Cooling system- help required

[B19 RUS]

Cooling system

Hi guys I am going to ask you for the benefit of your experience once again if I may. I do have the “bible” but you’re amassed knowledge will be valued if you can help. I have just bought the car and I am going to refill the coolant system.

The car is a Griff 500 pre serp without the expansion tank I have fitted a ¾ size front plate

• It gets to 90 degrees within 2 miles even at m/way speeds.

• Traffic sees 95 degrees and the fans only bring it back to 90 deg.

• Both fans work.

• The coolant mix looks/smells a bit weak (orangey colour)

My Plans

• Run radflush through the system.
• Clean swirl pot with a bottlebrush.
• Drain system as per the “bible”.
• Change thermo to 74 deg.
• Change otter to 74 deg.
• Refill with 50/50mix of water anti freeze inhibitor.
• Fit new fan belt.

Questions

• Any suggestions on process?
• Any suggestions on thermo and otter?
• Where do I get them?
• Any reqs on antifreeze brand?
• What is water wetter and does it work?
• Any benefit to force water through the system with a hosepipe?
• Where do I introduce the water to system, Top of rad or from header?

Thanks for any help in advance

[griffter]

B19 RUS said:

• The coolant mix looks/smells a bit weak (orangey colour)

Shouldn't it be blue?

[dnb]

Some is blue, some is pink. Never heard of orange antifreeze...

Sounds like you have a good plan. Check the rad carefully for leaks and corroded fins. The one I removed from ours looked awful - at least 1/3 of the fins had dropped off, and this was only visible from under the car. No wonder it didn't cool the thing!

Also check the temperature gauge (and otter switch) is working properly - you could be fixing the wrong thing.

Good luck.

I went through a similar thing last summer before the Growl. Our Griff now has the opposite problem to you - too much cooling!

[number 7]

Antifreeze is "usually" green or blue, although I've seen pre-mixed stuff for an MR2 which is red/pink. You can buy a cheap tester at Halfrauds which'll tell you how strong the mix is. 1/4 to 1/3 antifreeze to water is about right. Orange is a bit worrying, used to mean rust in iron blocks, so that obviously doesn't apply here. And theoretically use soft water to make the mixture, as hard water can lead to deposits in the waterways. Water Wetter breaks down the surface tension of the coolant and also (I think) prevents foaming, and is supposed to allow more effective transfer of heat to the coolant. I've used it and could just about see a difference on the gauge. Talking of gauges, how sure are you that its accurate. Only 2 miles to get up to temp seems a very short distance, especially at mway speeds. Thermostat sitcking / wrong rating? Does the rad. actually get hot?

[richb]

B19 RUS said:

• It gets to 90 degrees within 2 miles even at m/way speeds. • Traffic sees 95 degrees and the fans only bring it back to 90 deg. • Both fans work. • The coolant mix looks/smells a bit weak (orangey colour) My Plans • Run radflush through the system. • Clean swirl pot with a bottlebrush. • Drain system as per the “bible”. • Change thermo to 74 deg. • Change otter to 74 deg. • Refill with 50/50mix of water anti freeze inhibitor. • Fit new fan belt. Questions • Any suggestions on process? • Any suggestions on thermo and otter? • Where do I get them? • Any reqs on antifreeze brand? • What is water wetter and does it work? • Any benefit to force water through the system with a hosepipe? • Where do I introduce the water to system, Top of rad or from header? Thanks for any help in advance

Personally i wouldn't go down the route of fitting lower rated otter switch and thermostats and in any case 90 degs is about the correct running temp. By all means flush and refill the system but if you feel there is an overheating problem then you are better curing it rather than bodging it by fitting lower stats and switches. Why do you want to fit a new belt? The fans are obviously electric so that can't be the reason, what's your thinking here?

Personally I would flush the system, fit a new correctly rated stat and re-fill with coolant, make sure the heater valve is open when you re-fill. Also check the radiator many have a bleed valve at the top corner to get air out just like your home central heating system. Run it for a bit and then top up the system Rich...

