headlamp resealing
Discussion
Hi
I'm looking to reseal my headlamp in the wings. I'm just looking for a few tips on the best way to seal them cleanly. I'm very concerned about making them look good as they would stand out like a sore thumb if I cock'um up!
I found this thread on cleaning inside them which for some people meant removing them.
www.pistonheads.co.uk/gassing/topic.asp?t=76757&f=9&h=0&hw=headlamp
but theres very little info on the best way of resealing. in the thread there is the mention by griff430
but i can no longer find these tech tips? any help would be good..cheers
I'm looking to reseal my headlamp in the wings. I'm just looking for a few tips on the best way to seal them cleanly. I'm very concerned about making them look good as they would stand out like a sore thumb if I cock'um up!
I found this thread on cleaning inside them which for some people meant removing them.
www.pistonheads.co.uk/gassing/topic.asp?t=76757&f=9&h=0&hw=headlamp
but theres very little info on the best way of resealing. in the thread there is the mention by griff430
griff430 said:
http://go.to/tvrbristol
then go to 'members pages' -> 'Clives Tech tip'
but i can no longer find these tech tips? any help would be good..cheers
The critical seal is the one between the perspex and the pod - not between the perspex and the body. Although mine is sikaflex'd to the max between body and perspex, flies and dust still find their way in because they're not properly sealed between perspex and pod. The only way to re-do that seal is to take 'em apart I'm afraid...
Or did you mean getting a neat seal between perspex and body?...
Or did you mean getting a neat seal between perspex and body?...
griffter said:
Or did you mean getting a neat seal between perspex and body?...
yeah thats the thing... mine are quite clean inside although the lamp lenses do need a clean. Its the sikaflexing to the body.
People say to mask the perspex but how is it best to achieve the desired shape, with straight tape? and then get it common left to right so the sikaflex bead is uniform around the joins??
I think the simple answer is get someone else to do it??? but that cheating.. and more importantly expensive..
VSP90 said:
I need to do mine too ! The sealant around the covers has got cracks in it. Best product to use and any tips would most be welcome.
I think Sikaflex is the product to use.. normal silicone will do but I don't think it looks as good or last as long.. but its the how to get it looking right thats worrying me..
It's a little while now since I did mine. I used an auto' black silicon instead of sikaflex. It's much easier to get off should you ever do it again and it was recommended by an expert. I masked around the body and the pod with (hundreds of!) tiny bits of tape to get the desired shape.
The really tricky bit is supporting the pod in the right place when the pod is first inserted and the silicon/sikaflex has not yet bonded. I used a longish piece of cardboard, inserted it through the hole in the wheel arch (where the lamp/bulb is accessed) and "propped" up the front of the pod with this until the silicon had set. You can then remove the prop. After this you can put a very neat bead around the join between pod and car body. It's fiddly because you're working through the lamp hole in the wheel arch which is too small to get your hands/arms through. I seem to remember losing a bit of skin off my knuckles and forearms!
Edited to add: I suspect that dust & debris getting into the pod is probably via the back of the lamp rather than the seal between perspex cover and pod. Very little you can do to prevent it apart from make sure the rubber boot thingy is replaced properly and any obvious gaps sealed.
>> Edited by GarryM on Friday 2nd December 14:55
The really tricky bit is supporting the pod in the right place when the pod is first inserted and the silicon/sikaflex has not yet bonded. I used a longish piece of cardboard, inserted it through the hole in the wheel arch (where the lamp/bulb is accessed) and "propped" up the front of the pod with this until the silicon had set. You can then remove the prop. After this you can put a very neat bead around the join between pod and car body. It's fiddly because you're working through the lamp hole in the wheel arch which is too small to get your hands/arms through. I seem to remember losing a bit of skin off my knuckles and forearms!
Edited to add: I suspect that dust & debris getting into the pod is probably via the back of the lamp rather than the seal between perspex cover and pod. Very little you can do to prevent it apart from make sure the rubber boot thingy is replaced properly and any obvious gaps sealed.
>> Edited by GarryM on Friday 2nd December 14:55
It's an easy job once you have done it a few times. I used black insulation tape and an avition solvent called "lo odour solvent" (lots of thought went into the name!)
I will do it for you if you fancy driving over. Have done lots and achieved perfect results every time, I wouldn't use silicon though. Sikoflex is the stuff.
I will do it for you if you fancy driving over. Have done lots and achieved perfect results every time, I wouldn't use silicon though. Sikoflex is the stuff.
I did mine recently to change the headlights from LHD to RHD.
On mine the clear was held to the coloured by an odd assortment of screws whose heads prevented the pod sitting up close to the opening. All these were replaced with small countersunk screws to give a flat top to the pod mating surface. There was also quite a lot of old silicone stuck under the opening in the body so make sure you clean all this gunk off too.
Lots of bits of tape and black windscreen sealant as Garry M said. I supported mine on some wood blocks and a longish lever that I tied weights on to make sure it pushed the pod up into the opening. Put some largish blobs in, manoeuvre the pod so its alignment is correct and stop it from turning by using long strips of masking tape across the pod and onto the body. Its quite slippery and will slowly turn if you don't. Also put a good pad of silicone at the front under the tip and allow to set.
