storing vette for the winter, good idea?
Discussion
Just wondering weather or not its worth parking up the vette for a few months as i have access to another car (my dads), could this cause any probs to the car? does anyone on here do this to there cars for the winter? its just that i hate it getting so dirty with all this nasty weather which is set to get worse
chevy-stu said:
I just bought a 'proffesional so called breathing' car cover, abnd have noticed it holding moisture to the bodywork and taking far longer to dry out on the outside than if it wern't there. Any other experience before I give to the cats to rip shreds in.. ?
If you are going to use a car cover make sure you tie it tight,i used one once and where the wind got to it,even slightly,it acted as an abrasive and dulled the clear coat in places.
I would only use one as a dust sheet in a garage in the future,there as much use as the "Car bra" and a pile of shite.
Are you storing it outside or in a garage ?
If in a garage then fit a battery monitor like Accuguard or Accumate. No problems with storage then. Dust cover good idea, dehumidifier also a good move. I store my Vette like this (plus carpeted garage floor and lots of draft exclusion etc - sad git
)
If storing outside then again not a bad idea as it stops you having to drive it in winter salt, but I have to disagree about the car covers guys, I have one on my Escort and have had for over a year - and it looks like it has been stored in a garage. No paint damage whatsoever and very highly recommended. However, there is a big difference between a good cover and a bad one.
>> Edited by yellowvette on Tuesday 8th November 13:10
>> Edited by yellowvette on Tuesday 8th November 13:11
If in a garage then fit a battery monitor like Accuguard or Accumate. No problems with storage then. Dust cover good idea, dehumidifier also a good move. I store my Vette like this (plus carpeted garage floor and lots of draft exclusion etc - sad git
) If storing outside then again not a bad idea as it stops you having to drive it in winter salt, but I have to disagree about the car covers guys, I have one on my Escort and have had for over a year - and it looks like it has been stored in a garage. No paint damage whatsoever and very highly recommended. However, there is a big difference between a good cover and a bad one.
>> Edited by yellowvette on Tuesday 8th November 13:10
>> Edited by yellowvette on Tuesday 8th November 13:11
[quote] but I have to disagree about the car covers guys, I have one on my Escort and have had for over a year - and it looks like it has been stored in a garage. No paint damage whatsoever and very highly recommended. [/quote]
All I would say is that the Escort isn't fibreglass!
There is no doubt whatsoever in my mind that putting the cover on my car whilst it was outside was a major contributor to the increase in microblisters in my paintwork. These dry out a little in the summer but a couple have now burst necessitating a new paintjob.
I know that the cause of the microblisters is a badly prepared paintjob in the first place but nonetheless it did make things considerably worse!
All I would say is that the Escort isn't fibreglass!
There is no doubt whatsoever in my mind that putting the cover on my car whilst it was outside was a major contributor to the increase in microblisters in my paintwork. These dry out a little in the summer but a couple have now burst necessitating a new paintjob.
I know that the cause of the microblisters is a badly prepared paintjob in the first place but nonetheless it did make things considerably worse!
thanks for the replys all, ive decided to put it away from this Friday onwards, i got a basic garage its not heated or anything but it will keep the rain off, also bought the battery mainantence charger thingy from halfords so im ready to go!
Im planning on still taking it out on the weekends, as mentioned so i dont get any probs from it standing too long, but no trips to work for now, on the brighter side at least i will be saving on fuel by using my Dads car!
Im planning on still taking it out on the weekends, as mentioned so i dont get any probs from it standing too long, but no trips to work for now, on the brighter side at least i will be saving on fuel by using my Dads car!
eric the brave said:
[quote] but I have to disagree about the car covers guys, I have one on my Escort and have had for over a year - and it looks like it has been stored in a garage. No paint damage whatsoever and very highly recommended.
All I would say is that the Escort isn't fibreglass!
quote]
My front half and roof are factory steel body work, but rear is fibreglass so what do I think now !!!! Oh god, life's so hard sometimes. Where's my valium ????...............
eric the brave said:
All I would say is that the Escort isn't fibreglass!
There is no doubt whatsoever in my mind that putting the cover on my car whilst it was outside was a major contributor to the increase in microblisters in my paintwork. These dry out a little in the summer but a couple have now burst necessitating a new paintjob.
I know that the cause of the microblisters is a badly prepared paintjob in the first place but nonetheless it did make things considerably worse!
Actually Eric, yes : I believe that a cover can cause this in some instances. I know a guy who had a similar thing happen. Something to do with moisture on the inside of the panel bleeding through the fibreglass, I think a cover can stop some of the air flow that might have helped slow the process down. As you say, most blistering is the result of inadequate drying prior to spraying, but the problem can also be alleviated by painting the inside of the fibreglass with something like hammerite according to a GRP laminator friend of mine. This prevents moisture getting in from the back. If the glass hasn't been prepped and dried properly first though, this would actually make the problem worst. A very high quality, breathable cover still has to be a good thing though - proper evolution 4 fabric or similar - as it will stop bird s
t, tree sap and other atmospheric nasties getting to the paint. As an example, leave 2 vinyl decals out side for a few years, especially silver (don't ask me how I know this 
) one covered, one exposed, and you'll see the difference. Also, are the C4's actually fibreglass ? My '95 Z28 is mostly plastic, but I do mean plastic (or "composite" !) so doesn't suffer the same blister problem. Best possible outside solution is something like the exterior airflow "bubble", but in garage then a good quality dust cover and a decent de-humidifier should do it.
