Ordering an American Speed Engine.
Discussion
Went out for a ride in the factory's 500 demo last Saturday - thanks Ted! 'That'll do' I thought to myself. Ted mentioned that the 550 383c.i. would be just as well mannered around town - so that's it decision made. Going for wet sump carb option (I like petrol smells).
Is there anything I need to take as a 'must have' from the options list - or will the turn key package do exactly what says on the tin?
It's a 12 week lead-time Gail says (is that a std Ultima leadtime - he,he!) so I wanna get the order in today.
Can anyone help?
Is there anything I need to take as a 'must have' from the options list - or will the turn key package do exactly what says on the tin?
It's a 12 week lead-time Gail says (is that a std Ultima leadtime - he,he!) so I wanna get the order in today.
Can anyone help?
Apologies for the hijack, and not wishing to take anything away from AS, but is there anything stopping you sourcing an engine elsewhere? Or is it the case that AS have carried out specific development on the SBC for the Ultima installation?
Just interested, as having scoured the Jegs/Summit/PAW catalogues, I can see that there are an awful lot of engine options available!
Cheers in advance,
slinky
587racing.com
Just interested, as having scoured the Jegs/Summit/PAW catalogues, I can see that there are an awful lot of engine options available!
Cheers in advance,
slinky
587racing.com
Hello Slinky.
Just said to myself from the beginning that I'd go factory spec or as close as possible. I'm not best placed to tell you what AS have done with regards to development with Ultima - but I do know if a turkey (whoops - Fruedian slip!!)Ultima package is good enough for the factory demos then it's good enough for me!!
Stick to what I (will) know - also springs to mind!
Your Ultima has a very long wheelbase , no?
LuckyP
>> Edited by LuckyP on Tuesday 25th October 13:39
Just said to myself from the beginning that I'd go factory spec or as close as possible. I'm not best placed to tell you what AS have done with regards to development with Ultima - but I do know if a turkey (whoops - Fruedian slip!!)Ultima package is good enough for the factory demos then it's good enough for me!!
Stick to what I (will) know - also springs to mind!
Your Ultima has a very long wheelbase , no?
LuckyP
>> Edited by LuckyP on Tuesday 25th October 13:39
AS have done a lot of work over time but the differences probably come down to things like:- The correct sump size, engine mounts, short shaft water pump. These are all to fit the Ultima chassis/engine bay.
Also coming out of work with Ultima is the high reving formula. This has proven to be the correct route for our light weight cars.
Most other stateside engine builders will have 'Torque Rules' tattoed on the inside of their eyelids so you will have to have a special build rather than what appears in the Jegs/Summit catalogue.
Steve
Also coming out of work with Ultima is the high reving formula. This has proven to be the correct route for our light weight cars.
Most other stateside engine builders will have 'Torque Rules' tattoed on the inside of their eyelids so you will have to have a special build rather than what appears in the Jegs/Summit catalogue.
Steve
I've a 383 (i.e. stroke lengthened 350 cu’in block) 470Hp American Speed "Torquer" model - has a wet sump and 750 cu’ft/min carb.
For a street engine it represents great value for money (bang for the buck) and goes like hell. However, if I’m honest, there is still room for more ‘go’, even on the road... also under heavy braking the wet sump suffers oil pressure loss (without an Accusump)
If I was to opt for a replacement engine and had more money to burn, I'd be tempted try a blueprinted 377 cu'in (400 cu'in block with standard 350 cu’in stroke) and 18 degree heads (I believe Brodix do nice ones that allow for standard 24 degree valve components?). I'd select a high lift cam that will give a lumpy (rather than rough) idle and probably opt for hydraulic lifters for simple maintenance (although I believe this would probably limit the upper operating revs to somewhere IRO 7000 RPM). Include a wet sump for sure.
Other items worth consideration…
To keep costs down, a straight carb job is OK; as Fuel Injection adds quite a lot of dough for not much more power. If retaining a carb, suggest looking at the new ‘electronic advance curve’ distributor units by MSD or Crane that have a vacuum attachment, This should help to tame a wild cam at tick over speeds and give better fuel consumption to boot.
Fuel Injection – Personally I’d go for Kinsler but there are a few reasonable makes out there.
Supercharging – love to try, but adds a large level of complexity and suggest best figured out up front; as to construct a long life street engine it requires top rate conrods, cranks and lowered compression pistons (~8:1 ratio). Suggest sticking to low boosts (7 psi) to avoid detonation for a street machine. Cooling in general may prove complex.
For a street engine it represents great value for money (bang for the buck) and goes like hell. However, if I’m honest, there is still room for more ‘go’, even on the road... also under heavy braking the wet sump suffers oil pressure loss (without an Accusump)
If I was to opt for a replacement engine and had more money to burn, I'd be tempted try a blueprinted 377 cu'in (400 cu'in block with standard 350 cu’in stroke) and 18 degree heads (I believe Brodix do nice ones that allow for standard 24 degree valve components?). I'd select a high lift cam that will give a lumpy (rather than rough) idle and probably opt for hydraulic lifters for simple maintenance (although I believe this would probably limit the upper operating revs to somewhere IRO 7000 RPM). Include a wet sump for sure.
Other items worth consideration…
To keep costs down, a straight carb job is OK; as Fuel Injection adds quite a lot of dough for not much more power. If retaining a carb, suggest looking at the new ‘electronic advance curve’ distributor units by MSD or Crane that have a vacuum attachment, This should help to tame a wild cam at tick over speeds and give better fuel consumption to boot.
Fuel Injection – Personally I’d go for Kinsler but there are a few reasonable makes out there.
Supercharging – love to try, but adds a large level of complexity and suggest best figured out up front; as to construct a long life street engine it requires top rate conrods, cranks and lowered compression pistons (~8:1 ratio). Suggest sticking to low boosts (7 psi) to avoid detonation for a street machine. Cooling in general may prove complex.
Guys
Since Donnington I'm not sure which way to move either with regards to engines. I was talking to a guy about them he told me to consider British American Engines. Apparently, they built an engine for an Ultima customer, after he had a failure from a US supplier and he now regulary uses Knockhill.
Since Donnington I'm not sure which way to move either with regards to engines. I was talking to a guy about them he told me to consider British American Engines. Apparently, they built an engine for an Ultima customer, after he had a failure from a US supplier and he now regulary uses Knockhill.
engines are a difficult subject you will always here bad stories about suppliers whether they are true or not.The only reason i did not have a american speed engine was that i could not afford one ,it created a lot of hard work in the initial build sorting out all the problems associated with supplying my own engine it would have been a lot less stressful using a am-sp unit .simon
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