Test driving a Chimp - new to TVR

[fimbo]

Hi all. On this forum lots has been said about how different one chim is from another - to help me sort the good'uns from the not so's (in terms of driving one) what are the different characteristics I should watch out for/will notice. I know that condition is important but hopefully that will be obvious from an inspection and the car's history/records.

Thanks for your help.

[Parrot of doom]

Well, have a search on the physical aspects (chassis etc), but:

Starts immediately when cold
Revs cleanly
No flat spots in acceleration
Watch the driver, if he canes it when the engine is cold steer clear (IMO)
No squeaks
No play in steering at rest
Test on motorway at high speed for wheel balance issues
Drives straight and true, brakes in a straight line
Pulls in any gear at any speed above about 1200rpm
Starts without hesitation when engine warm
Fans come on when engine getting hot


Plus all the other stuff you'd check on a 2nd hand car, lights, electrics, etc

[chassis 33]

Sadly history and records arent enough, check check and triple check everything, then check it again. My car came with a FTVRSH and what appeared to be nominal surface rust on the underside of the outriggers, however 10years and abnormally high miles (120k) the outriggers are in the state pictured here www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=215036&f=8&h=0

Don't take my car as representative, however use it as a reminder to make sure of everything!

Regards
Iain

[richb]

Parrot of doom said:

Well, have a search on the physical aspects (chassis etc)...

especially look at the out-riggers as these tend to collect dirt/sand/mud which in turn will rust the chassis. Check the corners of the chassis inside the front wheel arches where you will see a triangular plate and at the rear there is a plate that locates the body as this is mostly where it collects.

[Nuggs]

Test driving a chimp? I'm telling the RSPCA...

[fimbo]

thanks for all this (and Nuggs for his contribution) - do you think if I ask nicely, offer a pint or two and perhaps a few quid, I might persuade a PHer near to the location of chosen beast to given me a second opo?

Do you think its worth calling the garage that services the car for their input on the car's condition - hopefully, it will have been inspected as part of the service? Wishful thinking?!?

[Tyre Smoke]

fimbo said:

thanks for all this (and Nuggs for his contribution) - do you think if I ask nicely, offer a pint or two and perhaps a few quid, I might persuade a PHer near to the location of chosen beast to given me a second opo? Do you think its worth calling the garage that services the car for their input on the car's condition - hopefully, it will have been inspected as part of the service? Wishful thinking?!?

Yes, yes and no.

[kenny chim 4]

fimbo's profile said:

Currently trying to justify (to my wife) replacing my cheap, reliable but boring Rover 214 Convertible (my ride to and from the station) with a TVR Chimaera.

I wouldn't recommend getting a TVR to fullfil that function- unless you live at least 30 minutes (driving) away from that station.

These cars really need to heat to optimum temperature, per journey, or they tend to suffer premature engine wear.

Buy one, forget the train then drive to work

[Parrot of doom]

Sorry, but I've never understood that one. Are people saying that it makes any difference to engine wear whatsoever, the length of time you drive it? To my mind, the longer you drive the car, the more the engine wears - period.

I mean, it always starts up cold. Always. Then it warms up. Then its warm. Then you stop and it cools down.

Now what difference to engine wear could it possibly make if you remove the 'then its warm' bit? Is there some magic that happens when the engine is warm, that rebuilds the engine? Some kind of nano-technology?

AFAIK the only difference is the amount of thrashing you give it, which should never happen when its cold. Don't thrash it ever if the engine isn't getting warmed up on a short drive and I don't see why the engine should wear any more than on a long journey. I could be wrong, so I'd like to be corrected if so.

>> Edited by Parrot of doom on Thursday 20th October 00:25

[fatboychim]

Parrot of doom said:

Sorry, but I've never understood that one. Are people saying that it makes any difference to engine wear whatsoever, the length of time you drive it? To my mind, the longer you drive the car, the more the engine wears - period. I mean, it always starts up cold. Always. Then it warms up. Then its warm. Then you stop and it cools down. Now what difference to engine wear could it possibly make if you remove the 'then its warm' bit? Is there some magic that happens when the engine is warm, that rebuilds the engine? Some kind of nano-technology? AFAIK the only difference is the amount of thrashing you give it, which should never happen when its cold. Don't thrash it ever if the engine isn't getting warmed up on a short drive and I don't see why the engine should wear any more than on a long journey. I could be wrong, so I'd like to be corrected if so. >> Edited by Parrot of doom on Thursday 20th October 00:25

What you say is correct, but the issue with short journeys is that you do proportionally more miles when cold.

e.g. A 40000 mile car may have done 4000x10 mile journeys or 40x1000 mile journeys. Car 1 has done 40000 cold miles car two has done perhaps less than 1000 cold miles.

All things being equal the short journey car will likely show more signs of engine wear

[900T-R]

Keep in mind, that most of the engine wear occurs at cold start-up, so actually the # of cold starts would be a better indicator for engine wear/condition than the mileage. Also, the first kilometre travelled causes as much wear (and harmful exhaust emissions, BTW) as the next 20 km.

Also, when the car is only used for short runs, the engine never warms up properly and harmful combustion byproducts as well as condensation stay in the engine oil rather instead of evaporating and being blown out the tailpipe. Also the exhaust will rust out rather quicker.

So all in all, when choosing a 1 year old vehicle for instance, I'd rather have that's been up and down the motorway for 75 miles twice a working day, than a 'low mileage'car that's been used for the school run (2 miles), then to Tesco's (1 mile) later at the day and again for the school run in the afternoon.

>> Edited by 900T-R on Thursday 20th October 07:46

[Parrot of doom]

Thanks 900T, thats actually taught me something today I was always under the impression that short journies, long journies, so long as the car wasn't mistreated it made no real difference.