Discussion
You need a type 069 or 072.
www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=73601&f=6&h=0&hw=072
www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=134384&f=6&h=0&hw=072
www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=203069&f=6&h=0&hw=069
Below is from TVRfreak/Joolz...if you are changing it yourself:-
Changing the Battery
What a nightmare!
Removing the airbox is easy enough, but hanging on to the nuts and bolts that come off and making sure they don't fall into some deep crevice in the engine is virtually impossible. Thankfully, I have one of those long magetic probes. Very handy. Another useful tip is to keep a shoebox in front of the engine compartment. You can put your
tools and nuts and bolts and bits that come off in here and they won't disappear into the engine (unless you overturn the box--don't ask!).
Once the battery is clearly visible, pay attention to how the cables are routed down the side of the battery. You might want to draw a rough diagram. This is really important!
Next comes the disconnecting-the-terminals-and-setting-the-alarm-off- repeatedly-and-trying-to-wrestle-the-battery-out bit. This step is virtually impossible. There's a huge bolt receptacle in the way. No matter how much you try to lever the battery up and over this, it doesn't seem to work. I finally managed to get a good hold on the bottom of the battery and with a back-wrenching heave, it gave.
My only criteria for the replacement battery was that it be the same or higher spec and a smaller size so I don't go through this again. I have padded it all around with thick neoprene strips so it doesn't bounce around, and then clamped it in place as best I could. When I hooked up the terminals, I managed to short the battery a few times. And I dropped the ratchet on the car and got two chips for my efforts. Anyways, I eventually managed to get the terminals hooked up and after the alarm had gone off for the 100th time, the car locked itself up. I got in using the secret method, opened the car up, decided to keep the keyfob outside the car, and went back to work.
Now then, where was I? Oh yes, time to put the airbox on and tighten up all the hose clamps. Easy enough. Final step was to put on the cover that goes under the bonnet. If you look, there's a flap on the battery side that slides in next to the battery. Well, it wouldn't slide in anymore because the damn battery cables were in the way!
Lots of fidgeting, loosening, tightening, rearranging later, after another 100 times of setting off the piercing alarm, I finally got this piece to go in properly. Finally it was time to close everything up, double check everything, and reset the ECU, and I was DONE. 2 hours flat including the trip to buy the battery ($62 for a nice, small Sears Die Hard one).
Having the following items helps *greatly*:
A long thin magnetic probe to fish out stuff that falls into engine;
Socket extensions to reach into the deep cavities;
Universal-joint adapters for ratchet;
Set of allen keys
Pair of pliers ;
Towels to cover wings of car with before starting any work;
A rag to cover the new battery terminals to avoid shorts.
>> Edited by kojak on Friday 18th November 20:27
www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=73601&f=6&h=0&hw=072
www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=134384&f=6&h=0&hw=072
www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=203069&f=6&h=0&hw=069
Below is from TVRfreak/Joolz...if you are changing it yourself:-
Changing the Battery
What a nightmare!
Removing the airbox is easy enough, but hanging on to the nuts and bolts that come off and making sure they don't fall into some deep crevice in the engine is virtually impossible. Thankfully, I have one of those long magetic probes. Very handy. Another useful tip is to keep a shoebox in front of the engine compartment. You can put your
tools and nuts and bolts and bits that come off in here and they won't disappear into the engine (unless you overturn the box--don't ask!).
Once the battery is clearly visible, pay attention to how the cables are routed down the side of the battery. You might want to draw a rough diagram. This is really important!
Next comes the disconnecting-the-terminals-and-setting-the-alarm-off- repeatedly-and-trying-to-wrestle-the-battery-out bit. This step is virtually impossible. There's a huge bolt receptacle in the way. No matter how much you try to lever the battery up and over this, it doesn't seem to work. I finally managed to get a good hold on the bottom of the battery and with a back-wrenching heave, it gave.