>> Edited by yellowvette on Wednesday 9th November 11:28
Over the past 15 years I have experience of storing cars for winter months and with it come a host of problems.
Mainly:
Battery (Even if its disconnected)
Fuel Gauges
Fuel Contamination
Tyres – Flat spots
Moisture ingress (Damp)
As to car covers I have tried them all some are better than others, the problem is that when you take the cover of you should get it cleaned each time as the inside can get contaminated with dust or grit and when you put it back on it acts like sandpaper, new covers are fine for the 1st time. I stopped using covers preferring to wash the dust of with hose when car was going to be used, otherwise you have the other job of washing car covers which is pain in A@~’*.
Some collectors keep them in a heated room with dehumidifier other use the Bubble Air cover, the following is suggestions for car storage from Classic Car site
• Make sure your gas tank is full. This will reduce the amount of water that can be absorbed by the gasoline and it also slows the rate at which it turns to varnish
• Freezing temperatures naturally dictate that anti-freeze be used. But even if it's not freezing, put it in. Many of the newer 'coolants' have excellent corrosion inhibitors that will help protect and lubricate your cooling system. A 50/50 anti-freeze/water mix is fine. Again make sure to run the car so it's mixed throughout the entire system.
• Change the engine oil. Dirty oil is contaminated with acids and water that can cause premature bearing failure and rust inside the engine. If the car is likely to be left for a very long period of time unattended, remove the sparkplugs and liberally squirt some form of 'upper-cylinder lubricant' into the cylinders before replacing the plugs. This will help stop the piston rings from rusting to the cylinder walls.
• Make sure the Brake and Clutch master cylinders are full of brake fluid. Brake fluid can absorb water very quickly. By reducing the exposed surface area of the fluid, the water absorption can be reduced. If you can, bleed the brake and clutch systems. It is recommended that you do this on an annual basis anyway, to purge the system of old and possibly contaminated brake fluid.
• To inhibit rust in the engine area, use a lubricant spray such as WD40 to coat all exposed metal surfaces. The volatile carrier in the WD40 will soon evaporate leaving a protective film on the hose clamps, coils, carb bodies etc. 'Wax-oyl' is also good, but you'll want to hose it off at a 'car wash' in the Spring.
• Wash the entire car and apply a good wax. Don't forget to clean the inside. Do this early in the day to give it plenty of time to thoroughly dry before putting it in storage.
• If you have a convertible top, leave it up and the windows and vents closed. A convertible top can develop nasty creases when folded for long periods, especially in cold climates. Treat Vinyl tops with Silicone or similar. Keeping the windows and vents closed keeps small creatures from entering. But buy some desiccant sacs from a storage supply house 'Dry Pac' for example and place them inside the car on the floors. This will keep moisture from damaging the interior if it is damp or humid where you are.
• Ensure that the boot is clean and dry, The boot seal is not always positive and some moisture can collect and condense in the inner fenders and floor. Air it out well for a day or so, then place a desiccant sac in here too before closing it up.
• Finally, take the car on a good 30 minute run. This will evaporate all the moisture in the exhaust and in the engine. Then park the car with the hand brake off and either 'chock' the wheels or leave it in gear if necessary. Over inflating the tires can help guard against flat spots. Disconnect the battery.
• The best thing to do for a stored car is to visit it once a month and take it for a short drive. This keeps everything in good shape, preventing things from getting corroded and seals drying out. At the very least have some one start it up periodically. If you are going to cover it use a proper Cloth car cover, not a Plastic one. If you find the concrete floor in your storage unit gets damp or 'sweats' use cat litter, or lay plastic beneath the car to prevent the condensation from reaching your floor pans.
So if I was you don’t bother storing it USE IT get the enjoyment, also if I added the depreciation whilst its sitting there it would make you cry.
Our Vet is used 365 smile days a year and its kept outside, for those that know the car I think you will agree it always looks great(Mind you I find cleaning car therapeutic, much more than washing car covers any day), also in the almost 3 years we have had it she has performed faultlessly.
Happy Motoring
Mainly:
Battery (Even if its disconnected)
Fuel Gauges
Fuel Contamination
Tyres – Flat spots
Moisture ingress (Damp)
As to car covers I have tried them all some are better than others, the problem is that when you take the cover of you should get it cleaned each time as the inside can get contaminated with dust or grit and when you put it back on it acts like sandpaper, new covers are fine for the 1st time. I stopped using covers preferring to wash the dust of with hose when car was going to be used, otherwise you have the other job of washing car covers which is pain in A@~’*.
