Temperature gauge senders
Discussion
I've just boiled them up and plotted curves...
(Temperature in C on X axis and resistance in ohms on the Y axis)
Is it me or does the original Rangerover one saturate at about 90C (at atmospheric pressure)? The resistance curve looks about right, so the sensor is probably OK, but given the saturation point, I wouldn't want to use it to watch the coolant temperature!
It's a shame the TVR sender is in such a silly place for flow!
Now to work out the calibration I need for the temp gauge...
(Temperature in C on X axis and resistance in ohms on the Y axis)
Is it me or does the original Rangerover one saturate at about 90C (at atmospheric pressure)? The resistance curve looks about right, so the sensor is probably OK, but given the saturation point, I wouldn't want to use it to watch the coolant temperature!
It's a shame the TVR sender is in such a silly place for flow!
Now to work out the calibration I need for the temp gauge...

Seems that way... (I've definitely got the right sender! The ECU one has 2 pins.) I dug out my tests on the ECU temp sender and they are both the same on my car.
I just wish there was a way to get the sender properly in the coolant flow so it reads a sensible temperature. The Rover one was in a better place. Oh well, maybe I'll modify that bit as well as everything else...
I just wish there was a way to get the sender properly in the coolant flow so it reads a sensible temperature. The Rover one was in a better place. Oh well, maybe I'll modify that bit as well as everything else...

dnb said:
I just wish there was a way to get the sender properly in the coolant flow so it reads a sensible temperature.
The are several points in the inlet manifold that can be tapped for a temp sender, if any of yours are tapped with the right thread you could use them instead? Alternatively, when I redid the plumbing on mine I moved the ECU sender to the top hose, I guess you could do similar for the gauge sender as long as you give it an earth.
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