Is the thermostat working???
Discussion
Would the following be a safe assumption???
The car has been stood for a good few hours...engine stone cold...remove the swirl pot cap...start engine...if water comes through immediately surely this means the thermostat is stuck open.
I would assume that there should be no flow of water into the swirl pot until the water in the engine has warmed up sufficiently to open the thermostat???
The car has been stood for a good few hours...engine stone cold...remove the swirl pot cap...start engine...if water comes through immediately surely this means the thermostat is stuck open.
I would assume that there should be no flow of water into the swirl pot until the water in the engine has warmed up sufficiently to open the thermostat???
Yes, that's how it should work. However, you should expect to get a trickle of water through the stat because this design often doesn't seal perfectly, and some people drill extra holes in the stat to help bleeding which gives an extra artificial leak. But you should get no more than a trickle from stone cold, and if you get more than that it probably implies that the stat has failed.
i thought that was the case...shut when cold open when hot but also open when broke so you still had water circulating.
Anyway i think we all agree its knackered and wants replacing...!!!
Does anyone know the part number??? i gather it should be an 80deg one???
>> Edited by andy-w on Wednesday 16th November 08:38
Anyway i think we all agree its knackered and wants replacing...!!!
Does anyone know the part number??? i gather it should be an 80deg one???
>> Edited by andy-w on Wednesday 16th November 08:38
I did this a little while ago.
From memory, drain down, remove the swirl tank pipe and dizz cap to allow HT leads to be displaced.
Fairly easy to then remove two bolts.
Make sure the stat bleed valve is at the top when you put it all back.
Fit new gasket, replace cap and hose, refill and bleed.
Half hourish job without rushing.
I think there are more problems with thermostats (locked shut, locked open, not operating in correct range than owners are aware of).
This may be the cause of some of the runnng temp queries.
>> Edited by dlewis on Thursday 17th November 00:41
From memory, drain down, remove the swirl tank pipe and dizz cap to allow HT leads to be displaced.
Fairly easy to then remove two bolts.
Make sure the stat bleed valve is at the top when you put it all back.
Fit new gasket, replace cap and hose, refill and bleed.
Half hourish job without rushing.
I think there are more problems with thermostats (locked shut, locked open, not operating in correct range than owners are aware of).
This may be the cause of some of the runnng temp queries.
>> Edited by dlewis on Thursday 17th November 00:41
Ordered from TVR Gear ([url]www.tvrgear.com[/url])...pretty cheap £12.50 but i think most places are about the same. Definatel need it...the temp cauge didnt move on my way to work today!!!
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