Some collectors keep them in a heated room with dehumidifier other use the Bubble Air cover, the following is suggestions for car storage from Classic Car site
• Make sure your gas tank is full. This will reduce the amount of water that can be absorbed by the gasoline and it also slows the rate at which it turns to varnish
• Freezing temperatures naturally dictate that anti-freeze be used. But even if it's not freezing, put it in. Many of the newer 'coolants' have excellent corrosion inhibitors that will help protect and lubricate your cooling system. A 50/50 anti-freeze/water mix is fine. Again make sure to run the car so it's mixed throughout the entire system.
• Change the engine oil. Dirty oil is contaminated with acids and water that can cause premature bearing failure and rust inside the engine. If the car is likely to be left for a very long period of time unattended, remove the sparkplugs and liberally squirt some form of 'upper-cylinder lubricant' into the cylinders before replacing the plugs. This will help stop the piston rings from rusting to the cylinder walls.
• Make sure the Brake and Clutch master cylinders are full of brake fluid. Brake fluid can absorb water very quickly. By reducing the exposed surface area of the fluid, the water absorption can be reduced. If you can, bleed the brake and clutch systems. It is recommended that you do this on an annual basis anyway, to purge the system of old and possibly contaminated brake fluid.
• To inhibit rust in the engine area, use a lubricant spray such as WD40 to coat all exposed metal surfaces. The volatile carrier in the WD40 will soon evaporate leaving a protective film on the hose clamps, coils, carb bodies etc. 'Wax-oyl' is also good, but you'll want to hose it off at a 'car wash' in the Spring.
• Wash the entire car and apply a good wax. Don't forget to clean the inside. Do this early in the day to give it plenty of time to thoroughly dry before putting it in storage.
• If you have a convertible top, leave it up and the windows and vents closed. A convertible top can develop nasty creases when folded for long periods, especially in cold climates. Treat Vinyl tops with Silicone or similar. Keeping the windows and vents closed keeps small creatures from entering. But buy some desiccant sacs from a storage supply house 'Dry Pac' for example and place them inside the car on the floors. This will keep moisture from damaging the interior if it is damp or humid where you are.
• Ensure that the boot is clean and dry, The boot seal is not always positive and some moisture can collect and condense in the inner fenders and floor. Air it out well for a day or so, then place a desiccant sac in here too before closing it up.
• Finally, take the car on a good 30 minute run. This will evaporate all the moisture in the exhaust and in the engine. Then park the car with the hand brake off and either 'chock' the wheels or leave it in gear if necessary. Over inflating the tires can help guard against flat spots. Disconnect the battery.
• The best thing to do for a stored car is to visit it once a month and take it for a short drive. This keeps everything in good shape, preventing things from getting corroded and seals drying out. At the very least have some one start it up periodically. If you are going to cover it use a proper Cloth car cover, not a Plastic one. If you find the concrete floor in your storage unit gets damp or 'sweats' use cat litter, or lay plastic beneath the car to prevent the condensation from reaching your floor pans.
So if I was you don’t bother storing it USE IT get the enjoyment, also if I added the depreciation whilst its sitting there it would make you cry.
Our Vet is used 365 smile days a year and its kept outside, for those that know the car I think you will agree it always looks great(Mind you I find cleaning car therapeutic, much more than washing car covers any day), also in the almost 3 years we have had it she has performed faultlessly.
Happy Motoring
TEKWIZ said:
Over the past 15 years I have experience of storing cars for winter months and with it come a host of problems.
Mainly:
Battery (Even if its disconnected)
Fuel Gauges
Fuel Contamination
Tyres – Flat spots
Moisture ingress (Damp)
Get an Optimax or similar for the battery
there is something you add to the fuel to help prevent it from going off -Unleaded is sh1t compared to 4* and can leave varnish type deposits.
get a car lift and take some weight off the tyres
get a dehumidifier for the garage
But yes, best thing is to drive it but keep that salt off the wheels
Would add to TEKWIZ
clear out food crumbs and close everything; mice will use it as a winter hibernation area
be prepared to bleed the brakes next spring especially if you have dot 4
Personally I would jack the car up to take the weight off the tyres
I take the C3 for a 50 mile hard drive every two weeks definite until the salt goes down rather than store.
School of thought that you SHOULD empty the fuel but keeping it full is easier! My boat stays stored for 4 months and I keep the fuel filled, never had a problem
clear out food crumbs and close everything; mice will use it as a winter hibernation area
be prepared to bleed the brakes next spring especially if you have dot 4
Personally I would jack the car up to take the weight off the tyres
I take the C3 for a 50 mile hard drive every two weeks definite until the salt goes down rather than store.
School of thought that you SHOULD empty the fuel but keeping it full is easier! My boat stays stored for 4 months and I keep the fuel filled, never had a problem
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