My only criteria for the replacement battery was that it be the same or higher spec and a smaller size so I don't go through this again. I have padded it all around with thick neoprene strips so it doesn't bounce around, and then clamped it in place as best I could. When I hooked up the terminals, I managed to short the battery a few times. And I dropped the ratchet on the car and got two chips for my efforts. Anyways, I eventually managed to get the terminals hooked up and after the alarm had gone off for the 100th time, the car locked itself up. I got in using the secret method, opened the car up, decided to keep the keyfob outside the car, and went back to work.
Now then, where was I? Oh yes, time to put the airbox on and tighten up all the hose clamps. Easy enough. Final step was to put on the cover that goes under the bonnet. If you look, there's a flap on the battery side that slides in next to the battery. Well, it wouldn't slide in anymore because the damn battery cables were in the way!
Lots of fidgeting, loosening, tightening, rearranging later, after another 100 times of setting off the piercing alarm, I finally got this piece to go in properly. Finally it was time to close everything up, double check everything, and reset the ECU, and I was DONE. 2 hours flat including the trip to buy the battery ($62 for a nice, small Sears Die Hard one).
Having the following items helps *greatly*:
A long thin magnetic probe to fish out stuff that falls into engine;
Socket extensions to reach into the deep cavities;
Universal-joint adapters for ratchet;
Set of allen keys
Pair of pliers ;
Towels to cover wings of car with before starting any work;
A rag to cover the new battery terminals to avoid shorts.
>> Edited by kojak on Friday 18th November 20:27
I got one of these http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=158...
for some reason this thread doesn't come up in the search facility. Worked well so far.
for some reason this thread doesn't come up in the search facility. Worked well so far.
Changing the Battery
What a nightmare!
Removing the airbox is easy enough, but hanging on to the nuts and bolts that come off and making sure they don't fall into some deep crevice in the engine is virtually impossible. Thankfully, I have one of those long magetic probes. Very handy. Another useful tip is to keep a shoebox in front of the engine compartment. You can put your
tools and nuts and bolts and bits that come off in here and they won't disappear into the engine (unless you overturn the box--don't ask!).
Once the battery is clearly visible, pay attention to how the cables are routed down the side of the battery. You might want to draw a rough diagram. This is really important!
Next comes the disconnecting-the-terminals-and-setting-the-alarm-off- repeatedly-and-trying-to-wrestle-the-battery-out bit. This step is virtually impossible. There's a huge bolt receptacle in the way. No matter how much you try to lever the battery up and over this, it doesn't seem to work. I finally managed to get a good hold on the bottom of the battery and with a back-wrenching heave, it gave.
My only criteria for the replacement battery was that it be the same or higher spec and a smaller size so I don't go through this again. I have padded it all around with thick neoprene strips so it doesn't bounce around, and then clamped it in place as best I could. When I hooked up the terminals, I managed to short the battery a few times. And I dropped the ratchet on the car and got two chips for my efforts. Anyways, I eventually managed to get the terminals hooked up and after the alarm had gone off for the 100th time, the car locked itself up. I got in using the secret method, opened the car up, decided to keep the keyfob outside the car, and went back to work.
Now then, where was I? Oh yes, time to put the airbox on and tighten up all the hose clamps. Easy enough. Final step was to put on the cover that goes under the bonnet. If you look, there's a flap on the battery side that slides in next to the battery. Well, it wouldn't slide in anymore because the damn battery cables were in the way!
Lots of fidgeting, loosening, tightening, rearranging later, after another 100 times of setting off the piercing alarm, I finally got this piece to go in properly. Finally it was time to close everything up, double check everything, and reset the ECU, and I was DONE. 2 hours flat including the trip to buy the battery ($62 for a nice, small Sears Die Hard one).
Having the following items helps *greatly*:
A long thin magnetic probe to fish out stuff that falls into engine;
Socket extensions to reach into the deep cavities;
Universal-joint adapters for ratchet;
Set of allen keys
Pair of pliers ;
Towels to cover wings of car with before starting any work;
A rag to cover the new battery terminals to avoid shorts.
>> Edited by kojak on Friday 18th November 20:27[/quote]
Changing the Battery
What a nightmare!
