Dash LCD failure
Discussion
nubbin said:
Has anyone else had black lines appearing across the dash LCD, caused by some sort of failure in the electrics. If so, how much to sort out? It was fine when I left it, but after it came back from HHC it was in a mess.
Loose connector? I'm sure I had this on the T350. Its pretty easy to pop the instrument pod off and wiggle stuff. There's a couple or three flat cables that connect it to the ECU - perhaps one is not properly seated.
neil.b said:
Has anyone else had black lines appearing across the dash LCD, caused by some sort of failure in the electrics. If so, how much to sort out? It was fine when I left it, but after it came back from HHC it was in a mess.
Loose connector? I'm sure I had this on the T350. Its pretty easy to pop the instrument pod off and wiggle stuff. There's a couple or three flat cables that connect it to the ECU - perhaps one is not properly seated.
Thanks Neil - I've never looked at the dash pod mounting - is it easy to free the unit?
Incidentally, why did you get rid of your 350Z - it sounded like a real beast with the supercharger fitted!
Nubbin, can you let me know (preferably by mail) how/when you get this sorted?
A mate of mine has just put down a deposit on a Tuscan S with the VERY same problem. He has been quoted between £300 - £500 from a dealer to fix it
If its a loose cable, it could well make his day....
Cheers pal,
Greg
A mate of mine has just put down a deposit on a Tuscan S with the VERY same problem. He has been quoted between £300 - £500 from a dealer to fix it
If its a loose cable, it could well make his day....
Cheers pal,
Greg
nubbin said:
nubbin said:
Has anyone else had black lines appearing across the dash LCD, caused by some sort of failure in the electrics. If so, how much to sort out? It was fine when I left it, but after it came back from HHC it was in a mess.
Loose connector? I'm sure I had this on the T350. Its pretty easy to pop the instrument pod off and wiggle stuff. There's a couple or three flat cables that connect it to the ECU - perhaps one is not properly seated.
Thanks Neil - I've never looked at the dash pod mounting - is it easy to free the unit?
Incidentally, why did you get rid of your 350Z - it sounded like a real beast with the supercharger fitted!
If you look to the underside of the pod, there are two vertical bolts. You need to unscrew these and then, I think, you need to pop off the rotary controls (little grub screw holds them in place). From there its just a case of wrestling the pod off. I've done it, which means it must be pretty easy.
I sold the Z as I really needed a four seater. Instead of just gettng a four-seater run-about, I thought it would be best to sell the Z and buy the Mustang. Had to sell the Mustang as I just did not like the handling one bit.
Hindsight is a wonderful thing, is it not?
I miss it. It was a really great car. M3 performance but with a bit more style and exclusivity, IMHO. Just a shame they didn't make it in 2+2 or something like the TT.
anonymous said:
[redacted]
What's money for if not for spending?
I got killed on the T350, killed on the Z (but that was due to the silly amount I spent modifying it) but did alright out of the Stang
. Go figure. Just sold my Elise too so all I've got is an S3 at the moment. And the girlfriends Figaro for when I want to get the wind in my hair.
anonymous said:
[redacted]
Shortlist, for various reasons;
T350 (i know, see my recent post in here)
Evo 7/8
Skyline
Some Caterham variant, a superlight or a R400/500 maybe
Cobra replica (just because I love them)
Probably stick out the winter and then look seriously in spring, depending on the car in question of course. It will be to run along side the S3. That's a keeper, cracking all-rounder and a smidgen of luxury
I had problems with black lines appearing on the LCD display recently, also 'white outs' on the display where all pixels are on.
Took the car to a main dealer. They quoted "one week max".
THEY KEPT THE CAR FOR A WHOLE MONTH, SENT THE POD TO THE FACTORY TWICE (IT CAME BACK WORSE AFTER THE FIRST TIME), AND NOW I FINALLY HAVE THE CAR BACK AND THE PROBLEM HAS RETURNED!
Not only that, but the MPH readout on the LCD now keeps flicking to 0 MPH as I'm driving along. Also there is a nasty rattle from somewhere around the pod.
Don't even get me started on the other problems the dealer was supposed to fix while they had the car, BUT DIDN'T. Or the new problems they caused while working on the car.
I WOULD RECOMMEND IGNORING THE BLACK LINES ON THE DISPLAY. It's a pretty minor fault and it isn't worth risking a major hastle to get it fixed and being without your car for a long time. Wait until the car is next in for a service IMO.
Unless you can fix it yourself of course.
>> Edited by mikesum on Tuesday 18th October 11:11
Took the car to a main dealer. They quoted "one week max".
THEY KEPT THE CAR FOR A WHOLE MONTH, SENT THE POD TO THE FACTORY TWICE (IT CAME BACK WORSE AFTER THE FIRST TIME), AND NOW I FINALLY HAVE THE CAR BACK AND THE PROBLEM HAS RETURNED!
Not only that, but the MPH readout on the LCD now keeps flicking to 0 MPH as I'm driving along. Also there is a nasty rattle from somewhere around the pod.
Don't even get me started on the other problems the dealer was supposed to fix while they had the car, BUT DIDN'T. Or the new problems they caused while working on the car.
