Discussion
Hi Guys, will be taking the engine out soon. I am looking around to see what can be done. Nothing too wild now guys. Do I take it to 3.9 or leave it at 3.5. What hotter cam can I use. Air flow meter, inj's manifolds etc etc etc......... please list below what you suggest.
p.s sod the price !!
p.s sod the price !!
Blimey!
this is more a question of how fast do you want to go?
First off
does your existing engine need rebuilding / replacing?
How much do you have to spend?
Does the rest of the car need better brakes / suspension 1st?
Don't forget to budget 800-1000 quid post any major engine mod for re-mapping / replacing the ECU
Matt
this is more a question of how fast do you want to go?
First off
does your existing engine need rebuilding / replacing?
How much do you have to spend?
Does the rest of the car need better brakes / suspension 1st?
Don't forget to budget 800-1000 quid post any major engine mod for re-mapping / replacing the ECU
Matt
www.rpiv8.com/engine-1-new.htm
www.lundengines.com/
www.djev8.com/
www.v8tuner.co.uk/category.php?id=28
Spoke to all these guys on the phone prices vary
>> Edited by pwd95 on Monday 24th October 13:15
www.lundengines.com/
www.djev8.com/
www.v8tuner.co.uk/category.php?id=28
Spoke to all these guys on the phone prices vary
>> Edited by pwd95 on Monday 24th October 13:15
uglymug said:
p.s sod the price !!
In that case, get a 4.6 Rangie engine, running GEMS/Sagem and sit back in the safe knowledge that you never have set the car up on a rolling road again. The only problem is that the GEMS setup can mask fundamental problems with the engine.
Got a standard engine, want to bolt on some better heads, GEMS will remap itself for you, want a wilder cam, GEMS will remap itself for you, can't find an Optimax station, GEMS will remap itself for you. All you need to do is drive for a few miles.
Regards
Iain
chassis 33 said:
GEMS will remap itself for you, All you need to do is drive for a few miles.
Regards
Iain
Although I know nothing about this management system, I assume it re-maps by using data from the exhaust gas probe/s. If that is the case, will it not correct to the theoretical 14.7:1 air/fuel ratio, whereas i thought that for max. power output, lambda should be slightly richer than that?
7.
chassis 33 said:
Thats why you get Mark Adams to chip it for you 
Regards
Iain
As in every time engine changes are made, or does the chip change the fuelling / ignition by a fixed fixed amount over the base lambda whatever is done to the engine thereafter?
Just curious, nothing more.
7.
Nope, my understanding of it is that you change (both) the EPROM chips in it the once, and the 2x 32bit processors do the rest for you.
Atleast thats the jist of what Mark told me on Friday. If i can get the cash together its the setup I want to run on my Chimaera racer, and then just have a road session/ECU interrogation every so often to make sure everything is as it should be.
To retrofit GEMS to an earlier block you need serpenting front cover, a 32-1 crank trigger either on the crank pulley or flywheel (preferably the flywheel), and a GEMS timing wheel on the cam with a sensor bored into the blank on the timing cover.
Regards
Iain
Atleast thats the jist of what Mark told me on Friday. If i can get the cash together its the setup I want to run on my Chimaera racer, and then just have a road session/ECU interrogation every so often to make sure everything is as it should be.
To retrofit GEMS to an earlier block you need serpenting front cover, a 32-1 crank trigger either on the crank pulley or flywheel (preferably the flywheel), and a GEMS timing wheel on the cam with a sensor bored into the blank on the timing cover.
Regards
Iain
Right tuning up the 3.5 is fine, first off, re-work the heads to give a better port shape or buy a pair already fettled with larger inlet valves, next fit a higher lift / longer duration cam, the cam will determine the engine's torque curve so ask around (a lot) about what you want from your engine. If the engine is original chances are it'll need a re-bore, crank grind new shells etc etc. Some of the original parts ( timing chain, cam followers) are pretty dire and should be exchanged for performance bits in any case. Std output from the 350i V8 is around 200Bhp with head and cam work you should be able to make another 20-25Bhp if you bump up the compression a bit (10.25:1 absolute max if you don't have mapped ignition) then a bit more.
Also you'll need remap work when its all completed, don't just bump the fuel pressure up - its a bodge.
I'd reccommend buying the latest Des Hamill book about the RV8 'How to power tune the rover V8' as all this work is covered and he offers plenty of pointers on making it reliable as well as powerful.
Then once you're bored with the performance your heads will transfer over to a new x-bolted 4.6 or 4.0 block
Matt
Also you'll need remap work when its all completed, don't just bump the fuel pressure up - its a bodge.
I'd reccommend buying the latest Des Hamill book about the RV8 'How to power tune the rover V8' as all this work is covered and he offers plenty of pointers on making it reliable as well as powerful.
Then once you're bored with the performance your heads will transfer over to a new x-bolted 4.6 or 4.0 block
Matt
350matt said:
I'd reccommend buying the latest Des Hamill book about the RV8 'How to power tune the rover V8' as all this work is covered and he offers plenty of pointers on making it reliable as well as powerful.
Looks v. interesting. Does he cover F.I. and it's associated components in any detail?
7/
the book is mostly about picking the right components and modifying parts to get the best reliability which can then be taken advantage of with more power.
He does cover Fuel injection although not in great depth, I found a few things of interest in it and I've been researching this engine for some years...
generally I'd reccommend it
Matt
He does cover Fuel injection although not in great depth, I found a few things of interest in it and I've been researching this engine for some years...
generally I'd reccommend it
Matt
Hi 350MATT, when you said about the camshaft do you know of one by number and make. As I have not re-built an engine for a good few years now I am out of touch with specifications. They have changed a lot over the years. Do I need to get the std ECU done or can I exchange it.
I have been quoted £450 for stainless manifolds. Is this good?
I have been quoted £450 for stainless manifolds. Is this good?
uglymug said:
Do I need to get the std ECU done or can I exchange it.
From my experience it will be well worth having a chat with Mark Adams about one of his Tornado ECU's and a day on a rolling road with him. Made a huge difference to mine, both outright power and the delivery and throttle response.
uglymug said:
I have been quoted £450 for stainless manifolds. Is this good?
Sounds about right.
like I said with the camshaft, ask around , engine tuners, other trev owners etc etc, it all depends on what you want from the torque curve / power delivery.
I'm running an Iskenderian 270 which is quite 'cammy' but gives peak power at 6000Rpm and still idles reasonably well, the 404 cam from V8 developments has a lot of fans and is available in hydraulic and mechanical forms. but may not suit the 3.5. do you want a revver or instant torque from idle?
you can't have both
Oh an 450 quid for stainless manifolds seems about right providing they're made from 321 or at least 301 steel
Matt
I'm running an Iskenderian 270 which is quite 'cammy' but gives peak power at 6000Rpm and still idles reasonably well, the 404 cam from V8 developments has a lot of fans and is available in hydraulic and mechanical forms. but may not suit the 3.5. do you want a revver or instant torque from idle?
you can't have both
Oh an 450 quid for stainless manifolds seems about right providing they're made from 321 or at least 301 steel
Matt
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