and presumably undertrays though we didn't get to that level of detail) and apply clear or black BH underseal. Sounds ideal.
But with travel it would cost £575, which puts it into the 'Do I really need it that badly?' territory.
What does the panel think?
Edited by Simpo Two on Tuesday 6th October 13:36
Simpo Two said:
Topsides are carbon fibre; underneath not sure exactly - much is covered by undertrays - but rear subframes are prone to corrosion and in bad cases have to be refurbished. It's the VH3 platform.
Underneath is a mixture of steel and ally... A perfect recipe for bi-metalic corrosion. So like TVRs, the fibreglass/carbon will continue to look great on top but can hide a horror story underneath!!
M
I'd say it depends on it being a real keeper.
If so get some quotes for dry ice blasting and then have it ACF50 sprayed soon after - Aston dealers offer this.
https://www.hwmastonmartin.co.uk/service-parts-off...
You can then look to top it up every couple of years as deemed necessary.
If so get some quotes for dry ice blasting and then have it ACF50 sprayed soon after - Aston dealers offer this.
https://www.hwmastonmartin.co.uk/service-parts-off...
You can then look to top it up every couple of years as deemed necessary.
I had this done on my previous V12S vantage, dry ice and lanoguard, where are you located?
V8 Minotaur said:
I'd say it depends on it being a real keeper.
If so get some quotes for dry ice blasting and then have it ACF50 sprayed soon after - Aston dealers offer this.
https://www.hwmastonmartin.co.uk/service-parts-off...
You can then look to top it up every couple of years as deemed necessary.
If so get some quotes for dry ice blasting and then have it ACF50 sprayed soon after - Aston dealers offer this.
https://www.hwmastonmartin.co.uk/service-parts-off...
You can then look to top it up every couple of years as deemed necessary.
Thanks for the varied replies. I chose Bilt Hamber because it lasts longer than Lanoguard or ACF50. However for more info this is the chap's website - as far as I can tell he seems to have every angle covered: https://mobilerustdoctor.com/
Surley bilthammer is only a surface treatment, lanoguard gets into open end ed cross members etc and protects it all.
Simpo Two said:
Thanks for the varied replies. I chose Bilt Hamber because it lasts longer than Lanoguard or ACF50. However for more info this is the chap's website - as far as I can tell he seems to have every angle covered: https://mobilerustdoctor.com/
Cant imagine its going to be a particuarly thorough job for £575.
Having done a lot of this over the years, i couldnt do it for less than £2k. But id be removing the extraneous clutter, undertrays, covers, arch liners, exhaust etc. needle scaling any rust, rust convertor, then patch epoxy where necessary. After that, 2K seam sealer on every joint/lap joint etc that doest already have factory stuff on it. Then underseal, plus dynax S50 in all the cavities.
Im currently doing mine, ill be over 100 hours in by the time im done, though i have gone further removing subframes etc.
Ive actually got a thread going in readers rides if you are really bored.
For a decent car, i wanted to keep, i wouldnt be spending 600 notes on a job in your drive.
Having done a lot of this over the years, i couldnt do it for less than £2k. But id be removing the extraneous clutter, undertrays, covers, arch liners, exhaust etc. needle scaling any rust, rust convertor, then patch epoxy where necessary. After that, 2K seam sealer on every joint/lap joint etc that doest already have factory stuff on it. Then underseal, plus dynax S50 in all the cavities.
Im currently doing mine, ill be over 100 hours in by the time im done, though i have gone further removing subframes etc.
Ive actually got a thread going in readers rides if you are really bored.
For a decent car, i wanted to keep, i wouldnt be spending 600 notes on a job in your drive.
Simpo Two said:
The V12 Way said:
Surley bilthammer is only a surface treatment, lanoguard gets into open end ed cross members etc and protects it all
Are they not applied in the same way? (not sure if spray or brush). Lanoguard only lasts a year I hear; waxoyl on my Griffith lasted about 10.If you want to do it properly and will last for over 20 years do this -
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
It took me a few months to do working some weekends, not very difficult.
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
It took me a few months to do working some weekends, not very difficult.
paulrog1 said:
If you want to do it properly and will last for over 20 years do this -
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
It took me a few months to do working some weekends, not very difficult.
What, remove a perfectly good subframe?https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
It took me a few months to do working some weekends, not very difficult.
I have no facilities, no automotive tools, no indoor space to work in and no knowledge. Other than that I'm all set.
If the panel thinks that £575 is too cheap - it was about double what I was expecting - I'll leave it. It's underseal, not a respray...
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