[B19 RUS]

Hi there I was going to fit the new belt as it does turn the waterpump and they can slip without making the schreeching sound. I thought this would be good practice

[simon.b]

I seam to remember from the dim and distant past that some stuff would change colour if a head gasket was leaking etc. I don’t like the sound of Orange.

Sorry to be alarmist, but best have it checked,

Simon.

[B19 RUS]

Hi Simon

I really dont think its that as I have no other symptoms, I have contacted one of the guys that built the engines for TVR and he seems to think that this is just caused by weakening of the inhibitor solution and neglect basically. I will let you know how I get on. Russ

[GarryM]

Check to see if you have the little spoiler under the nose. It makes a very noticeable difference to cooling when on the move. The standard part is pretty cheap (£15ish?) and is fixed with rivets (which easily rip out if it hits something - like a sleeping policeman). There are home made affairs too. Do a search and you will see examples. I have fitted one made of plastic rainwater guttering!

To give an example of how effective they can be, mine fell off during a track day. Prior to that the car had been happy at 90deg. Within a few laps the temp rose to over 100deg, when I noticed it and came off the track by which time it had risen to near 110deg. Thankfully no damage done. I had fixed it on with silicon but obviously need to prepare the area better (or screw/rivet it on).

[mongoose]

Your temp of 90oC is too high for m/way speeds,especially at this time of year.I strongly suspect that the orangy coolant is rusty water,the rust coming from the insides of the steel coolant pipes,heater matrix etc,due to insufficent antifreeze being used.Its more than possible that the rust deposits have partially blocked your rad,making for the high temps your experiencing.I'd give the system a good flush as you suggest,and whilst empty i'd check the insides of the coolant pipes for corrosion and replace if necesary.Dont forget to backflush the heater matrix also,as a seperate item,as it wont flush out properly unless you do it on its own.This is easier than it sounds as you can disconnect the matrix pipes at the o/side of the engine.Refil with 50/50 antifreeze and distilled water(unless you live in a softwater area).
I wouldn't fit a 74oC stat,as there should be no need if all is well,particularly at this time of year.You'll only be masking a problem,possibly.

[b19 rus]

GarryM said:

Check to see if you have the little spoiler under the nose. It makes a very noticeable difference to cooling when on the move. The standard part is pretty cheap (£15ish?) and is fixed with rivets (which easily rip out if it hits something - like a sleeping policeman). There are home made affairs too. Do a search and you will see examples. I have fitted one made of plastic rainwater guttering! To give an example of how effective they can be, mine fell off during a track day. Prior to that the car had been happy at 90deg. Within a few laps the temp rose to over 100deg, when I noticed it and came off the track by which time it had risen to near 110deg. Thankfully no damage done. I had fixed it on with silicon but obviously need to prepare the area better (or screw/rivet it on).

I dont think I have one on my car, does anyone have a picture or is it in the bible?

[richb]

mongoose said:

Your temp of 90oC is too high for m/way speeds

Yes thst's true, the point I was making is that 90c is not by itself a cause of concern. I agree 80 on motorway is more normal.

[b19 rus]

mongoose said:

Your temp of 90oC is too high for m/way speeds,especially at this time of year.I strongly suspect that the orangy coolant is rusty water,the rust coming from the insides of the steel coolant pipes,heater matrix etc,due to insufficent antifreeze being used.Its more than possible that the rust deposits have partially blocked your rad,making for the high temps your experiencing.I'd give the system a good flush as you suggest,and whilst empty i'd check the insides of the coolant pipes for corrosion and replace if necesary.Dont forget to backflush the heater matrix also,as a seperate item,as it wont flush out properly unless you do it on its own.This is easier than it sounds as you can disconnect the matrix pipes at the o/side of the engine.Refil with 50/50 antifreeze and distilled water(unless you live in a softwater area). I wouldn't fit a 74oC stat,as there should be no need if all is well,particularly at this time of year.You'll only be masking a problem,possibly.

I think we have similar views here, I really am going to thoroughly flush both areas. The car has generally being well serviced but this might be this particular cars point of neglect. This info is great as its similar to what I was going to do anyhow, great tip re the matrix i would not have known this. Water is ok here as its soft about PH of 6.5-7 (I keep fish too)