What Do You Get If You Cross An Isuzu Trooper With A Wedge?
Discussion
Ouch! 
My 400SE nearside rear and yes (before anyone asks)
MY TROOPER TOO!!
Look it was bit foggy, thats my excuse alright!
The hood was down and I just happend not to notice the 2.5 Tonne LWB Trooper (which I parked earlier
) behind me as I was reversing into one of my parking bays, doh!
Still its been made temporarily better for the meantime and is back on the road already
My 400SE nearside rear and yes (before anyone asks)
MY TROOPER TOO!!
Look it was bit foggy, thats my excuse alright!
The hood was down and I just happend not to notice the 2.5 Tonne LWB Trooper (which I parked earlier
) behind me as I was reversing into one of my parking bays, doh! Still its been made temporarily better for the meantime and is back on the road already
Steve, Thats NO WAY to treat a 400, still it didnt look too bad yesterday even with the Dulux one coat gloss paint job 
and yes them Troopers are VERY hard things I had one up to a year or so ago 3.1 TD LWB 230k miles and Its still going strong.
>> Edited by badredwedge on Monday 21st November 13:49
and yes them Troopers are VERY hard things I had one up to a year or so ago 3.1 TD LWB 230k miles and Its still going strong. >> Edited by badredwedge on Monday 21st November 13:49
Backed my estate out of the garage a couple of months ago. Trouble is I forgot to open the garage door! Car was fine - garage door not...
In the wedge my fear is that when taking the roof off you have to open both doors, and if you try and reverse out of the garage without shutting the passenger door first.... I know the car will come off worse.
Hope you get yours fixed soon
regards Bob
In the wedge my fear is that when taking the roof off you have to open both doors, and if you try and reverse out of the garage without shutting the passenger door first.... I know the car will come off worse.
Hope you get yours fixed soon
regards Bob
AM400 said:
Ouch!
Sorry to see the damage Steve but I guess those spare lights that you brought from me will come in handy!
Andy
It must have been fate, when I bought those off you Andy, I came over to West Mids TVRCC meet yesterday in case you were there just to show you. As for fibreglass repairs, Wedgie, having our own boat building workshop has its uses, sometimes!
Broke it on Friday, Fixed it on Saturday Driving it Sunday!
Steve
What filler are you using there ? And have you any success with it not cracking ?
As I'm trying to sort out the stress cracks by headlamps. Started by reinforcing the back, then grinding out 1/4 inch swathe about 3/4 wide but need to find a suitable filler that wont crack on me - unlike the last one I used
Cheers
Paul
What filler are you using there ? And have you any success with it not cracking ?
As I'm trying to sort out the stress cracks by headlamps. Started by reinforcing the back, then grinding out 1/4 inch swathe about 3/4 wide but need to find a suitable filler that wont crack on me - unlike the last one I used
Cheers
Paul
If you really want to get rid of the stress cracks around the lights, you're gonna need something better than filler. I've just put a new front on my car following a crash, and I had LOADS of cracking to sort out. The areas that I just ground out and filled over have cracked again in a matter of weeks, coming straight through my nice new paint.
Since then, I have sought expert advice! You need to lightly grind away the surface of each crack, probably an inch or on so each side of the crack, and probably about 2-3mm deep into the fibreglass. Then, the only way to stop them coming back is to get some tissue fibreglass matting, and gel a couple of layers over each crack. Let it set over night, sand it down, and then finish with a fine filler. Plastic Padding Ultima is what I used and yielded some really good results. Just putting the matting on the underside of the crack will not stop the cracks from re-appearing.
At least with a wedge, when you come to repaint the front, there are some good places to mask up. You can remove the side stripe on the front wings, and spray everything from this point up, including the flat panel where the badge is. Put a new side stripe on over the paint join to disguise it. Probably saves a lot of money as you don't have to have the entire front end sprayed.
Dan.
Since then, I have sought expert advice! You need to lightly grind away the surface of each crack, probably an inch or on so each side of the crack, and probably about 2-3mm deep into the fibreglass. Then, the only way to stop them coming back is to get some tissue fibreglass matting, and gel a couple of layers over each crack. Let it set over night, sand it down, and then finish with a fine filler. Plastic Padding Ultima is what I used and yielded some really good results. Just putting the matting on the underside of the crack will not stop the cracks from re-appearing.
At least with a wedge, when you come to repaint the front, there are some good places to mask up. You can remove the side stripe on the front wings, and spray everything from this point up, including the flat panel where the badge is. Put a new side stripe on over the paint join to disguise it. Probably saves a lot of money as you don't have to have the entire front end sprayed.
Dan.
What I did after my bin incident was to grind off the raggy bits behind the impact area, line up the edges then rebuild with mat and resin. Then chop out the gel side, rebuild with P40 chopped mat/ resin, then top off with P38. Minor details were filled with cellulose putty as they showed up in the primer.
Then I ran out of good weather and work stopped...
Then I ran out of good weather and work stopped...
gsx600 said:
Steve
What filler are you using there ? And have you any success with it not cracking ?
As I'm trying to sort out the stress cracks by headlamps. Started by reinforcing the back, then grinding out 1/4 inch swathe about 3/4 wide but need to find a suitable filler that wont crack on me - unlike the last one I used
Cheers
Paul
Hi Paul not guaranteeing this will not re-crack but-
I have just made a running repair - until such time as I can spare the wedge for a week or so to get it done properly - but I have removed all damaged and ripped glass before rebuilding about a 10" area behind the cracks with around 5 layers of 450 grm chopped strand mat this has made the whole area much stiffer than original (the whole area needs a thorough clean an keying before applying glass this should help the "flappy bits" to stick to the new glass thus preventing vibration at the edges of the repairs and, I hope, future cracking?
Then the outside has been filled with a structural adhesive/filler we use called Crestomer 1186 from Scott Bader then final fairing with Norpol Superfine Polyester filler.
Hope this all makes sense?
Gandalf said:
Ouch
But it's great news you could sort it out so quick
P`raps I should look into having some rear stainless nudge barsmanufactured & fitted - from the replies it sounds as though there may be a bit of a market with wedge owners!
or maybe this
www.mydadstoys.co.uk/PedalCars/PedalCars.htm
WRT to polyester fillers these can be found in most motor factors e.g. UPOL and Isopon
This might be of useas well:
www.gibbs111.fsnet.co.uk/grp.htm
This might be of useas well:
www.gibbs111.fsnet.co.uk/grp.htm
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