Working on the 944 S2
Discussion
Well I'm cracking on with the car, doing all the jobs that the previous owner failed to do.
Some bits are expensive but some are now becoming reasonable.
I've whipped off the left rear half shaft and had it rebuilt with two new CV's by engineering firm, £85 +vat, Not bad!!
Just fitting today, rear brake discs, and got the pair from Lancaster Porsche for £118 + vat. Not bad!!
I now hear that my biggest fear of the alloy wishbones bushes going, has been transformed by design911.uk knocking out polly bushes for a reasonable cost !!
So I'm a bit happier to work on it now without breaking the bank.
Porsche (lancaster) are happy to work with me and discount some of the parts which makes you feel better. They are helpful, but with 2 visits, have managed to get the wrong parts twice! I've only had the car for about 6 weeks and it would appear I know more about it than they do.I assume that they have limited knowledge on older cars, Mine being an 89 S2 cabrio is old by modern standards.
The problem with getting the wrong bits seems to be due to the very poor manuals they have on the 944, and being an S2 seems to cause them even more problems.
I managed to get an Electronic workshop manual off ebay which includes the 16v engine and other S2 parts for £3.99 + post.it is still difficult tralwing through to find things out, but its a bargain !!!
If anyone needs info from the manual, just let me know.
PS, am I the only idiot that does any work on the car.
gadgit.
Some bits are expensive but some are now becoming reasonable.
I've whipped off the left rear half shaft and had it rebuilt with two new CV's by engineering firm, £85 +vat, Not bad!!
Just fitting today, rear brake discs, and got the pair from Lancaster Porsche for £118 + vat. Not bad!!
I now hear that my biggest fear of the alloy wishbones bushes going, has been transformed by design911.uk knocking out polly bushes for a reasonable cost !!
So I'm a bit happier to work on it now without breaking the bank.
Porsche (lancaster) are happy to work with me and discount some of the parts which makes you feel better. They are helpful, but with 2 visits, have managed to get the wrong parts twice! I've only had the car for about 6 weeks and it would appear I know more about it than they do.I assume that they have limited knowledge on older cars, Mine being an 89 S2 cabrio is old by modern standards.
The problem with getting the wrong bits seems to be due to the very poor manuals they have on the 944, and being an S2 seems to cause them even more problems.
I managed to get an Electronic workshop manual off ebay which includes the 16v engine and other S2 parts for £3.99 + post.it is still difficult tralwing through to find things out, but its a bargain !!!
If anyone needs info from the manual, just let me know.
PS, am I the only idiot that does any work on the car.
gadgit.
they seem to have the same pictures on the screen that I've got on the Electronic manual and the pictures of the upper part of the engine in these files is not detailed enough to show all the temperature sensors and senders.
they told me that the front temperature sensor with the click on connector was for the guage, I told them it was part of the ECU information, but they would not have it.
Even the mechanic tried to convince me this was the write one.
I found out on the net, pelican Parts in america, that the rear one, the big brass one is for the temp gauge.
They still could not confirm this on there computer, so they have just ordered the other part they thought was the one I wanted.
If they don't get it right this time, I'll order one from somewhere else.
I'm trying to use porsche parts as I do most of the work myself and want to keep a good log of receipts to show that its been done properly.
This car has a full history from porsche and specialists, but proves that this can mean nothing if the work is not completed properly.
gadit.
they told me that the front temperature sensor with the click on connector was for the guage, I told them it was part of the ECU information, but they would not have it.
Even the mechanic tried to convince me this was the write one.
I found out on the net, pelican Parts in america, that the rear one, the big brass one is for the temp gauge.
They still could not confirm this on there computer, so they have just ordered the other part they thought was the one I wanted.
If they don't get it right this time, I'll order one from somewhere else.
I'm trying to use porsche parts as I do most of the work myself and want to keep a good log of receipts to show that its been done properly.
This car has a full history from porsche and specialists, but proves that this can mean nothing if the work is not completed properly.
gadit.
basil brush said:
I can highly recommend Bert at Berlyn Services for genuine and oem parts by mail order. Very good prices and excellent service, although it's a while since I had the 944.