Then the final bead can be applied a la bathroom sealant but I used Mineral Turps rather than Meths. Remove the hundreds of pieces of tape before the sealant has set and clean the whole area with Turps, stand back and admire. Don't fiddle with a little here and there because you'll have to do the bead again. The bead can be wiped with turps to get an even finish but a smooth non-stopping action is required.
Shouldn't take more than a couple of days.
Peter B
On mine the clear was held to the coloured by an odd assortment of screws whose heads prevented the pod sitting up close to the opening. All these were replaced with small countersunk screws to give a flat top to the pod mating surface. There was also quite a lot of old silicone stuck under the opening in the body so make sure you clean all this gunk off too.
Lots of bits of tape and black windscreen sealant as Garry M said. I supported mine on some wood blocks and a longish lever that I tied weights on to make sure it pushed the pod up into the opening. Put some largish blobs in, manoeuvre the pod so its alignment is correct and stop it from turning by using long strips of masking tape across the pod and onto the body. Its quite slippery and will slowly turn if you don't. Also put a good pad of silicone at the front under the tip and allow to set.
Then the final bead can be applied a la bathroom sealant but I used Mineral Turps rather than Meths. Remove the hundreds of pieces of tape before the sealant has set and clean the whole area with Turps, stand back and admire. Don't fiddle with a little here and there because you'll have to do the bead again. The bead can be wiped with turps to get an even finish but a smooth non-stopping action is required.
Shouldn't take more than a couple of days.
Peter B
Cheers guys
Thanks for the tips.. how long does the headlamp fairing need to be held in place whilst the sikaflex in curing? and whats the best type of sikaflex to use?? I've had a search on the web and there's loads of types? I presume the standard 291 would be the way to go cos it does need anything more special??
Chris
Thanks for the tips.. how long does the headlamp fairing need to be held in place whilst the sikaflex in curing? and whats the best type of sikaflex to use?? I've had a search on the web and there's loads of types? I presume the standard 291 would be the way to go cos it does need anything more special??
Chris
I found that by positioning the light pod in place and then tightening the aluminium support bar nuts was enough to hold it in the correct position. I had to put a few washers between the aluminium bar and light pod stud to correctly position the fairing. I did notice that there was a screw at the front end of the pod opening (screwed up through the indicator moulding recess) I think to support the front of the pod.
OZstyle
OZstyle
The only support mine had was a little vertical strap at the rear where the bulb goes in. I was wondering if there should be anything else, or is that what you mean, OZstyle?
I wasn't using Sikaflex but the stuff I used cured in 6 - 8 hours.
griffsmith said:
how long does the headlamp fairing need to be held in place whilst the sikaflex in curing?
I wasn't using Sikaflex but the stuff I used cured in 6 - 8 hours.
Yeah,
that's what I mean, vertical strap/support bar same thing, mine is quite substancial a few mill thick, could not bend it for adjustment. That and the sealant is all that holds the light pod in position. Once the pod was manouvered back into its opening I fixed the top of the aluminium strap to the stud at the back of the pod first, on one side I put some washers on the stud to push the pod forward for adjustment. Then loosly fixed the bottom of the aluminium strap to the bodywork, I adjusted the pod into position (bottom of the strap is sloted so allows up and down movment) then tightened up the bottom strap fixing (nut and slot headed bolt on my car) which held the pod in place ready for sealant. It is a bit tricky as you have to get a spanner on the nut and screwdriver on the head to tighten, I found I coud hold the spanner on the nut and still adjust the pod with one hand and tighten the bolt with the other. For sealant I used "Silastic" (100% silicone rubber)- I'm in Australia so after 1 hour the outer surface had gone off - packet says 4mm deep cured in 24 hrs, full bond 7 days, used turps soaked cloth to smooth over the silastic. I did not drive the car for a few days so to let the silastic cure.
Hope that helps,
OZstyle.
that's what I mean, vertical strap/support bar same thing, mine is quite substancial a few mill thick, could not bend it for adjustment. That and the sealant is all that holds the light pod in position. Once the pod was manouvered back into its opening I fixed the top of the aluminium strap to the stud at the back of the pod first, on one side I put some washers on the stud to push the pod forward for adjustment. Then loosly fixed the bottom of the aluminium strap to the bodywork, I adjusted the pod into position (bottom of the strap is sloted so allows up and down movment) then tightened up the bottom strap fixing (nut and slot headed bolt on my car) which held the pod in place ready for sealant. It is a bit tricky as you have to get a spanner on the nut and screwdriver on the head to tighten, I found I coud hold the spanner on the nut and still adjust the pod with one hand and tighten the bolt with the other. For sealant I used "Silastic" (100% silicone rubber)- I'm in Australia so after 1 hour the outer surface had gone off - packet says 4mm deep cured in 24 hrs, full bond 7 days, used turps soaked cloth to smooth over the silastic. I did not drive the car for a few days so to let the silastic cure.
Hope that helps,
OZstyle.
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