Removing the airbox is easy enough, but hanging on to the nuts and bolts that come off and making sure they don't fall into some deep crevice in the engine is virtually impossible. Thankfully, I have one of those long magetic probes. Very handy. Another useful tip is to keep a shoebox in front of the engine compartment. You can put your
tools and nuts and bolts and bits that come off in here and they won't disappear into the engine (unless you overturn the box--don't ask!).
Once the battery is clearly visible, pay attention to how the cables are routed down the side of the battery. You might want to draw a rough diagram. This is really important!
Next comes the disconnecting-the-terminals-and-setting-the-alarm-off- repeatedly-and-trying-to-wrestle-the-battery-out bit. This step is virtually impossible. There's a huge bolt receptacle in the way. No matter how much you try to lever the battery up and over this, it doesn't seem to work. I finally managed to get a good hold on the bottom of the battery and with a back-wrenching heave, it gave.
My only criteria for the replacement battery was that it be the same or higher spec and a smaller size so I don't go through this again. I have padded it all around with thick neoprene strips so it doesn't bounce around, and then clamped it in place as best I could. When I hooked up the terminals, I managed to short the battery a few times. And I dropped the ratchet on the car and got two chips for my efforts. Anyways, I eventually managed to get the terminals hooked up and after the alarm had gone off for the 100th time, the car locked itself up. I got in using the secret method, opened the car up, decided to keep the keyfob outside the car, and went back to work.
Now then, where was I? Oh yes, time to put the airbox on and tighten up all the hose clamps. Easy enough. Final step was to put on the cover that goes under the bonnet. If you look, there's a flap on the battery side that slides in next to the battery. Well, it wouldn't slide in anymore because the damn battery cables were in the way!
Lots of fidgeting, loosening, tightening, rearranging later, after another 100 times of setting off the piercing alarm, I finally got this piece to go in properly. Finally it was time to close everything up, double check everything, and reset the ECU, and I was DONE. 2 hours flat including the trip to buy the battery ($62 for a nice, small Sears Die Hard one).
Having the following items helps *greatly*:
A long thin magnetic probe to fish out stuff that falls into engine;
Socket extensions to reach into the deep cavities;
Universal-joint adapters for ratchet;
Set of allen keys
Pair of pliers ;
Towels to cover wings of car with before starting any work;
A rag to cover the new battery terminals to avoid shorts.
>> Edited by kojak on Friday 18th November 20:27[/quote]
Mick -were you having a bad day that day
Mines a 72 and I seem to remember it say 600ah cranking power. Still spinning up nice and quick during the cold morning (touched wood oo er.)
If you end up getting one from Halfrauds they do a range with a 4 year guarentee. About 15% more expensive than the 3 year ones. I've got one on my Nissan Patrol which is allso a 4.2 engine. Best thing is with halfords is if the battery ever dies, take it in with your receipt even after 3 years 11 months and 30 days and 99% of the time they will swap it for a brand new spangly one.
I'll go and see what the patrol one is as it might be a 72 as well.
Scott
If you end up getting one from Halfrauds they do a range with a 4 year guarentee. About 15% more expensive than the 3 year ones. I've got one on my Nissan Patrol which is allso a 4.2 engine. Best thing is with halfords is if the battery ever dies, take it in with your receipt even after 3 years 11 months and 30 days and 99% of the time they will swap it for a brand new spangly one.
I'll go and see what the patrol one is as it might be a 72 as well.
Scott
This means nothing to me, but again, this is from TVRfreak/Joolz
www.tvrfreak.com./
Amp hours 70ah
Reserve capacity 110mins
Din Equiv. 57072
CCA sae 590 amps
Iec 390 amps
CCA Din 385 amps
>> Edited by kojak on Friday 18th November 21:47
www.tvrfreak.com./
Amp hours 70ah
Reserve capacity 110mins
Din Equiv. 57072
CCA sae 590 amps
Iec 390 amps
CCA Din 385 amps
>> Edited by kojak on Friday 18th November 21:47
kojak said:
You need a type 069 or 072.
Indeed it is one of these, but as i found out to my chagrin one cold long frosty day, there are different shapes, and a regular dealer does not neccesarily know this. Make sure you take your old one along and make sure the new one is exactly the same in terms of shape and size
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