Absolutely, I've used Bert for years.He has a vast amount of experience and knowledge of Porsche's. My first stop online for parts and advice. Good bloke.
You are certainly not the only one. I have had my S2 coupe for around six weeks and have had to change the usual engine mounts and a few seals. The pas pump needs rebuilding some time but it is too cold and wet to get it off at the moment.
In my experience Porsche dealer parts are generally quite fairly priced, better than some off the independants. I did have to quote the part number to them to persuade them that the pump rebuild kit existed though.
Don't be put off the independants though they are great for more obscure parts.
Porsche shop will sort you out with the temp sender. I had a 2.7 one from they last year, they are exactly the same.
In my experience Porsche dealer parts are generally quite fairly priced, better than some off the independants. I did have to quote the part number to them to persuade them that the pump rebuild kit existed though.
Don't be put off the independants though they are great for more obscure parts.
Porsche shop will sort you out with the temp sender. I had a 2.7 one from they last year, they are exactly the same.
Studog, Keep me informed how you are going along.
Just finished the rear discs this afternoon. Not to bad to do !
I've just got a couple of final niggles to sort out. The car has a small Clonk in the clutch area, and is a bit sloppy with take up. Feels a bit loose underneath as if there's play on the drive shaft.
What was the effect of the engine mountings you did. Did it have a simular feel with yours. this could be my problem ?
The clutch itself works fine and bites straight away, no problems. Goes into gear lovely, so advice on my problem would be appriciated.
many thanks to all.
gadgit.
Just finished the rear discs this afternoon. Not to bad to do !
I've just got a couple of final niggles to sort out. The car has a small Clonk in the clutch area, and is a bit sloppy with take up. Feels a bit loose underneath as if there's play on the drive shaft.
What was the effect of the engine mountings you did. Did it have a simular feel with yours. this could be my problem ?
The clutch itself works fine and bites straight away, no problems. Goes into gear lovely, so advice on my problem would be appriciated.
many thanks to all.
gadgit.
Engine mount faliure usually gives vibration at tick over and a rough noise. The exhaust side one gets cooked and then the manifold sits on the steering shaft. Despite what you may hear it can be changed at home, provided you have some ramps and a trolley jack. I did it twice on my previous one too.
The feeling you are getting sounds a bit like the clutch centre breaking up. They have aq rubber cush drive where other cars have springs. If the rubber goes soft the fingers that sourround it have some play to take up (usually with a clunk)before drive engages. If the clutch operation is otherwise fine I would leave it as a clutch change is around £7-800 at an independant. Unfortunately you have to drop the gearbox and propshaft which in my book makes it quite an awkward job for a home mechanic.
It might be worth a look at Euro car parts web site too when looking for bits.
Atb Stu
The feeling you are getting sounds a bit like the clutch centre breaking up. They have aq rubber cush drive where other cars have springs. If the rubber goes soft the fingers that sourround it have some play to take up (usually with a clunk)before drive engages. If the clutch operation is otherwise fine I would leave it as a clutch change is around £7-800 at an independant. Unfortunately you have to drop the gearbox and propshaft which in my book makes it quite an awkward job for a home mechanic.
It might be worth a look at Euro car parts web site too when looking for bits.
Atb Stu
Yes Stuart, thats what I thought it might be.
I hoped that an engine mount might have the same effect but I suppose I new it could be that in the back of my mind.
Still, I have buggeted for this so its not a problem, I knocked the chap downd nearly a grand on the price, just in case.
gadgit.
I hoped that an engine mount might have the same effect but I suppose I new it could be that in the back of my mind.
Still, I have buggeted for this so its not a problem, I knocked the chap downd nearly a grand on the price, just in case.
gadgit.
You can tell if it's the clutch center by getting underneath and trying to turn the torque tube through the hole in the bell housing. If it turns at all then the cush drive is goosed. If so, I wouldn't leave it too long as the clunking is from it running on the metal 'get you home' stops and once they snap off you have no drive.
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