I WOULD RECOMMEND IGNORING THE BLACK LINES ON THE DISPLAY. It's a pretty minor fault and it isn't worth risking a major hastle to get it fixed and being without your car for a long time. Wait until the car is next in for a service IMO.
Unless you can fix it yourself of course.
>> Edited by mikesum on Tuesday 18th October 11:11
neil.b said:
Shortlist, for various reasons;
T350 (i know, see my recent post in here)
Evo 7/8
Skyline
Some Caterham variant, a superlight or a R400/500 maybe
Cobra replica (just because I love them)
Probably stick out the winter and then look seriously in spring, depending on the car in question of course. It will be to run along side the S3. That's a keeper, cracking all-rounder and a smidgen of luxury
I've had experience of the T350, Skyline and the Caterham. I've driven an Evo 6 but not a 7/8. Never been in a cobra replica but totally get the appeal. The trouble is you might suffer from upgrade itis in a big way with that.
T350 was fantastic and apart from an electric window glitch, trouble free but there's always that nagging doubt about it getting you to your destination. Which is mostly unfair but it's there.
Skyline R34 with a bit of tuning was amazing and sounded glorious. It's uniquely revvy for a turbo and had an unforgettable wail up to 8000 rpm with a Nismo exhaust. Despite quite a bit of weight it was the best standard road car I've ever driven on a track. Very adjustable, very balanced, very little understeer, very tidy. Massive fun in fact. The only downside it due in part to it being good on the track. It was ridiculously stiff. There is just no other way to get a heavy car to handle on the track. But it was uncomfortable and tramlined like a bastard. I'd like to say it was trouble free but the rear wheel steering went a bit funny and I didn't trust it after that.
Besides, good as it was round a track my Caterham 7 was and still is in a different league. If you haven't driven a good one on a circuit, do so as soon as possible. It took my brother 3 laps of Brands before he ordered one. He had one of the last JPE's. Mine's a superlight R with an R500 motor. My advice is get all the power you can because once warm the Avon ACB10's can handle any amount of power with ease. Plus you'll be so much faster round the corners than any (and I do mean any) so called 'supercar' it's nice to be able to keep ahead of them on the straights.
Only at Spa did I feel I could do with something more aerodynamic, other than that, porsches and ferraris galore have to move aside on the straights as well as the corners. The list of scalps is endless and I still can't quite believe how slow something like a 911 GT3 is round a circuit in comparison. And yes - that's with good drivers behind the wheel too for the cynics out there. Even with a muppet like me behind the wheel my car has lapped Brands Gp in 1.40 and that's on road tyres. The front runners in BTCC lap in the 1.36's and they're on slicks.
The evo is i'm sure, the great allrounder in the list but the t350 is much the most caterham-like of the proper cars. It's a very similar design underneath being front-mid engined and all but it's a more comfortable road car than the skyline.
Oh the agony of choice!
Back on topic.
Pod comes out very easily via the 2 bolts under the dash. Don't overtighten them when you put it back.
The 3 computer type flat wire multi-connector cables travel down to the driver's footwell where the dash ECU is housed on the right hand side next to your foot.
I suspect you may have water ingress into the ECU - it's not the best place to put the thing. I was thinking of sorting out some plastic sheeting around this area before winter incase of ice causing water ingress via the door seals.
Anyway, if you have some time I would take the whole lot out (pod and ECU), open it all up and have a good look around on the kitchen table. Check for dry solder joints on the pod circuit board as well.
May save yourself a few quid plus still have the car to drive.
Pod comes out very easily via the 2 bolts under the dash. Don't overtighten them when you put it back.
The 3 computer type flat wire multi-connector cables travel down to the driver's footwell where the dash ECU is housed on the right hand side next to your foot.
I suspect you may have water ingress into the ECU - it's not the best place to put the thing. I was thinking of sorting out some plastic sheeting around this area before winter incase of ice causing water ingress via the door seals.
Anyway, if you have some time I would take the whole lot out (pod and ECU), open it all up and have a good look around on the kitchen table. Check for dry solder joints on the pod circuit board as well.
May save yourself a few quid plus still have the car to drive.
The lines in the display on my T350 got steadily worse until I could hardly read the big figures let alone small writing like the mileage (which i had not seen for a month).
I got my dealer to remove the unit and send to TVR. One week on and I have got it back and its perfect. I think it was under £200.
I got my dealer to remove the unit and send to TVR. One week on and I have got it back and its perfect. I think it was under £200.
GregE240 said:
Nubbin, can you let me know (preferably by mail) how/when you get this sorted?
A mate of mine has just put down a deposit on a Tuscan S with the VERY same problem. He has been quoted between £300 - £500 from a dealer to fix it
If its a loose cable, it could well make his day....
Cheers pal,
Greg
I'll let you know after a bit of investigation
Nubbin,
I used to get this on start up. Apparently did it from new. If i switched the ignition off and back on again screen fired up as normal. The factory sorted it at first service. They changed the ECU. I was told that the liquid crystals need a power spike to warm them up when you first start up? Sorry don't know how much though, was done under warranty.
J
I used to get this on start up. Apparently did it from new. If i switched the ignition off and back on again screen fired up as normal. The factory sorted it at first service. They changed the ECU. I was told that the liquid crystals need a power spike to warm them up when you first start up? Sorry don't know how much though, was done under warranty.
J
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