997.1 underbody and wheel arch corrosion protection
Discussion
looking for some advice please, should i invest in underbody and wheel arch corrosion protection for my 06 plate 997.1? i’m not technically minded so would also appreciate any advice on type of protection.
if needed should i wait for the suspension jobs to be completed 1st (amber) warning from
local specialist on suspension wear and tear.
if needed should i wait for the suspension jobs to be completed 1st (amber) warning from
local specialist on suspension wear and tear.
if you haven't already done so;- get all the arch liners off- especially the rears- and the "shark fin" deflectors in front of them and clean all the muck out. I did mine every year during the 10 years I owned it and it was corrosion free when I sold it last month. If its already rotting; get rid of the rust and get as much protection down on those areas. The steel tie bars on the rear are also prone to rotting; again; remove them and get back to bare metal before repaint and treating; be prepared to repeat this every 2-3 years
Rusting arches are a real threat on these _ and expensive to fix properly - so, as above, do remove the arch liners, sill vents, and vanes in front of rear wheels and clean thoroughly
Just done mine for second time in 18 years and everything looks like new.
Buy a bag full of fixings from your OPC - you will need them.
Use Bilt Hamber UB if you want the best, and lasting, protection. Two coats, at least 24 hours apart. And Dynax S50 in sill cavities.
You should also wire brush, rust treat and cover the rear cross braces too.
Last time (5 years ago) I removed all the belly pans as well and applied Dynax, but they looked clean and perfect so not bothered this time.
Do NOT use Waxoyl. Lanoguard is popular but Google Dynax versus Lanoguard before you decide
PS don't wait for the suspension.
Just done mine for second time in 18 years and everything looks like new.
Buy a bag full of fixings from your OPC - you will need them.
Use Bilt Hamber UB if you want the best, and lasting, protection. Two coats, at least 24 hours apart. And Dynax S50 in sill cavities.
You should also wire brush, rust treat and cover the rear cross braces too.
Last time (5 years ago) I removed all the belly pans as well and applied Dynax, but they looked clean and perfect so not bothered this time.
Do NOT use Waxoyl. Lanoguard is popular but Google Dynax versus Lanoguard before you decide

PS don't wait for the suspension.
Edited by MinchCS on Wednesday 28th October 20:24
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